240ZX

Also, didn't the early seats have two little vents incorporated into the seat material, in the lumbar area? NovaSS, FYI I have a set of series one seats available for sale, including the slider assemblies. However, they have been recovered and have no little vents...the drivers seat has a little wear on the piping and the support webbing needs to be replaced.

That certainly is a fine looking Z! Spoilers? Well, the best thing to do to search though vendor cataloges, as there are a number of front spoilers available. Also, using the search function on this site should provide some insight as well. Good hunting and welcome aboard!

Nice ride Ronnie! Kinda reminds me of my 1970 (see my gallery).......and they look to be the same color. Gotta love a RED sports car, especially an early Z.

As many of us have experienced, there are always the unknowns in addition to the obvious issues on these old Z cars. Yes it's in pretty nice shape and certainly worth having but if the price gets any higher the new owner is going to have doubts latter on down the road on the price they paid and the price they will be paying to bring it back to snuff. Oh well, somebody is going to love it! It does look to have some miles on it...I'd give them $4000.00 for it.

Ahhhhhhh! That's what I call fun....nice video Dave. Uhmmm, the video seems to include a little self incrimination, the docuementation of passing over a double yellow line!!? Oh, I would neeeeever do such a thing! Sure.

Wishing you all a very merry Christmas and a safe and happy new year......now get in your Z and drive that baby!!!

OK, I'm over-ruled!!!

A bit expensive for that used (like new) seat don't you think? You can buy them new for around $200.00!!?:stupid:

Matt, raising chickens and quail has made you pretty sensative hasn't it? At 22 years of age, reacting is quite normal but this is not the place to vent...especially when asking a question about a 4X4 pickup. Sorry if I've offended you...I'm just an aging Z car freak.:nervous:

So Ron, North meets South....what a grand idea! Does the agenda only include touring Hearst Castle or is there anything else planned. I know there's not many gas stations in that area but, there's certainly some fun drives to be had. I know myself, when I'm in my Z, all I want to do is drive it....not park it and tour some billonaires play house while my baby is left down the hill in a parking lot unattended. Don't mean to toss out negative thoughts or rain on this parade but, I just had to ask.

Hi Duff, As a Z sicko you should be feeling pretty good with your find! I too, am an owner of an early Z.....727 car after yours. My manfacturing date is 3/70 as well. It's kinda cool owning one of the early units (bragging right maybe) but any of the 240, 260, or 280 body styles are just as beautiful in appearance. As you will likely discover, rust is a problem with just about any early Z. You may not see it until you start really looking during disassembly, but trust me, if you can see a little here and there there will be more other places. We've all experienced this beast. Anyway, you know where you can get answers to your future questions.....right here @ Classic Zcar Club! Alot of kind and knowegdable members here, willing to share with another Z sicko. Good luck and post some pics.

So sblake01, are you saying Glisten PC is impervious to chipping or scratching?

Interesting post! What ever happened to old elbow grease? It seems like alot of effort and time goes into applying this stuff, when a little TLC and elbow grease on a regular basis (old school) seems to work wonderfully! I never did like any of the clear coats intended to cover aluminum or what ever. One tiny nick or scratch and the corrosion starts to propigate under the clear coat....then it really looks like crap. I'll stick to the old rubbing method, thank you!

KDMatt, One thing some people forget to do when replacing cooling system parts is to flush out the block. In most cases a thin film of iron oxide (rust) builds up on the interior surfaces of the entire cooling system and acts as an insulator, preventing efficient heat transfer. Just some food for thought!

Marty, If you intend to install the 280ZX drive axles onto a R180 you should be fine but, if you have a R200 you will need to shorten the left side drive axle approximately 1/2" to prevent it from binding when completely compressed (when it's perpendicular to the diff). Been through this exercise and it's pretty simple to shorten. You have to completely disassemble the drive axle. Don't loose any of the parts and docuement the order in which they are disassembled so reassembly is correct. The modification is done to the male half of the drive axle assembly. Basically, you want to replicate the end of the male shaft, back .500". Reassemble with a good gease and get on down the road. The clamps that secure the boot can be an issue but I managed to reuse the stock unit. However, these type of band clamps are available but, you have to use the correct tool to secure them. Hope this info helps.

