mlc240z

EXACTLY! you earn the respect of 'Sir', it's not automatically granted with age. bart

i've just bought Duplicolor DE 1621 Old Ford Blue to touch up the engine. i searched here and found this is recommended as the closest match to the original engine color. when i sprayed it on smog pump brackets, it seems 'too' blue and much, much brighter than the oem color. even taking into account 30+ years of fading. anyone else get this? is this truly the original color or did i just get a badly mixed batch?

my hat's off to you, sir. you are wise beyond your years. bart

if pressure is locking the lifters, how about popping the valve cover off while the engine is running? don't know what kind of oil splash you would get with an internally oiled cam but some sort of shield could be fabricated. just try to confirm what's actually happening. you might be able to see the lack of lift or excess of lift of the valves as the engine started to die. bart

is it possible you haven't done the "initial" valve adjustment yet? i had to 'adjust' the hydraulic valves on a '72 camaro i owned when i had a lot of miles on it and noticed a lack of oomph. basically the procedure was set it at tdc and then check only certain (intake/exhaust) valves. then rotate the cam to the next position the manual called for and adjust the other valves. adjustment involved spinning the valve stem with your fingers and tightening the rocker post nut until it just stopped. sorry for the vague description but it was over 20 years ago and i just followed the procedure in the manual. might not be the same exact procedure with your Z, but there's got to be some kind of initial adjustment when you put the head on the car.

try these on ebay, euro bumpers(?). might be what you're looking for. don't know your price range tho'. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-240-Z-NEW-NOS-FRONT-EURO-JDM-BUMPER_W0QQitemZ8003381247QQcategoryZ6763QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-NEW-NOS-JDM-Z-240Z-280Z-EURO-CHROME-FRONT-BUMPER_W0QQitemZ8004230765QQcategoryZ6763QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem bart

welcome aboard!!! filthyllama sounds like a Monty Pythton reference. bart

it caught me too. but i think he's referring to how in some cars (old fords and chevy's i think), when one lamp blows out the others in the circuit will still light. they just won't blink. so say if right front turn signal lamp blows, the inside indicator and the rear lamp will show a constant light but won't allow the flasher to work, killing the blink. bart

bean, no need to be sorry, i was tickled by the Zvirus 33 years ago and finally 'welcomed' the full blown infection in 11-04. bart

now i know i'm infected with the Z virus, cause i actually understand this sentence. sorry to intrude, bart

welcome, she's a beauty.

this looks like the stuff my PO put on mine, same profile. doors and hatch closed ok. i replaced the hatch seal with VB since i didn't like the look of this replacement. not enough lip to cover the ends of the interior vinyl and i wanted to make sure no air/exhaust fume leakage. i can't comment on air leakage on doors (not on the road yet) but upon detailed inspection with light, it seems to give a complete seal. bart

can't help with the pics but i've been slowly redoing my engine compartment for a couple of months now. every part i touch gets some kind of treatment right down to nuts, bolts and washers. with most parts i've been just removing them, cleaning them up with either carb cleaner, paint thinner, lacquer thinner (whatever solvent works). i use a wire brush (various sizes) and toothbrushes to get grease and dirt off. then i hit them with a wire wheel (bench grinder mount and power drill), dremel and/or sandpaper. small parts like bolts, flanges, brackets respond to wire wheel rust removal but you will lose just about all of the cadmium plating. starter, smog pump, fan clutch etc, i partially disassembled, cleaned, relubed and repainted. i hit the aluminum with a clear enamel to help slow down oxidation and preserve the 'clean' look. braided hoses are scrubbed with detergent and if faded, i've tried hitting them with paste shoe polish. there's probably a better way and i don't know how long it will last, but looks ok for now. it's time consuming as hell, definitely not concourse, but definitely an improvement since i started. have a lot of patience, don't rush it and enjoy the "wow's" you get when you pop the hood and people expect to see 30+ years of crud and rust. hope this helps bart

thanks Zdreamer, that's the one. i thought it was too low, mine's placed only 1 1/2" above the point. time to make a move and replace. bart

sounds like a divorce case to me, poor schmuck probably doesn't even know she's trying to sell it out from under him.:cross-eye

need someone with an originally placed hood ornament (in the holes) to do me a quick favor. i need the measurement from the point of the hood to the bottom of the ornament. the PO had bondoed the holes and attached the ornament with tape and it just doesn't look like it's in the right spot. since he did a lousy bodywork job and the nose of the hood 'droops', it looks even worse. i need to know if it's the bodywork or the placement of the ornament. thanks in advance, bart

betcha it's much more than crack!!!

i hate you............ looks great, lots of luck bart

follow beandip's sequence and they should pop off. i used to use Liquid Wrench to unthaw frozen threads and thought it worked pretty well. then i read about PBBlaster here and decided to give it a try. that stuff's more valuable than gold or platinum. it flows into the threads so much better and i have yet to bust a bolt (or my nuts). highly recommended.

this may be a dumb question, but hear me out. in trying to keep the stock look, i wonder if instead of an airdam, the addition of the splash pan to redirect the incoming air would prevent or help prevent some of the lift? i know most drivers say high speed will cause the front end to get squirrelly. if it's because the incoming air is getting trapped under the hood causing the lift and if a little of that air could be blocked......... even maybe the addition of vented inspection lids (there goes the stock look) just to give an air outlet to reduce the pressure and subsequent lift. i know some owners use them to lower underhood temps by providing an outlet. or is the lift generated from some other factor?

i recently bought the pro-kit, 6305.140, but haven't installed yet. just got off the phone with them to verify. 6305.001 is for the front. 6305.202 is for the rear. by the way, they are installed so the eibach logo is right-side up and readable so the closer coils are at the top. bart

i used a very soft bristled toothbrush. soaking the part in a mild dish detergent solution (warm not hot water) for 15 mins to help loosen the crud seemed to really help. i avoided any harsher cleaners (gojo, formula 409, fantastik, etc) so as not to loosen the bond of the inlaid paint. i also tried adding a little bleach, very little, to the solution and was quite satisfied with the results. bart

i prefer a good vise, less 'wham' marks on the ujoint cups:classic:. definitely a do-it-yourself type of job.

go to another shop! $10.64 ea @ www.rockauto.com $14.04 ea @ Motorsport $12.95 ea @ Victoria British $?????? @ your local NAPA or auto part store. if you don't know how to replace them, you could pay for labor. hope this helps, bart

enrique, a dozen is addicted. 15 is obsessed, demented and possessed!!!! ITSAV6, welcome, you've come to the right site to fulfill your fetish. and after 15 Z's you should be a welcome addition to the knowledge base, bart