mlc240z

OK, I give up. What is year/make/model of that "or" car? Kinda looks like a "Steve McQueen" 275 GTB4 I love it.

You originally said the engine ran fine. Which car did it run fine in? Did it start to screw up when you transplanted it into a 240Z? Could it have something to do with the 240 tach and wiring? Sorry, not knowledgeable enough about the electronics but have read of issues with the older tachs.

Zedyone, coincidentally was just reading your old rebuild thread. Not the first time you had issues with that dizzy. Why not just try going back to your original Pertronix for now?

Bought and installed front and rear from MSA. Easy install, decent fit and does stiffen the ride. Definitely feels tighter, but then I don't track, just weekend driver. For the money, they work for me. If you're running track days, then I can see the advantage of the triangulated bars.

No, the worst that can happen is if you don't go away, we will taunt you a second time....... That was for you, LeonV (from one old Python fan to another) jcb, please share. We've all been guilty of some bonehead 'duh' moments. You'd be surprised how many people will say, 'yea, I did that once too.' Think of it as a public service.

If none of the suggestions resolve the issue (and it prob will), I believe Dave Irwin (Zs-ondabrain) still does the rebuild of the switch. Dave created most of the conversions for the headlights, turn-signal, etc. that MSA sells and does quality work.

If you're not needing a Nissan part, Rock Auto has 3 that are OEM replacements from $28-$39 (same cylindrical shape to fit the bracket). Also listing a Beck-Arnley that doesn't look like an OEM cylinder, but has what looks to be a brand new ballast resistor. From the site pic it looks very much like the stock resistor if you want to refresh that.

From reading on the site, the ballast resistor was put in place to lower the voltage thru the points on the running engine to prolong the life of the points. The start circuit sends full voltage to get the engine running but shifts (ignition switch "run") thru the resistor after start to prevent premature wear of the points. Assuming stock coil output, of course.

I might know where you can get rid of that old rear sway bar and links. :-)

Welcome to the dizeaze! Use the search, plenty of solid experienced info here.

Also, when you rebleed the system, start at left rear then right rear. On the Z, the left rear is actually the furthest from the master.

Sounds like a Type A 4spd, probably original. You'll need to either bend into more of an S shape or use a Nissan competition shifter. Search the site, many more threads with more detailed info than I can provide.

For a full resto, no. It's gonna be off the road for a while. For a refresh, I think it's a balance that needs to be struck. Phases, definitely. But when I did the brakes, it was total package, rotors, calipers, drums, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, new drum spring kits. Same for suspension, shocks, springs, spindle pins, bushings, frt wheel bearings, paint and rust remediation. Only thing missed was rear bearings. Interior likewise. Fuel's next with tank refurb, hoses, sending unit, filler neck, etc. Each phase is followed by a few months or season of driving to enjoy. I don't know, but for me there's something of peace of mind to the idea that I know it's fully (or to the best of my ability) done and I'll prob never have to touch it again. Based on the number of miles per year, except for repairs, shouldn't have to go back to it unless I want to modify or upgrade. Cross it off the list. Handle it once.

Rock Auto has them for about $14 each.

Trico 11-601 check the thread here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/36207-replacement-washer-fluid-pump-how.html

After 55 years, I don't get too shocked by someone's passing, even family. This one hurt. After following this site for the last 9 years, E was the man when you needed detailed, step by step instructions, advice and all around Z knowledge. I've used his bodywork experience and guidance to solve my problems and to make me confident enough to tackle jobs I would never even consider doing. Never met him (wish I had), but as others can attest, if you read his posts, you 'knew' him. He was an honest man, gave his opinion without an ego infusion, and truly loved the Z and all of his Z family. It came thru in his posts. I'll treasure the memory of making him spit coffee on his cat after a smart-*ss post. Gentlemen, we have lost a true national treasure of Z knowledge and as far as I can tell, a good person.

Seriously not gloating, but mine came out "reasonably" easy.....no press or extraction tool. Not a rust free car either. Soaked the cr*p out of them for a week with PBlaster and then drove out with a drift pin. Highly recommend the advice to keep spraying and moving the pin back and forth to spread the lube. Patience will be rewarded.

Dave, talked to you on the phone a long while ago (you were taking the girls (Sorry, ladies by now) out to the movies) but still took the time to give some clarification on your headlight harness upgrade. Truly enjoyed the conversation, the great advice and felt an "instant kinship" as a relatively new member of the Z brotherhood. Sooo glad you got this squared, you have too much knowledge to contribute and after all these years, you're too much like family to let go. BTW, right after I read the post it reminded me to pony up so I sent the site a donation to help keep this site alive and help Mike out.

Didn't Arne run into this same problem? Believe it wound up being Pertronix dwell or something along those lines. I could definitely be wrong, tho.

I found some silver/aluminum duct sealing tape at Ace, applied and cut to size with an exacto knife. Definitely not chrome, more of a polished aluminum look but it is consistent and doesn't look toooo shabby. Better than the chrome with blue gaps. So far has worn well, and the roll was about $5 with plenty left over in case a redo is necessary in the future.

From what I can see, that almost looks like a Porsche (928?) rear end.

Old adage is "New doesn't necessarily mean good". Sucks you had to go thru all that to find out, but glad you solved it.

Very quick (about 30-45 mins total) to make and in quantity can last for a lot of single meals. Boil up a pound of spaghetti, linguini or angel hair. Saute an onion in butter, when carmelized add a little olive oil and just lightly saute a couple of cloves of chopped garlic (don't burn it gets bitter). Open up the cabinet and douse with every spice you can find or think would blend with what you have. I use paprika, a lot of oregano, fresh ground pepper, red pepper flakes, thyme, parsley, dill etc. After heating up, I add a bag of frozen chopped spinach I've boiled up (although works with just about any frozen vegetable you prefer). I add cooked shrimp or gas/charcoal grilled chicken tenders, cut them up into bite sized pieces and add to heat thru. Add extra olive oil to the mix, amount to add depends on how "wet" you want it, I prefer a little on the dry side. Drain the pasta and then mix a layer of pasta back into the original pot (cuts down on the pot cleanup), a coupla large spoons of the mix and a coupla shakes of parmesan, then another layer, repeat until all pasta/mix is gone. Add a loaf of good French or Italian bread and butter, you're in heaven and if anyone is sharing, they'll think you're a gourmet cook. Increase the quantities for a larger group. Gotten a lot of compliments for such a simple dish.

You could try lightly tapping on the thermo housing, might get lucky and un-stick the thermostat. But plan on changing because this is a classic symptom of a stuck thermostat

How about mounting a mirror on the plug side? Maybe just with a spring clamp that you could adjust for optimal viewing from the carb side.