240ZX

Well, I'd have to say those cats now only have 8 lives left! Isn't it ironic how close maximum fun and disaster are to eachother! Tom

You might want to take a look at a recent post "Mesh Wheels".

Easy Arne, I'm not saying you shouldn't be prepared. I agree about being prepared.......I just happen to choose a cell phone. So, do you keep an extra hard drive next to your CPU? Tom

Just out of curiousity, when was the last time any of you all had a flat tire? I personally can't remember having a flat tire in over 30 years....maybe just lucky or maybe just paying attention!!? I also run no spare tire in my 240Z....with 17" wheels. Tom

Assume Z!!!! Boy, that one of the sweetest Z's I've ever seen.....buy it before someone snatches it up. Wait a minute, April fools day was 10 days ago!

Man, that is so unfortunite.......right in the prime of life. Vickie, my heart goes out to you. Hang in there Vickie!!! We are all pulling for you. Sincerely, Tom Whitaker (240ZX)

There is also the Pertronics conversion that many seem to like. Originally I intended to do the ZX dizzy upgrade to my 240 but everyone I came across was pretty worn...the bearing plate assembly always seems to be shot as well as the mechanical advance mechanism. Maybe just my luck!!? Anyway, I decided to go with the Mallory UniLite. Purchased it from Summit Racing for approx $350.00 (with vac adv). It's worked flawless ever since the 240 was put back on the street in 2002. And, besides working flawlessly, it certainly has a lot of HRC!!! (High Rate of Coolness) Tom

As a recommendation, I suggest you research the basics of engine building/modification so you gain an understanding of why and what one can do to their engine. No one particular modification is the secret answer but a combination of the right mods that make a strong engine. And, depending upon your application, modifications will vary. There are modifications, other than the engine, that will make your Z quicker.......light weight flywheel, different tranny, different differential gearing, etc., etc. Tom

The purpose of the foil layer is to reflect heat. Using the kind without should be OK as long as it is not subjected to alot of heat....such as one might encounter when using it in the engine compartment. But if it damps out sound and its free, use it.

Just use a roll-up door!

If you are changing the ball joint, don't forget to also change out the steering knuckle joints (tie rod joints) as well. Plus you may want to replace the rubber coupling on the steering shaft with a urethane unit. All these items can cause undesireable steering trates when they become worn. And yes you can do this job in your own garage without too much trouble. Hope this help you a little. Tom

Victor, I've heard the same things about the Centerforce clutches however, I've been running a Centerforce II in my 240Z for nearly 5 years now and without any issues.......although I consider myself to be pretty easy on clutches (no holeshot start at least). I'll have to take a look at the Daikin units. Tom

Here's my rant.......no turn signals, cell phone abusers, idiots merging onto the fwy at under the speed limit, tailgaters!!! I'm a SoCal driver and to sum it all up....a vast majority of drivers are just basicly clueless, not just about driving but, with life in general! I live in a town with many residents from the way south and I warn friends of mine who come to visit me to be extra careful when driving in town. I swear to gawd, I've seen more than once, one of these boneheads will be in a lefthand turn lane, with left turn signal on, and when the light turns green the idoit turn right.....as Carlos Mencia puts it.....da-ta-da's. I firmly believe that if you could investigate the life of these people, you would discover they are just as much a da-ta-da on or off the roads. The sad part is that most of these people will never get to read these posts........because they probably can't read!!!!!!!!:stupid: :stupid: :stupid: P.S. Remember, it's all about me.....right???

I believe any of the three you mentioned will handle the L6 however, I suggest an engine stand that is stable, rolls around under load fairly easy, and will allow you to rotate the engine without a stability issue. Just my 2 cents! Tom

I'm confussed now....first you say the COT looks rice, which I know you don't like, and now you say you don't have anything against the looks!?? Hmmmmmmmmmm, which is it TomoHawk???

So, let me see if I understand your post correctly.... you basically just don't like the looks of the COT cars. Looks are so subjective anyway! Keep looking at the COT cars....you'll get used to it...just like everyone else will! And as someone once said...its not so much what you race but, rather the race itself. Tom

Jeff, As a suggestion, purchase a service manual. It will provide you with most of the answers you are looking for. Tom

So whats knew about NASCAR car not being stock :stupid: Have you all been sleeping under a rock? Shoot,they're pretty much a spec racer if you ask me. From what I understand, and this is above and beyond all the safety improvements, the sanctioning body is trying to change the cars to simply provide better racing! If you look closely at the front of the COT NEXTEL Cup cars, the front is almost identical to the front of the trucks, splitter and all....interesting how developement from the ranks filters around!? IIRC the COT cars are heavier than the last design as well. Change is usually a good thing....time will tell. I know I haven't watched any less NASCAR races due to rule changes! Just my take on it. Tom

I have s/n HLS3002126 (3/70), and it has steel units.

Whatever you plan to do to the radiator, and I would suggest having it recored, remember that the coolant passages inside the engine, including the water pump, are going to look just like the photo you provided of the radiator. Tom

Certainly not a restored car. Even the paint job doesn't do it justice....if you look really close at the photo of the hatch/240Z tag you can see what appears to be either orange peel or just poor prep work. And as we all know, photos tend to hide all sorts of imperfections. Did anyone notice the broken off or missing grease zert on the drivers side steering rod joint....there is one on the other side however! Basically......a set of new wheels and paint job do not warrant the asking $10K start bid. Why can't people just be honest about what they are attempting to sell???

I've had a heart beat for 55 years and counting! Yep, the 240Z was just being introduced when I was a lad in high school....drove a 1965 Mustang back in the day! Tom

WHITE.....It's beautiful and easiest to keep looking clean. Like they say.....Once you go white, you know its right! And, it doesn't matter what color your interior is! If the day ever comes, mine is going back to white. Tom

Yep, these babies are cold blooded and starting does take a bit of cranking. The procedure I subscribe to for starting is as follows. (I have an electric fuel pump only and I have converted to electronic ign) (1) Pull the choke all the way back. (2) Crank the engine over a couple of rotation and then turn the key to off. (3) Crank the engine again and it fires every time. (4) And as was mentioned by Beandip, push the choke forward to achieve and idle rpm of approximately 1000 rpm and let her warm up. I believe it take a period of time for the fuel/air mixture to get into the cylinders, when it's been sitting for long period of time....hence the cranking exercise! Just my 2 cents worth! Tom

Walt, Have you tried searching the archives yet? Lots of great info! Also, have you purchased a service manual....which has this info? Tom