240ZX

Rob, Have you read any of the many posts on solid diff mounts? If not, I recommend that you do so. Reason......if you install only a solid mount at the front of the diff and retain pliable bushings on the mustache bar, you are going to have a failure over time. You need to use either solid mounts or pliable mount (front mount/mustache bar bushings) but, don't use a combination of the two. Hope this provides some insight! Tom

Geezer's suggestion of neverseez however, does not provide the sealant factor! Teflon tape or a teflon based pipe dope will do the trick! Tom

If you can hand tighten it to 3 O'clock, then wrench tightening it to the 10 O'clock position will not be a concern. These are pipe threads and are tappered. Are you using teflon tape or other type sealant on the threads? Tom

Doehring, I have no personnel experience with the kit you mention but, in all the reading and research I've done there has been no mentions of the adjustable bushing loosing adjustment under hard use. A number of members use them....hopefully they will add their 2 cents. Tom

As a suggestion, you may want to visit HYBRIDZ. As usual, research their archives before asking questions. There is a ton of info regarding turbo conversions. Tom

Well, Santa didn't bring me anything for my 240Z but, I did get in some really good seat time!!! Oh, the back road where just flat azz fun, with most everyone at work and me on vacation! However, Santa did me well on my CRF450R......rebuilt and revalved suspension from RG3. Man what a difference! Tom P.S. Hope everyone had a happy holiday!

Welcome, If you intend to race your Z, first thing you do is decide what class you wish to compete in....then aquire a current rule book, so you will known what is allowed in that class. Also, you may want to visit HYBRIDZ as there are a number of folks who race, as well as, some very good fabricators. Happy huntng! Tom

Welcome to Classic Zcar Club "X" I think you will find a vast amount of info here.......check out the archives with the SEARCH function. Just about anything you can think of, to do to the Z, has been addressed at one time or another. I know that when I was doing research for redoing my 1970, I discovered so much valuable info that I highly recommend spending time researching. Again, welcome! Tom

Maintaining cold air to any type induction system, NA or EFI is a plus up in performance. With appropriate placement of the air inlet, one can benfit from the ram effect as well. So don't fool yourself into thinking a cold air induction system won't benefit a NA system. Thats a fact Jack! Tom

Speaking of the heater valve....there is no better time to replace the heater valve than while you're replacing the hoses! It will be worth the satisfaction of knowing its all fresh! Tom

Thats a fact Jack!!!!

Looks like a Dave Despain Boblehead with hair and glasses! Tom

I quess in retrospect, we should be thanking TomoHawk for provide us the opportunity to share a little Christmas entertainment! And Darrel, I think you've nailed it! Tom

You know what they say Chris...."Great minds think alike." Tom

Yep, just the back of their head!!!!

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm, TomoHawk is inquiring about dolls in kiddie clothes!!? Do we dare ask? Maybe preparing for a career in politics?

Victor, Looking at the picture showing the rear flares, it appears to me that those rear tires are going to rub the flares during bump. Would you agree? Tom

I always get a kick out of the young drift guys, thinking it is something new!!! Shoot, sprint car guys have been doing it for decades. One thing is for sure...the tire companies certainly love it!

Not likely!!!

Jim, What I did was..........I replaced the lower radiator hose casting, on the block, to the later version with a threaded hole for a fitting, as opposed to the early unit you just push the heater hose onto. Purchased a nice AN fitting, some stainless steel 1/2" tubing, and the appropriate nut and sleeve for the tubing. I bent the tubing to run next to the block and used the two existing small threaded holes, on the side of the block, and secured it with Adel clamps. At the back end of the tubing I added a bend that would match the bend of a stock heater hose. I did shorten the end of the hose some. As it turned out, it is a much cleaner install than the stock stuff. Wish I had a picture to post but, if you look at my photo gallery you will at least get an idea of the work I do...just no picture of the modified hearter line! Tom

Jim, Removing and or disconnecting the carb heater system is a common thing thats done, if one lives in a warm climate. There should be no ill effects from disabling it. Just remember to let your baby warm up before driving off. I'm with you on eliminating under the hood clutter...I've eliminated the carb heating system on my 1970 too. Infact, I've revised the cabin heater lines so they look cleaner...the stock lines just looked a bit cheesey to me. Tom

Just a note....lowering the Z obviously changes the amount of bump and droop travel when using stock length dampers. Typically you will increase the available droop and decrease the available bump. This is not a bad thing if you don't lower the Z too much. Lowering beyond 1 1/2" may become problematic. This is the reason for sectioning the struts and installing the appropriate length dampers. It balances the droop and bump available travel. Tom

Hey Chris, I feel your anxiety!!! I still think your main priority should be doing well with school......you know, no success with school = no $$$ later down the road. Your Z will still be waiting for you to work on it when time allows. Patients is a key to surviving your situation....ya, ya, I know patients is not something a young guys tends to exhibit! I had to laugh when I started reading this post, because I saw that I had obviously told you something in our communications, but for the life of me I couldn't remember...had to go back and read what it was I said. Like others have mentioned, stay focused on what your Z will become and just do what you can when you can. Eventually it will get done. Hang tough! Tom

I voted....on sunny days only. There is no way in hell I'm going to drive my 1970 Z in bad weather, especially after spending two years getting it into it's current condition. Basically my Z is a weekend toy that otherwise spends its life in a nice garage out of the elements...and I live in SoCal where the weather is generally nice and sunny. It like a very old rare whisky......not to be used up wrecklessly but to be sipped and savored for it's uniqueness! But boy is is fun on the back twisty mountain roads......this is the savoring part! Tom

For certain, it doesn't take much to plug the fuel tank outlet on these old Z's. There is no screen or any type of strainer, just the bare end of the steel line sticking up in the fuel tank. I had a similar problem even after I thought I had completely cleaned out the fuel tank. I actually stuck a fiberoptics scope in through the fuel filler and worked it into position so I could watch what was taking place at the fuel tank outlet. Low and behold a very small bit of debris slowly approached the outlet and then plugged the outlet, stopping the fuel flow. When I turned the engine off the bit of debris would simply float away back into the fuel tank, only to be sucked over the outlet the next time I would run the engine. Yes, I too burned up an expensive fuel pump in the process of resolving this issue. Tom