240ZX

You know TomoHawk, you for once are correct about something! Yes, my head hurts every time I read one of your posts!!! P.S. G E T A L I F E

PEP BOY'S :stupid:

Man, I have to agree with Will's post! Good eye Will! We all know photographs can hide alot of little things...if you know what I mean? Also, from the looks of the undercarrige, which looks pretty hammered and rust riden, this car looks as though it has had a paint job and some tires and wheels added and that about it! This guy obviously has no idea the current value of these cars, based on the condition it is in! $23.500.00??? He's got to be kinding. To copy Will's explaination regarding price....then my 1970 240Z should be worth at least $30,000.00..............any taker????

So, lets see a picture of your 71 with the C2s! Always love pics.

Another phrase I've often heard used is...OH SH _T!!! Especially after a rollover!

Eric, have you thought about trying Z Theropy? I know they're SU guys, but carbs is carbs and jetting should follow the same logic. Might be worth a try.

Come on guys, isn't interface the little face we hide behind the one everyone sees??? Sorry Fred, I couldn't resist the urge to make a funny!

messenger, Your statement regarding larger contact area is true however, it does not necessarily cause more friction unless the force being applied is greater. As an example...if we have a given piston area and applied pressure, and it is the same for both examples, and a pad area of 2" x 4" verses a pad with 2" x 3" area. there will be more friction per given area on the smaller pad...it's just basic physics. But if you increase the applied pressure to the larger pad it will then have more friction for a given area.

Aussie260z, There is a guy by the name of Terry Oxandale (Blueoval @ HYBRIDZ)who has written articles on a couple of different brake conversions for the early type Z cars (240, 260, 280), using Datsun/Nissan parts. He provides details for what he calls his Street conversion as well as a Race conversion. I actually did his Street conversion on my 1970 240Z and couldn't be happier with the results, without spending the big dollars necessary for the way cool aftermarket brake upgrades. The only things I did, on top of Terry's Street conversion, was to use some really good pads along with S.S. flex line to the calipers. You might want to check out his website.....you can usually find it by typing just his name (Terry Oxandale) into what ever search engine you use. I know I'm a happy camper now, when it come to stopping my Z.

EricB, I think your point is very logical and should be a starting point however, since your engine is less than stock and the other engine you mentioned is stock I would tend to start out a bit on the fat (rich) side for jet selection so you don't risk overcooking new parts with a too lean mixture. Of course a too rich has its drawback as well. Have you decused this issue with anyone who has extensive experience tuning carbs, to get you in the proverbial ballpark? (I'm no expert, but was blessed with at least an ounce of sense!) Let me know what transpires!

At your local auto parts store they should have stuff called radiator flush. I'm sure there are numerous suppliers, but generally you drain the cooling system, refill it with water, run the engine until it reaches normal operating temp (with the radiator cap off), then you add the radiator flush, let it run for some amount of time, then drain the sytem. After you replace the water pump, refill you cooling system with a mix (ratio will depend on your location) of distilled water, anti-freeze, and possibly a wetting agent with anti-corrosion additives. To be more correct you should read the instructions, but this should give you an idea of what involved! If you go though this exercise, at least when your done you will know your cooling system is in good shape.

Jayru, If you are thinking about doing the water pump, you may want to consider flushing out the cooling system before you remove the pump so your entire cooling system can benifit, in addition to the new pump! Just a thought!

Victor...........no I don't know (good question however), as I was only interested in the vaccum advance model. It may be available on their spec sheet...that is if one ccan locate it!

Mike, thanks for the additional specifics!

Here's the part number for a Mallory Unilite distributor, L6 engine............MAL-4763901 (NOTE: they are available with and without vaccum advance)

Larry, I believe the wood block you are talking about is intended to keep the timing chain secured (by wedging it in place) and properly indexed to the crank drive sprocket during partial disassembly. There is an automatic chain tensioner that addresses timing chain stretch, located on the non drive side of the timing chain, in the front aluminum casting. Some of the after market repair manuals provide details on its fabrication. Is this help at all?

Thanks for the added comments Vicky. TomoHawk, you should definitely leave your Z stock and resist any urge to venture beyond your capabilities!!!

Geeee, do you think the design engineers at Nissan had a good reason for where they placed the sensor? :stupid:

How about a CF tail light panel assembly! Not anywhere near an original look, but pretty cool looking by my standards.....wait a minute, I have no standards. I actually have one of these assemblies coming for my 1970! I think it will add a really nice touch to my ride...you know, a little mix of the old and new. Kind of like the rest of my Z.

Are you saying your rear suspensione has been modified beyond a stock setup? I'm guessing here, that what your mechanic is calling a suspension housing, is the strut housing assembly. I don't believe you will need to change yours out, but you will need to figure out what length insert (shock) you need. Do some searching of the archieves for more definite answers to your question...the answers are there!

Regarding the price of a Mallory Unilite from MSA....they are overcharging by about $250.00 (U.S.)!!! I purchased one from Summit Racing for about $350.00 and recieved it in less than a week. The unit works flawlessly. I have it in my 1970, along with a MSD Blaster coil and Magnacore KV85 wires. When Mallory first came out with these units, they had some reliablity issues, but that was back then. The old problem is not an issue anymore. Beside working really well, they just look way cool...machined from billet aluminum with nice red cap...for what ever thats worth!!? If anyone is interested I will dig out the Unilte part number for them tonight when I get home from work.

Lambo doors on a Z car, give me a break! Have any of you seen how flimmsy these doors look when opened. They kind of wave in the breeze.

How about having the body shop that removed them, complete the job and reinstall them. Did they think the tail light assemblies were just going to grow new ones or something! :tapemouth

Your first clue to your problem should be......you own a 32 year old car!!! Additionally, without anyone knowing the current condition and service history on your car, you might as well ask a rock for answers. If your car is prone to over heating, its definitely a cooling system problem. Let's see...you have a radiator, radiator cap, hoses, thermostat, temperature sensor/gauge, water pump, water pump drive belt, fan assy, coolant, a heater core/valves and an engine the coolant is supposed to cirulate through and draw heat from . This should give you enough information for a good starting point! Let us know how it turns out.