Getting rid of the water pump mounted fan blade and installing an electrical fan should not put an extra load on the electrical system, as it will be wired direct to the battery and controled by a temperature sensor. I have one installed on my 1970, with no issues! In fact, the only time it ever comes on is if I get stuck in heavy traffic for a long time or just after I shut the Z off after a good long drive. I'm very satisfied with my set-up....from MSA.

Arne is correct about the Subaru differentials. Some Subaru models use an R180 differential with a clutch type limited-slip differential. They should bolt right into the Datsun R180 differentials. A limited-slip differential is a great performance addition to the Z, especially if you like to participate in drag racing, autoX, road racing, or just having fun on your favorite twisty back road. It will make exiting right hand corners as effective as the left hand corners.....no more right rear lightup on the right hand corner exits. Also, the posi carriers usually have a four pinion spider assembly as opposed to the two pinion spider on an open unit, and contribute greatly to the strength of the differential.

Gav, Nice score on the seats! Certainly tasty items for your Z....however, you forgot to to install your rollbar when the seats were out (sure)! I think these sort of seats in a Z car greatly improve the driving experience and no more sore backs from the old stock seats. Do you have plenty of head room with the adjuster rails installed? As always.....you gotta love a RED Z car!!!!

Donovan, There is a search function that allows you to look through years of information that have been collected, regarding just about any subject matter on the early Z's. Usually when you don't get a reply to a question, it's because the subject has been discussed so many times before.....and tire/wheel fitment issues are high on the "Been discussed many time before list". Also, looking through the photo gallery may help you out with deciding a tire/wheel combo. Welcome aboard and happy hunting.

It's interesting that some folks think the white face gauges are "ricey"! Does anyone remember the old Smith gauges in early sports cars? These babies were white faced and set a trend in sports car gauge looks. Certainly not a "ricey" thing. This RICER thing is rediculous.....its just a bunch of young car guys who don't have the $$$ to do all the right things to make their car a real goer and happen to like Japanese sedans and such. They spend what they can to at least make their car look racey. Give it a break, at least they are into cars!

Nice spelling Bill! Itle = It'll...as in it will!!! Creative though!

Mark, I have a picture in my photo album of my engine bay with the K&N filters. The picture isn't at an angle that shows the complete filter set but maybe it will give you an idea of how they look.

How about....MMMMMMM or MMMMINE or -MY77Z-

OK, this is just second hand information but, I've read that the ITG foam filters are not recommended for regular use on street machines as they do not filter as fine a particulate as do paper or gause filters. They are designed for race conditions where maximum airflow is the major concern. Besides, racers tend to service their race cars between races so they may have less than 200 miles on a service. Check out the K&N system (separate filter for each SU).

Alot of the old stories about oil/filter and frequencies of changing it have mostly come from the companies that manufacture the stuff....like changing your oil/filter every 3000 miles (Gee, they're just trying to sell more product!!!). Take a look in the owners manuals today and see what they have to say!!! OK, you say my Z is not a new car and this does not really apply. Major brand oils have come along way with improving the durability and performance of their oils, espacially synthetics. I'm a big fan of Mobil#1 oil/filters.....a bit more pricey but thats my choice. I used to change oil/filter every 3000 miles until I did some serious investigation on what the experts (independent test labs) had to say about the current state of oils and how often oil/filter changes are recommended. Just like most of the auto manufactures will tell you and the independent labs agree, it depends upon the type of driving you do but under normal driving conditions (city/hwy) changing your oils and filter at 5000 miles is what is recommended. Shoot, some of the latest oils are recommending up to 15K mile between changes. But it's OK to fatten up the oils companies with unnecessary oil/filter changes....I'm sure they don't mind one bit $$$!!! Again, I believe synthetics is the way to go....especially if you tend to run her a bit hard. The stuff far surpasses dino oil. Just another man's opinion!