mlc240z

Ok, finally got a couple of pics of what i have. kinda crappy, but you should be able to see the tin foil thin metal i'm talking about. they're shaped with a soft radius and don't look homemade, just beat up. pass side is torn, driver side looks like it was trimmed at some point. the texture of the liner (not a coating, paint or undercoating) is like a hammered metal.

redoing my rear suspension now and am SO glad i tripped over this thread. noticed the powdered residue of the old strut bushings and figured something was missing. ordered the bushings this morning. just cleaning up the insulators and repainting/reusing the originals. one question, i assume the poly strut bushings need to be greased to prevent squeaks. Is this correct?

huh, that's weird. both sides, attached to thin welded (original looking) brackets. always seemed like real thin cheesy metal. maybe PO added.

they're behind the inner fender "liner". don't know the correct name for this piece of thin metal but it goes from in front the tire to the top and is held in by a few screws. BTW (trying to find replacements if anybody can help direct me) remove the bottom screws and you should be able to see the bumper end fasteners.

Just get ready to spend a lot of time freshening up everything under the hood. the ZT carbs look SOOOO damn good, it'll make everything else look shabby by comparison. big difference in idle and smoothness of engine, and my original carbs ran pretty well. probably some of the best money i've spent on the Z

Gary, that's seems really affordable to me. what condition was your bumper originally in? on mine PO had painted them to match car and to cover rust pitting. i'm thinking even used body filler from the looks of it. do you have to do all the prep or will they straighten and grind? i'd love to get my bumpers rechromed but know they need work and i'm not sure if what i do will only make it worse/harder to finish. thanks

don't know if it's been posted before but in case anyone runs into it. bought Nissan replacements for dome light door switches (both are 2 wire). drivers side 2 wire easy, plug 'n play. exactly as original. passenger side on my 5/71 240z was only 1 wire. replacement switch had two wires. apparently Black Dragon ships same part for both sides. made adapter to plug in female to female what i assumed was hot wire (+) to connector (center post conductor). assumed ground wire would not be needed since body of switch would be grounded by contact with frame (like OEM). left the wire attached to body of switch (-) dangling. shut pass door, light stays on. unplug wire to center lead, tape off center lead, plug in ground lead (attached to body of switch). shut door, dome light goes out. sorry Enrique and Dave (Zs-ondabrain). yes, i am an electrical idiot.

double check bleeding order. if i'm not mistaken, seem to remember reading that driver's side rear is actually the longest line, then pass rear.