240ZX

TomoHawk, Most all of these driving schools are very informative. For an entry level student.....safety issues, driving techniques, and learning the correct lines around a course are some of the basic items covered along with time on the track. Anyone who is interested in improving their driving skills will benfit from attending. There are also other driving classes such as "Executive Driving Courses" that teach one offensive and defensive driving skills, in addition to time on the race track. Some of the one day courses are very reasonable, considering what you learn and get to do, while most of the three day courses are in the neighborhood of $2500 and up. Give yourself a real nice gift and attend one....you'll love it!

Murphy, you have a point about the rolled lip! But hey, its a stock rolled lip!!!

You don't need to use any sealer. Just be sure to purchase a top quaulity gasket that is thick enough. Also, be sure to recheck the fasteners torque after the engine has run for a day or two. If your mounting studs look questionable, now is the time to replace them.

Maybe not the 17" x 10" but, the 17" x 9" will fit in the rear with the lip rolled. If you are in doubt, visit my pic gallery.

Now if you're talking about really good hoses, check out the CV4 website. Very nice silicone hose and in different colors but, not cheap. Otherwise, if you are just looking to replace the stock hoses, contact Courtesy Nissan in Texas.

You must be new to the car performance world! The device is called a dynomometer....or dyno for short. It measures torque output. There are engine dynos (measures output at the flywheel) and a chassis dyno (measures output at the wheels).

I just could not resist the urge to post a comment about this thread. From what I gather from reading this thread, the poor guy just needs some attention! Funny as it may be, if we look back in history, there have been some pretty strange people who have made some pretty strange claims! Some of those people, as it turns out, actually made a reasonably good contribution to society. On the other hand, there are by far more stange people who are nothing but.....you guessed it, STRANGE! So, maybe in another 20 years or so we might read about our buddy here making some discovery regarding internal combustion engine performance. OK, maybe I'm being a bit too optimistic :stupid: Anyway, enough said.....see ya!

Tristan, Before attempting to tune the carbs, be sure that you have done all the other engine tune-up things......timing, plugs, points (if you have them), valves, etc., etc. No sense in trying to tune the carbs if the engine is not in spec. And as Arne mentioned, be sure you have no vacuum leaks.

Yes, you can eliminate the water lines that run through the carb bodies! However, by doing so it will likely take a bit longer to warm up when its cold out. Many folks do eliminate those lines.

Are these Splash Pan available from anyone anymore.....in reasonable condition? I looked on Courtesy Nissan's site and they indicated they are no longer available new. Can you guys point me in the right direction? Thanks, Tom

Maybe Victoria British may have them!

I can't say positively but, you may want to check for current. If there is no warning light or buzzer, I wouldn't worry about them.....just insulate the leads and store them out of the way. It seems that Datsun harnesses have circuits that were never used for a particular model....like the leads for an electric fuel pump on an early 1970. No electric fuel pump came stock on this model year (USA) but the leads are there!

I don't see way not, provided you do your wheel/tire location calculations correctly. Once you get past 8" rim width, you will be getting near the limits of acceptable clearance. You will most likely be running 35 aspect ratio tires....225mm wide to 245mm wide.

Victor, the reason a 17" or 18" rim will have more clearance between the struts is because the strut angles away from the wheel, so the larger the rim diameter the more clearance there is between the struts, for a given offset....simple geometry my friend.

There are a number of guys with similar set-ups that would agree with me. But hey, everybody is entitled to their own opinion. Just trying to help a fellow member out with some proven facts.:classic: Regarding your question about rubbing the springs....not an issue however, at the rear, the inside edge of the rim is approximately 1/8" away from the strut. At the ride height of my Z, I believe I'm at the limit of rim width and to avoid rear tire rub at the fender well lip I run a 235-40 tire and the lip has been rolled. So Victor, you can believe what you wish! If you doubt my input, then maybe you should take a trip to S.P. so I can confirm it to you!!! And if you decide to come by, don't forget to bring the beer....you know what kind I like!

Wow! Now thats one car I've never seen before. I quess one could say it has some similar features shared with the early Zs.

Monstar147, You should have no issues putting 17"x7" wheels on your Z. As mentioned, you will need to use spacers to position the tire/wheel correctly in the wheel well. Some simple measurements will provide you information for calculating the spacer thickness. I run (f)17"x8" and ®17"x9" and have no clearance issues and my Z sits pretty low! Some people say spacers are not good for race applications but, tell that to the racers who use them regularly!!? Done properly, spacers are just fine....just remember to torque the bolts properly and check them occasionally. When people tell you you need zero offset, that is the offset of the stock skinny steel rims. Both my front and rear wheels are 35mm (1.38")offset. My front spacers are approximately 27mm (1.063") and the rear are approximately 22mm (0.87").....certainly not a zero offset situation when you add the thickness of the spacers and wheel offset......front = 8mm (.315") offset, rear = 13mm (.512") offset. You have to remember you are trying to center a wider rim than stock.

I've had my 1970 240Z since late 1983 and intend on keeping it till its time to push up daisies! I was a senior in high school when they first came out and fell in love with it at first sight!

The only think I'd add is.......patiencs!!! If you find yourself getting over whelmed, pissed off, or what ever, just walk away from it for a while and come back to it when the positive attitude returns. Stay focused on the end result and don't take any short-cuts, especially when going completely original.....you'll thank yourself later on!!!!

Happy Easter to you too Rick, and to all Classic Zcar Club members as well! If the sun is shining and the roads are dry.......hmmmmm, could be a good day to take the Z for a drive.

Forget about looking out the hatch window!!!

Kats, I was just noticing your 240's serial number (2156)! Its very likely our Z's rolled across the production line about the same time, as my serial number is (2126)......30 cars difference! Tom

Interesting comment Jon! To the best of my knowledge the nitrogen gas Tokico uses to charge the HP shocks only applies pressure to the oil in the chamber to reduce the possibility of foaming! It should have no effect on ride height. Dampers control movement, they do not dictate ride height. Visit Tokico's website. They have a great cutaway of the HP shock. You will see there is no way the gas can dictate ride height. When dampers are new they have more stiction than after they are broken in and if installed with old springs or good standard street spring (weak), the resistance from the stiction can have an effect on ride height. Typically high performance shocks are intended for high performance springs (matching components). Maybe if John Coffey reads this post we can get some additional input!