240ZX

Victor, I've heard the same things about the Centerforce clutches however, I've been running a Centerforce II in my 240Z for nearly 5 years now and without any issues.......although I consider myself to be pretty easy on clutches (no holeshot start at least). I'll have to take a look at the Daikin units. Tom

Here's my rant.......no turn signals, cell phone abusers, idiots merging onto the fwy at under the speed limit, tailgaters!!! I'm a SoCal driver and to sum it all up....a vast majority of drivers are just basicly clueless, not just about driving but, with life in general! I live in a town with many residents from the way south and I warn friends of mine who come to visit me to be extra careful when driving in town. I swear to gawd, I've seen more than once, one of these boneheads will be in a lefthand turn lane, with left turn signal on, and when the light turns green the idoit turn right.....as Carlos Mencia puts it.....da-ta-da's. I firmly believe that if you could investigate the life of these people, you would discover they are just as much a da-ta-da on or off the roads. The sad part is that most of these people will never get to read these posts........because they probably can't read!!!!!!!!:stupid: :stupid: :stupid: P.S. Remember, it's all about me.....right???

I believe any of the three you mentioned will handle the L6 however, I suggest an engine stand that is stable, rolls around under load fairly easy, and will allow you to rotate the engine without a stability issue. Just my 2 cents! Tom

I'm confussed now....first you say the COT looks rice, which I know you don't like, and now you say you don't have anything against the looks!?? Hmmmmmmmmmm, which is it TomoHawk???

So, let me see if I understand your post correctly.... you basically just don't like the looks of the COT cars. Looks are so subjective anyway! Keep looking at the COT cars....you'll get used to it...just like everyone else will! And as someone once said...its not so much what you race but, rather the race itself. Tom

Jeff, As a suggestion, purchase a service manual. It will provide you with most of the answers you are looking for. Tom

So whats knew about NASCAR car not being stock :stupid: Have you all been sleeping under a rock? Shoot,they're pretty much a spec racer if you ask me. From what I understand, and this is above and beyond all the safety improvements, the sanctioning body is trying to change the cars to simply provide better racing! If you look closely at the front of the COT NEXTEL Cup cars, the front is almost identical to the front of the trucks, splitter and all....interesting how developement from the ranks filters around!? IIRC the COT cars are heavier than the last design as well. Change is usually a good thing....time will tell. I know I haven't watched any less NASCAR races due to rule changes! Just my take on it. Tom

I have s/n HLS3002126 (3/70), and it has steel units.

Whatever you plan to do to the radiator, and I would suggest having it recored, remember that the coolant passages inside the engine, including the water pump, are going to look just like the photo you provided of the radiator. Tom

Certainly not a restored car. Even the paint job doesn't do it justice....if you look really close at the photo of the hatch/240Z tag you can see what appears to be either orange peel or just poor prep work. And as we all know, photos tend to hide all sorts of imperfections. Did anyone notice the broken off or missing grease zert on the drivers side steering rod joint....there is one on the other side however! Basically......a set of new wheels and paint job do not warrant the asking $10K start bid. Why can't people just be honest about what they are attempting to sell???

I've had a heart beat for 55 years and counting! Yep, the 240Z was just being introduced when I was a lad in high school....drove a 1965 Mustang back in the day! Tom

WHITE.....It's beautiful and easiest to keep looking clean. Like they say.....Once you go white, you know its right! And, it doesn't matter what color your interior is! If the day ever comes, mine is going back to white. Tom

Yep, these babies are cold blooded and starting does take a bit of cranking. The procedure I subscribe to for starting is as follows. (I have an electric fuel pump only and I have converted to electronic ign) (1) Pull the choke all the way back. (2) Crank the engine over a couple of rotation and then turn the key to off. (3) Crank the engine again and it fires every time. (4) And as was mentioned by Beandip, push the choke forward to achieve and idle rpm of approximately 1000 rpm and let her warm up. I believe it take a period of time for the fuel/air mixture to get into the cylinders, when it's been sitting for long period of time....hence the cranking exercise! Just my 2 cents worth! Tom

Walt, Have you tried searching the archives yet? Lots of great info! Also, have you purchased a service manual....which has this info? Tom

My advise, find a reputable engine builder! :tapemouth

Just wanted to mention my Z just turned 37 years old this month! I was fortunite enough to find it in 1983 and have owned it ever since. I'm still amazed I have the same paint job (it's still shinny red) as when I purchased it 24 years ago. Gotta love these cars:love: .........!!! Tom

What happens all the way up to 7000 RPM.......simply put, the engine just increases in RPM and decreases in power! Just because an engine is capable of 7000 RPM doesn't have anything to do with the RPM peak output is achieved.....especially with a mild stock set-up.

Sorry, not enough information for an answer!

For ease of fitting, as you will put it on and take it off a number of times for a really good fit, its best to remove the dash from the car. Upon final install, securing the edges of the cap is critical to a factopry look. You don't want to take short cuts on this upgrade! Also, with the dash out of the car, you can check and or replace any instrument bulbs that need it. Remember to just take your time and do it right the first time....and don't use too much adhesive as expansion and contraction will occur from temperature changes during normal driving. Tom

IMO, Simply put, a stut tower brace does nothing more than maintain the original (designed) geometric relationship between the stut towers, while under loading. Tom

On my 3/70 240Z the knob is east/west when in the locked position. Interesting the amount of interest and knowledge about a simple little item like a gas door knob.......now that some serious detail!!! Tom

It was late 1983 and I had just turned 32 years young when I found and purchased my 1970 240Z (3/70). I purchased it from PierreZ in Hawthorn Ca. I've owned it ever since and in 2000 it was completely disassembled for a needed freshening up......of course I included a number of modifications during the process. It was back on the road again in late 2002 and has provided me with many hours of enjoyment ever since. As I look back to when I purchased the Z, I would have never imagined that I would still own it today and that I would transform it into the beautiful toy it is now! Tom

Mark, Just out of curiosity, can you see what brand of rod end bearings they come with? Thanks, Tom

Mike, You might want to look at the chrome tail-pipe that comes with the MSA Super Turbo exhaust system.....made for 2 1/2" pipe, has the rolled edge you are looking for, and is simple and clean looking. Couldn't be more that $30.00! Tom

Robby, Your best bet would be to visit the HYBRIDZ website.....lots of info on various engine transplants! Tom