240ZX

I do have a ton of pictures I took during the redo....unfortunitley, I am not a digital camera owner. A friend of mine loaned me his digital camera so I could post the pictures you looked at. Sorry! If you have questions however, please feel free to ask!

As mentioned coilovers do provide you with additional width clearances. People are running 15", 16", 17" and yes 18" wheels on the series 1 cars. The discussion about wheels/tires is likely the most asked question and with a little searching of the archives, you will learn of the many ways people have installed larger than stock tires/wheels under their Z. I'm running 17"x 8" (f) and 17"x 9" ®. Yes I have coilovers and wheel spacers...but no rubbing issues. Take a look at my photo album (240ZX). Tell me what you think.

Interesting! To remove the lock assembly, you have to remove the two security type screws that clamp the assembly to the steering column...drill the heads off. I'm not sure if or how the lock cylinder is removalble on the Z but yes, generally speaking one needs a key to remove a lock cylinder from its housing. Personally, if the lock assembly is the original (old) unit, it is a good idea to replace the entire assembly for more reliable operation.....the old unit has likely had a key run in and out of it thousands of times and these things do wear out. One little tip I've learned to maximize the life of a lock cylinder is, when putting the ignition key in the lock cylinder, to start and run the car, only leave the ignition key in the lock, not a big bunch of keys hanging from it on the key ring! The added wieght will cause the internal parts to wear faster, as the assembly is subjected to the usual bumps and vibration of normal driving.

Dig a moat and install a draw bridge! Homeland security, you know! Just kidding ya!

Good share Eric! Did anyone notice the Ferrari guy talking on his cell phone? Those Ferrari guys think they can park their car anywhere....

The 5 lug conversion is an option and will provide a larger selection of wheels but will involve a bit of labor when it comes to changing out the rear stub axles. An alternative is to use wheel spacers on the existing hubs. Figuring wheel offset and width is required in both cases. Also, if you search the archives, you will find a number of threads on this subject. Hope this helps a bit?

Arne, If you get tired of searching for an OEM spring, you may consider an off-the-shelf tension spring....S.S. would be prefered. Measure the distance between the two attach point, with the clutch released, and subtract approximately 1/2" (maybe a little more). Sould be able to find a spring to fit at any good hardware store or do an internet search for springs. When I was redoing my Z, I replaced the two throttle return spring with S.S. springs and chose springs that had slightly less tension than did the stock spring, so my pedal pressure was slightly less. Anyway, I chose the S.S. spring for two other reasons besides get less tension....won't rust and they certainly look better too!

J, The name is Tom not Ted!!! Oh well, live and learn. Regarding the Unilite distributors....they actually had a reliability issue early on but, that was many many years ago. The current ones have been improved and are VERY reliable. If anyone intends to buy one, buy it from Summit Racing at near half the price of MSA.

In the event you are a dye-hard purist and have to have the original stuff......oh well $$$. Otherwise, you may consider replacing the plastic with carpet. Rems are usually inexpensive, as long as you find the color and texture you desire. The carpet will also add a little sound damping over the stock plastic....and personally, I think the carpet is much more attractive.

Thank you E!!!

Good call Bart! Shoot, when I was converting my 240 over to electronic ignition I went to the pick-a-parts to get the necessary distributor but..........to make a long story short, I said f_ _k it and purchased a new Mallory Unilite! It's been working perfectly for over 5 years now...and it looks way better than a stock unit. The pertronics conversion is certainly a good one as well....and alot less $$$ and labor. While your at it, put some GOOD plug wires on as well. I'm a fan of Magnacore wires (KV85 on my Z).

Please enlighten me Ed, unless you are refering to yourself! If I remember correctly, you were one of the folks sending condolances to ZmeFly not Carl or I!

Hi Eric! How have you been? Don't you just hate it when some sales guy you don't even know suggests a product model you don't want when they are out of what you do want, just to make a sale? How do your rotors look after breaking in the black pads?

Very strange! or sould I say very typical! I read the first post and for the life of me can not figure out why everyone jumped in and assumed ZmeFly had passed on!!? I get the feeling he is still with us......RAZ1 provides the insight! Come on people....please read before responding to a post. You all know the story about lemmings!

Good question! There were custom baseball caps!

The most important quality I want in my Z car is..........Me in the drivers seat having fun!!!

FYI, Hybridz has a new forum section just for Fabrication / Welding. Check it out if you are interested!

Now the supposed crap comes from Tiawan or China......I guess that should be a clue to the future.....yes? America, watch out!:paranoid:

Sure glad I won't be cleaning those puppies. And I thought mine were a (female dog) to clean! Classic looking wheel however.

When I reworked My half-shafts, I encountered the same issue of full extention and compression travel. However, by applying additional force, either to compress or extend the assembly, it will move and find the travel stops. Mine have been working perfectly for over 5 years now. I'm not positive this is the recommended procedure but, it worked for me! And yes, what a greasy mess it was!!!!

Motorsport Auto, Victoria British, Courtesy Nissan (Texas). Any one of these companies can help you out!

Excellent point! Granted, this is a really safe way to remove caliper pistons....although it will certainly take longer and is messy, for sure!!! But, its not as though removing caliper pistons is a tiddy task!

Don't forget about these books...."LITTLE YELLOW RIVER" written by I. P. Daily and "THE BIG BROWN PILE" written by Sir Squatenleavett ROFL

I think you'll find that the original seats sit no higher and or possibly lower than the Recaros do. Typically with after market seats, there is usually an issue with getting them to sit low enough...as compared to stock seats. Fortunitely, the stock seats had spacers under the slides for hieght and or angle adjustment. FYI, I have a set of 1970 seats I'm willing to part with! They have been recovered at some time and are currently look in pretty darn good shape, with maybe the exception of needing new foam and suspension. I'm located in SoCal.