240ZX

I've got the best idea!!!! Let Tomohawk do it.....he's the expert on this subject. Yah, who needs a spring compressor, they're for whimps....be a man and take a chance at dismembering yourself. Safety....we don't need no stinking safety!!!

Gavin, as usual your good taste is again present....JUST DO IT ! They look great!!! I've also installed the white face overlays and I think they look far better than the original black faces. Easier to read for sure. Some people may think they are not appropriate but I think they give the car a bit more of a vintage look...like alot of the early sports cars that came with the white faced Smith gauges.

If you are not suggesting that someone use it, why on earth would you even post it? Tomohawk, you will never change will you!? I don't know why I even bother responding to your nonsense! :disappoin

Tomohawk, you obviously don't understand the point here! By attempting to loosen or remove any of the built up sludge will result in problems, as noted from people with real life experiences! Liquid Wrench just wants you to buy their product. The stuff is a solvent for gawd sakes!!! :stupid:

Getting it cheap enough is one thing...but be prepared for the rust monster. From the looks of the photos there is plenty!

I suppose it might be a good idea as long as you are very familiar with geometric tolerancing and all the required symbols, directing the machinist in the correct fashion, familiar with metalurgy to select the proper materials....etc., etc. Might just be cheaper in the long run to employ a quaulified draftsman!

I second that emotion!!! :sleep:

Item #1 - Have plenty-O-money Item #2 - Turn back if you fear RUST

NOT!!!! :stupid:

First of all, welcome to Classic Zcar Club! Regarding the removal of your tranny output shaft seal....#1 - Remember that the tranny housing is aluminum and is easy to damage. #2 - What may help you out, based on your explaination of your progress, take a small bladed screw driver and file or carefully grind the bladed end to a realatively sharp chisel piont. #3 - Place the sharpened end of the screw driver between the edge of the seal assembly and the transmission housing, and drive it in with a hammer about 1/4" (thats about as far as you will need). This should create a small gap. Follow this procedure adjacent to the first place you created the gap. #4 - Now you should be able to get a slightly larger bladed screw driver in the gap to pry it out. If you do damage the housing a little, fear not, as a little sealant in that area during the installation of a new seal should resolve that. Just some food for thought!!!

Charlie, You've heard the old saying...."If it aint broken don't fix it!" If its running satisfactory, just maintain it until you do a rebuild. Sometimes issues can arrise from trying to flush out the old gunk.....leaking seals, semi-plugged passages, etc. Maybe someone else will jump in and share thier experiences with a similar issue.

Marc, The conversion you plan to do to a good one and is quite common! With the 5 spd/4:11 you will notice a significant improvement in acceleration....well worth the effort involved. As far as a typical price for an R200 differential.....somewhere around $75.00 to $200.00 depending on condition and if its an open or LSD unit. For sure you will want to do your homework on the details of the conversion. Consider replacing things like bushings, wheel bearings, U-joints, and such while you have it apart. Let us know how things transpire.

Interesting statement about Mobil 1 ! It almost seems funny, because many professional racers have sworn by it for many years. Maybe you just used the wrong wieght oil or your oil system had issues. Additionally, Mobil 1 filters are one of the best rated filters on the market...but they cost!

Good call Carl......most definitely a 1970!

Peter, I was definitely in attendance and my Z was parked on the corner at the south end of the exhibit....the car is red but no flames.

I'd have to say it was a pretty nice show...learned a thing or two about the roadsters from Victor, who by the way, always welcomes you to rest at Camp Vic. These roadster folks are just as sick as us Z car folks. I drove my 240 up to Solvang Saturday morning.....very pleasent drive at that....hung out for a couple of hours and headed back toward Ventura. Was a fun and educational day! Thanks for being such a host Victor.

Mobil 1....filter and oil. Good stuff!

Shoot......the tail-light lenses alone are worth more than $250.00! I suppose if someone were into dragging it home and dismanteling the rust bucket, they could likely make a few dollars from parts.

I also agree with Craig's suggestion. I would prefer the RA1's but TOYO only has my rear tire sizing...no fronts in my size! :disappoin

I'll second that recommendation. I'm also running a set of the Yokohama ES100's on my 240Z. However, mine are 215-40 x 17" (front) and 235-40 x 17" (rear). Damn good high performance street tires...and they are relatively cheap too!!

I'm sticking my neck out here but, do the webers even have a choke?

Steve, You are correct about the title of the book...amd it is a good book. However, IIRC it does not provide all the specific details for rebuilding the Z, but is geared more toward guidance for a successful rebuild. Now of course there are some assumptions that should be addressed, such as having some level of mechanical apptitude and sufficient tools to exicute the rebuild. So, basically one would need to be capable of disassembling and reassembling the car as well as being able to deal with the usual issues that come up that deviate from the norm...like, how do I remove and deal with rusted and frozen fasteners. The only really tough area, when replacing bushings is at the rear control arms were they attach to the strut assembly...as it can be tough to disassemble, due to frozen rusty parts. There are also some tricks to reassembly when using the urethane bushings, as they are not as compliant as the rubber units and at the time of reassembly your hands are most certainly covered with that super slippery lube that is provided for lubing up the bushings. You will speak to God now and them...believe me! The specific area I am talking about is the reassembly of the rear control arm to the strut. The reassembly is much easier when you grind a slight relief on one side of the strut housing, were the bushing bear against the casting, otherwise you will be trying to force this slippery bushing over a machined sharp edge to get it in place. Just about all the other areas, for bushing replacement, are pretty straight forward. Damn, one coul;d write a book about this subject. But don't panic, it's been sucessfully done by many.

I'm not certain which kit is the best, or if one is better than another...but for sure, do use the provided bushing lube and use it liberally.....no lube = squeeking. I believe the kit I purchased and installed was from ENERGY SUSPENSION.

Lacy, Have you had a chance to purchase a factory shop manual on your Z yet? They have really nice exploded views of the systems within the Z. Anyway, in regards to your question...I think you are asking, what type of bushings are used in the rear suspension, as the rear drive axles are nothing more than telescopic driveshafts and are bolted to the differential and stub axle assemblies...right and left side. Now the stock bushings are a rubber compound and generally are shot due to age and wear. I think its safe to say that most people replace the old rubber units with modern day urethane bushings. They will certainly tighten up your suspension (minimise play) and last almost indefinitely. A complete urethane bushing kit (for the entire car)runs about $250.00 and is worth every penny of the price. They can be purchased from a number of sources as well...do a little searching here in the archives and on the NET....seek and you shall find! There are old posts that discuss the entire process oss removing the old ones and installing the new ones. The most difficult ones to deal with are the lower outer rear bushings, where the strut assembly attaches to the transverse link. The tappered locking bolt and spindal shaft tend to become rusted in place and require some words to God. Hope this post gets you pointed in the right direction.