240ZX

As long as you have enough gear lube on hand, just fill the tranny until it comes out the fill plug hole...just like filling a differential. I believe the FSM provides transmission lube capacities.

Doug, This is a common issue on the old Zs. Some of the problem is worn parts and the bigger problem is in the adjustment of the throttle linkage. You are dealing with bell crank geometry issues! Basically, the farther a lever arm move off the 0 degree position (mid point of travel arch or when the lever arm is 90 degrees to the driven link), move force is required to move the lever arm. So what is happening is, that when you first apply pressure to the GO pedal the lever arm is way off the 0 degree position (requiring more pressure to move the pedal) and as the pedal is moving down the lever arm gets closer to the 0 degree position (it gets easier to push the pedal). Mind you, when you get to full throttle the same event occurs ( more pressure is required to move the pedal) but you will not really notice it as much. So, its a matter of looking at the position of the bell cranks on the throttle linkage and adjust them to minimize this effect. Any play in the linkage will not help the matter either. In my case, I had excessive play in the bushing that the rotating linkage (shaft running from the firewall to the carbs) rides in next to the firewall. When I fixed that the throttle was more positve. There are some old write-ups on this subject that provide a better description than I have provided. Wish I could remember which site it was on. Hope this helps some and good luck.

Carl is correct, but I never asked which one was causing the wear....but which one wears first! Ah, it's all in fun and slightly educational anyway. Carl, did I spell babbitt wrong?

Gotchya! Actually, the hardened steel will wear first. Why you may ask? What happens is that particals (particularly hardened steel particals and or any contaminent), produced from wearing become embedded in the surface of the softer bronze. Now what happens, as most may know, the embedded hardened steel particals now bear against hardened steel and will wear. The basic rule is that similar metal will wear faster against each other than dissimilar metals. This wear senerio is very typical of swash plates in a hydraulic pump. Carl main bearings and rod bearings bearing surfaces are babit, but if contaminents become embedded in the babit, it will wear little grooves in the crank...as many have experienced.

Nice ride there Patrick! Patients is a vertue. You must be feeling pretty fine after that catch?

Chris, you thinks correctly! :classic: He's probably diggin through the books as we speak...I mean type!

Here's one for you Dave! If you have two dissimilar metals, lets say bronze and hardened steel, bearing and wearing against each other while lubricated with oil, which one will show signs of wear first, or wear out first? :nervous:

Jason, Go to the search function on the blue tool bar and type in CAM OILER. There are a number of posts on this issue. However, if you have an internal oiling cam, you need to remove the external oiler and use block-off plates.....read posts for more details.

Keith, You have a couple of choices here. You can have the tappered hole, that the ball joint goes into, reamed to fit the later and larger units or as you mentioned, replace the steering knuckles with later models. Just a thought for you to ponder....you may consider the shorter steering knuckles if you do replace the older units. It definitely makes the car steer more like a real sports car....requires a bit less rotation of the steering wheel while cornering. As far as originality....thats your call.

The difference between the 4.11 & 4.44 is roughly 6 1/2 %. In my 240...I have the late model 5 spd with 4.11 LSD and 24" diameter tires. At 3000 rpm in 5th gear, I'm traveling at roughly 70 mph. On some of the tires shop sites, they provide the equations to calculate your speed, based on your set-up. But for an approximation....with 4.44 in my set-up at 3000 rpm, I would be going approximately 65 mph, instead of 70 mph with the 4.11s.

Han, You are right about the adhesive on the half cap...of course that all depends upon how much the PO used during the install. For sure you will want to remove the dash, as I have never figured out why one would attempt going through this exercise without removing the dash. Anyway, the dash removel is a PITA, so when you have it out check everything in the dash for correctness and proper function. On the full dash cap, take your time to get a proper fit. Do it right the first time and be done with it.....don't get in a hurry or get frustrated. When your ready to do final attachment, and this is only after you are completely happy with the fit, use the bonding adhesive according to the directions and secure the cap firmly with duct tape, to keep it in place while the adhesive is curing.

Its interesting that you guys tend to use a lubricant on a device intended to remove material!!!? Lubricants are designed to prevent wear! Try using a solvent or a cutting type oil. You are likely getting clogging in the stones because of the lubricant......try using solvent. Just some food for thought!

Get on the internet and take a look for the THOMAS GUIDE or THOMAS DIRECTORY. It provides info on all sorts of businesses...including locations. Or maybe just try typing in ....media blasting in New Jersey! If you found this site, you will likey find a blasting outfit in NJ.

A long 1/2" breaker bar works well! As you may know, the square drive end of the breaker bar fits nicely into the drain plug. These plugs can be very tight and require some effort!

TomoHawk, you can bank on the fact that I am not alone in my candor about you!!!

Does TPS translate to.....TomoHawk's Perpetual Stupidity?

Sounds like your muffler bearing are shot! If you disconnect the framajammer from your BFM, it should solve the problem. Or, manybe if you turn your MUSIC up loud enough you won't notice it any more. Hey, I know! Squirt some liquid wrench all over the engine and then add a lit match......problem gone. Yah, thats the ticket!

I'll bet your excited! For sure it won't make your Z auto-rotate, but it will surely improve the whole experience of driving it. When I went from a 3.90 open diff to a 4.11 LSD, I was really surprised at the quicker accelleration and improved corner exit speed. I think your goin to like it!!! Congats on the find.

71datsunZ, I have a 1970 and all I will say is....."Its so much fun to drive, it should be considered illegal!"

Eric, PM Victor L. and see if he knows of one!

Waylon, I think the Hydro-boost system is probably a good idea for trucks and bigger heavier vehicle, but at least on early Z's, without power steering, it would be a bigger chore installing a power steering pump and getting the Hydro-boost mechanism to interface with the stock Z brake pedal. Don't get me wrong....it would probably work fine, but for the hassel it would take to install it and the addition of probably 50 lbs to the front of the Z....well, I think it would be better and easier to install bigger rotors and calipers. Just my opinion! At least your being creative!

Andrew, Be advised that this modification is a good street car mod. The addition to SS flex lines and a set of good pads will improve it a bit more. However, with the addition of increased friction capability also comes the addition of heating up the non vented stock rotor much quicker. There is also the additional weight of the bigger calipers too. So, for street only applications, this modification is a cost effective upgrade. Just some food for thought!

MUSIC.............will this new avatar make you smarter or something? I doubt it! Berea? I thought you said you were from Cleveland. :stupid:

Allan, I also have a series 1 and have added the white face overlays. Re: question #2, not an issue if you are very careful with prep and installation. Re: question #1, there is no correct overlay (that I'm aware of) for the series 1 speedo. The speedometer will not start at 20mph and the high beam indicator lense will be covered over...but you can still see it through the overlay when illuminated. I said, what the heck and installed them anyway...they still look great IMO.