240ZX

Yep, just the back of their head!!!!

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm, TomoHawk is inquiring about dolls in kiddie clothes!!? Do we dare ask? Maybe preparing for a career in politics?

Victor, Looking at the picture showing the rear flares, it appears to me that those rear tires are going to rub the flares during bump. Would you agree? Tom

I always get a kick out of the young drift guys, thinking it is something new!!! Shoot, sprint car guys have been doing it for decades. One thing is for sure...the tire companies certainly love it!

Not likely!!!

Jim, What I did was..........I replaced the lower radiator hose casting, on the block, to the later version with a threaded hole for a fitting, as opposed to the early unit you just push the heater hose onto. Purchased a nice AN fitting, some stainless steel 1/2" tubing, and the appropriate nut and sleeve for the tubing. I bent the tubing to run next to the block and used the two existing small threaded holes, on the side of the block, and secured it with Adel clamps. At the back end of the tubing I added a bend that would match the bend of a stock heater hose. I did shorten the end of the hose some. As it turned out, it is a much cleaner install than the stock stuff. Wish I had a picture to post but, if you look at my photo gallery you will at least get an idea of the work I do...just no picture of the modified hearter line! Tom

Jim, Removing and or disconnecting the carb heater system is a common thing thats done, if one lives in a warm climate. There should be no ill effects from disabling it. Just remember to let your baby warm up before driving off. I'm with you on eliminating under the hood clutter...I've eliminated the carb heating system on my 1970 too. Infact, I've revised the cabin heater lines so they look cleaner...the stock lines just looked a bit cheesey to me. Tom

Just a note....lowering the Z obviously changes the amount of bump and droop travel when using stock length dampers. Typically you will increase the available droop and decrease the available bump. This is not a bad thing if you don't lower the Z too much. Lowering beyond 1 1/2" may become problematic. This is the reason for sectioning the struts and installing the appropriate length dampers. It balances the droop and bump available travel. Tom

Hey Chris, I feel your anxiety!!! I still think your main priority should be doing well with school......you know, no success with school = no $$$ later down the road. Your Z will still be waiting for you to work on it when time allows. Patients is a key to surviving your situation....ya, ya, I know patients is not something a young guys tends to exhibit! I had to laugh when I started reading this post, because I saw that I had obviously told you something in our communications, but for the life of me I couldn't remember...had to go back and read what it was I said. Like others have mentioned, stay focused on what your Z will become and just do what you can when you can. Eventually it will get done. Hang tough! Tom

I voted....on sunny days only. There is no way in hell I'm going to drive my 1970 Z in bad weather, especially after spending two years getting it into it's current condition. Basically my Z is a weekend toy that otherwise spends its life in a nice garage out of the elements...and I live in SoCal where the weather is generally nice and sunny. It like a very old rare whisky......not to be used up wrecklessly but to be sipped and savored for it's uniqueness! But boy is is fun on the back twisty mountain roads......this is the savoring part! Tom

For certain, it doesn't take much to plug the fuel tank outlet on these old Z's. There is no screen or any type of strainer, just the bare end of the steel line sticking up in the fuel tank. I had a similar problem even after I thought I had completely cleaned out the fuel tank. I actually stuck a fiberoptics scope in through the fuel filler and worked it into position so I could watch what was taking place at the fuel tank outlet. Low and behold a very small bit of debris slowly approached the outlet and then plugged the outlet, stopping the fuel flow. When I turned the engine off the bit of debris would simply float away back into the fuel tank, only to be sucked over the outlet the next time I would run the engine. Yes, I too burned up an expensive fuel pump in the process of resolving this issue. Tom

Heads are relatively easy to come by but, as most Z car owners will tell you you will most certainly have the rust monster to deal with. Our archives have tons of info on these old Datsuns, the how to's, and the where to get's. Do your homework before you jump in! Good luck, Tom

Speaking of Dave Rebello....he offers a 3.0 L6 w/50mm Su's that puts out 285 HP @ the crank. Nice package! About $6500.00 worth. Tom

Excellent job of blending in the contours and applying the finish!!! My guess is that with exposure to the regular exspansion and contractions of heating and cooling, you will likely start seeing cracks develope in or next to the repaired areas over time. In the event this does happen, just purchase a full dash cap ($100.00) and put it on. Nice work however! Tom

Well, I'd bet if you take a trip to one of the local auto parts stores you will find an aftermarket shop manual, such as the "Haynes", that provides that and more information on your ZX. There are better shop manuals....such as the factory service manual (more $$$). Maybe someone will jump in who is familiar with the ZX's. Tom

The best suggestion I can offer, while you're waiting to purchase a timing light, is to buy a book on the basics of an engine and how to do a tune-up. Then buy either a factory service manual or the less expensive aftermarket shop manual....like a Haynes manual. Tom

Maybe a worn out piolet bushing or main input shaft bearing? Tom

From my personel perspective (What's wrong with the 350Z?)....well, not much if anything but it still looks like a Toad. However, when slightly modified with the right tire/wheel combo and lowered a bit the 350Z does look pretty racey. So, as alot of us have stated from the very begining, the Toad-like look is it's weakness....nothing more! I still like the looks of my S30 way better than the 350Z. Tom

I have a set on my 1970 and have had them on since 1983. I feel the Z looks incomplete without them! Certainly a more finished look IMO. Plus, you get the advantage of the aero effect.....smooth surface as opposed to scoops. Regarding the cleaning hassel.....I think it takes less time to remove them and wipe the scoop area than to clean out all the bugs and crud that will get stuck in and around the headlight, without the covers. But over all, they just look cool!!!! Tom

Mitch, Welcome aboard! Regardinging your questions, Become familiar with the search function. The amount of Z information in our archives is overwhelming.....just about anything you what to know about the early Z's. Also, it is beneficial to be more detailed on your personal profile, as then folks will know where you are located, your age, etc., etc. Believe me, this will help out when you need help! Again, welcome and enjoy!!!! Tom

Because he just pulled into the driveway!!?

My only comment is, Beautiful dreamer....the seller that is!!!

Sorry if you THINK I'm being a smartalek...as that was not my intent, just your interpitation! It just seems that alot of your responces to the good folks trying to help you with your problems, were a bit on the snippy side....displaying some frustration and little negativity! Based on your responces I'd have to quess you are pretty young....so do yourself a favor and please listen to whats being said, you may learn something you didn't know about the Z cars. Just some food for thought!!! P.S. Its always helpful to fill out your personal profile so people will know what you have (car), what you do, your age, and what part of the world your from. Tom

Sorry to be so pointed but, after reading a number of your posts I suggest you take your car to someone who knows how to work on it!!! Or, if this is like your condensation problem you already know what to do! Right? Tom