mlc240z

Bruce, if you go, I'll do myself harm! You're too valuable. Bounce, follow the suggestions on the leakdown and maybe buy a new compression tester for peace of mind.

Listen to Bruce! Even if only one is bad (Master (about $35) or slave (about $20)) replace both. They're relatively cheap. Seems to be the norm that replacing only one will cause the other to fail in short order. Probably because the increased movement/throw of the new part will force the old to travel past the point it used to. This will cause it to run past the predetermined 'good' part of the cylinder and force it into the crud/rust that has built up. Just a matter of time until the crud ring ruins the seals of the old unit causing bypass leaks and eventual failure. Besides, if the system is down anyway.........................why not replace it all for about $60 and scratch it off the list of things to worry about in the future. Hell, replace the flexible line too ($10) while you're at it.

As with any venture into items possibly never removed in 39+ years, get into the habit of spraying everything in the area with something like PBlaster or Kroil the night/days before. Believe me, life will be good if you're patient and do this beforehand. When I refreshed the rear on mine, the 10 mins PB'ing everything the day before I planned on working on them paid me back tenfold in ease of removal and lack of snapped fasteners. It's definitely worth the prep.

Granted, John. Just finished 'refreshing' the rear suspension (bushes, struts, springs etc) and would have done the repositioning if I had all the parts (no moustache bar). Just figured I'd mention it if Wilson had all parts available to fix the issue. Kinda a 'While I'm at it" thing.

For the rear suspension, I believe you have to change the moustache bar, longer driveshaft and reverse the diff mount. I'm pretty sure the late '72-73 is when they made this modification to eliminate the vibration from the high half-shaft angles. I'm sure someone can correct me if my mfg dates are wrong.

Dealt with them in the past, had good experience. Had delay in shipping when he went on vacation, but that was the only thing I can say negative about him. Products good and he apologized a million times.

http://www.gas-tank.com/ I'm leaning towards this place the more I think about it. Don't have any obvious issues yet, since the PO supposedly had the tank boiled out but.....

What is this obsession with douching???!!! But what he said.

Agreed. But that car looks to be in really good shape, despite the stripe. If I had a Jones for the car, I'd factor in the cost of the repaint.

You don't want to pry too much since you don't want to distort the pan. Could make it harder to seal up later. Have you tried a wood chisel to ease it apart? The angle of the point will help to lever it apart. The wider, the better to distribute the stress on the pan flange. Just take it easy with gentle taps, don't force.

Yea, Steven I hear you. After we replaced EVERYTHING in the car (trans, Ujoints, distributor, etc etc) she ran pretty good and was a VERY reliable, economical car. Station wagon was very versatile since it moved us from apartment to apartment and then some. Actually liked it during the '70's oil 'crisis'.

So that's what Summer's Eve is really for! Definitely agree, anytime a part is removed on one of the old beauties for some ungodly reason, definitely seize the opportunity to clean the 'wizz/crap' out of it!

Seem to remember reading somewhere here on the site that the conversion to relays drawing power directly from the battery will cause the meter to show charging more than stock alternator/wiring setup. Don't know why (Dave jump in here). Better performance, less strain on the switches and fuse box, but higher charging shown when running thru relays.

Wife had a Pinto (yea, I know) that would bang like hell if you slowly took off from a stop. If you floored it (whoa, the power!), not a peep. Turned out the Ujoints were shot. Definitely different noises based on different conditions/scenarios.

Good for you! If those are stacked ANSA tips on the exhaust, and in good shape, I am really jealous.

I picked up the Battery Tender Plus at Amazon for $46/free shipping.

Wow, that looks nasty. Looks like a crack is beginning on the opposite outboard side too. Piece doesn't look that rusted, and not bent from someone trying to forcibly remove. Metal fatigue? I don't know but I'd be curious to find out what caused it.

Something similar happened with mine. Left it on for a couple of days and it still wouldn't green light. Battery was NOT drained. Thought I got a bad unit. Put my regular battery charger on overnight to 'top off' the battery. Reattached the tender the next night, and it went to green and haven't had a problem since. Multiple re-attachments over past 3 months. From what I read, if the battery is below a certain level (I think 80% ??) of charge the electronics basically turn the Tender off. It's not designed to be a 'battery charger', just a maintainer. Once it detects that the battery is above its baseline charge it will operate normally. I have a Battery Tender Plus. Don't know if this applies to all models/brands.

Are they done yet? Are they done yet? Are they done yet? Sorry, caffeine just kicked in.

Sequence on a 240Z is driver's rear, pass rear, pass front, driver's front. Unlike most other cars.

I'll second that. Looks like it's leaking and getting 'spun' onto the underbody by the driveshaft at the front universal joint.

Bustin' my balls, bustin' my balls......................

Oh, damn! Gonna have to edit my signature again!

Dave, PayPal payment sent to prepay.

Bent rim?