240ZX

All I've got to say is..........there was way too much rain!!!!! But that's endurance racing for ya! Tom

John, Welcome aboard!!! You've come to the right place for early Z info. Everyone here is friendly with many very knowledgible folks as well. Be advised....become familiar with the SEARCH function, as just about any question you might think of has likely been answered before. Enjoy! Tom

It's a matter of trial/error......however, its best to adjust the dial so the ball is positioned approximately midway in the tube. As you have likely discovered, you can't leave the Unisync on the mouth of the carb for too long. Anyway, hope this helps you out a little! Tom

Provided one has the time, skills, and resources ($).....your method seems to be an excellent one! Good old craftsmanship and clever thinking are hard to beat. Tom

If the above-idle throttle position is good......basically runs well but, idles low, then just turn the idle adjust screw in a little to bring your idle up. Tom

Hmmmmmmmmmm...any true Datsun guy wouldn't be a BMW parts specialistLOL. Rgarding the tat.....each to his own, I say but, glad it's your back and not mine!!! Tom

You are certainly on the right track.......the throttle surge thing is a common issue. I believe it's a combination of increased tolerances (from regular use) and the angles of the lingage relative to the bell crank. When I was redoing my 1970, I had quit a bit of slop where the rotating portion of the linkage bears against the bushing at the rear. I actually rebored the bushing so it was concentric and then welded on a sleeve over the existing end of the rotating shaft to fit the rebored bushing. I ajusted the linkage as far as I could to get as close to the angles you read about in the article on this problem. Finally, I insured all points on the linkage, that move or bear against one another, were lubricated.....the end result was a very smooth and almost linear throttle responce. Note: I did not have to modify the bell crank to accomplish the task. One last thing to check are your engine mounts. If the drivers side is shot, the engine will lift and effect the throttle linkage. Hope the helps you out a little! Tom

You are correct in the fact that you will need to trim the front of the shifter through hole in the tranny tunnel.....without triming, the shifter will hit the front edge of the opening when attempting 5th gear. At least that was my experience on my 3/70 240. Regarding the inner boot, I suppose one could use the OEM inner boot if you added the same amount of material you removed from the front of the opening to the rear of the opening...essentially maintaining the same size opening. I choose to fab up my own inner boot assembly......don't even ask what I did, as it is a bit anal and likely overkill. Tom

Bill, I've installed the same white face gauge kit on my 1970! Let me put it this way, if you are lacking patients and are not good with detail work, you will likely wind up speaking to God a number of times. It's not that difficult a job but, the adhesive is really good and if you don't get the overlays aligned up correctly the first time, the odds of pulling the overlay off without damaging it is low! When installed sucessfully however, you will be a happy camper! Tom

Thank you for correcting my CRS!!!!

As Arne mentioned, the most important item to be sure of is the "release bearing collar assembly". You want the one thats the same as the one originally used with the B 5 speed tranny. the length is different than the 240 4 speed collar. Tom

All I have to say is.........the next generation TOAD! The only why this car would look good, IMO, is in full race trim....but then again, any car in full race trim would look good! So sad! Tom

Adding to what's been already posted; what an incredible information resource and the good people who have contributed to the information pool! Tom

Mark, there are the rare occasions, at the rear, when I get near maxiumum bump that the very outer edge of the tire kisses the inside of the fender. However, it has not been a concern since it only happens every once in a while and the resulting kisses between the tire and the fender do not incur anything more than a very thin rub mark on the tire....which you wouldn't even notice unless you looked very close. No cutting of the tire, just a very small rub mark that hasn't caused any tire damage. If by chance I had rear tires bigger than the 235-40 x 17" I'm running, then I would have a problem! Tom

Andy, You've not included very much information, regarding your rattle noise. Any reply would be a SWAG at best! Tom

Surprising enough, the wheels are the same spec as the ones on my 240. I'm running 17 x 8 (f) & 17 x 9 ® both with 35mm offset. I fabricated spacer, in conjunction with 3" long studs (replacing the stock stud). I have stock fenders with no flares. Tom

I'm no expert but, the manifold does not look like any Z car maniflod I've ever come across. Look at the balance tube assembly......looks to be a bit different to me! However, the Su's are certainly of the 4 screw type. Anyone care to elaborate? Tom

Looks to be a bit high on the asking price to me! Pretty much a basket case.

Mike, An old tried and true method is to advance your timing until you experience detonation (pinging) and then retard it a couple of degrees. Just a thought! Tom

Jason, Have you search the archive? I'm sure there is a load of info about compression ratios for all L28 engine models. Give it a go! Tom

David, That's a pretty general question, and not knowing any other info on your Z makes a specific answer next to impossible. But generally speaking, many typically have a 25mm (f) and a 19mm ®....(1" & 3/4"). Hope this helps a bit! Tom

If your cooling system components are as old as the car, your over heating issue is more than likely caused from years of corrosion build-up. The corrosion I'm talking about is a thin rust colored film that builds up on the entire cooling system....radiator, pump, and the internal cooling passages in the engine. It doesn't look like much of anything when you see it but, it forms a nice insulation layer......preventing the transfer of heat from the engine to the coolant. Coolant will flow freely but, will not tranfer engine heat as efficiently. I had the same issue long ago. It may just be time to overhaul your entire cooling system. There are product that will remove this layer of corrosion.

It is certainly a sad deal when one looses a family member and I understand your grief. However, as mentioned by Jon, the dog apparently was in the street and in most cities this would be considered a violation of the leash law. Leaning curves are sometimes steep! So, let us step back, attenuate the simpathy, and look at the real root of the problem. Tom

Saro, Identifying the manufacture is next to impossible without some sort of marking. However, what may be benefitial for you to know is, the wire diameter, number of coils, and the free length of the springs. With this information you can find like springs from multiple sources. Hope this helps you move forward a bit. Tom

Just as a precaution, you might want to check the condition of the advance mechanism on the L28 distributor....they are known to fail with age. Tom