240ZX

IMO, Armor-All does exactly the opposite of what it tells you it will do! It seem to suck the life out of vinyl, not refurbish it. Oh yah, it looks good when you put it on, but as mentioned previously, once you stop using it you're in for trouble. Not a recommended product. My 2 cents worth..........

Thanks for posting the part number for the Mallory Unilite Keith! And if I remember correctly, this is the unit with vacuum advance. Defenitely a nice touch for the engine compartment.....I sure do like mine!

Mickie, If you have local sources for the RB26DETT and not for the SBC, definately go for the RB. I guess it all boils down to cost, because both motors can deliver plenty of HP. In the states, most will go with the SBC due to cost and availability of parts. But hey....an RB26DETT would be way kool, yes???

Craig, when I was doing the electronic ignition conversion I first wanted to go with the ZX distributor but had trouble finding one that wasn't worn out. Tried rebuilt units but all 3 units tested the same.....the centrifical weight mechanism were worn out. I got tired of looking so I finally went with the Mallory Unilite. I had heard the same stories about them but was set straight on that issue......there were some reliability problems with the early issued units. However, the current units are very reliable. I have had zero issues with the Unilite since I installed it in 2000. Looks good too!!! If anyone is looking to buy a Unilite, buy it from SUMMIT RACING. Their price is about $150.00 less than MSA! I'll have to look tonight for the part number and post it tomorrow.

James, I don't know if I would call it the best way, but I just used compressed air after washing the inside with solvent. I also fed a SS wire down the lines to make sure they were clear. Hope this helps a bit. Remember to check for debris in your tank as well!

Just a little reminder on cleaning your fuel and brakes lines. Double check to insure all lines are clear of stuff that may restrict fluid flow. No sence in doing all that work to make them look good, install them, and then discover there is some sort of restriction in the line. Better to clean twice and install once!!! Also, regarding the fuel circuit....double check your fuel tank for old build up and or debris. The tank is usually the source of stuff restricting proper fuel flow, as it travels down your REALLY CLEAN lines. Again, just a friendly reminder!

Craig is correct with what he said about fuel pressure and SU carbs. As I understand it, it's a matter how much pressure and how long the needle/seat can properly regulate fuel coming into the float bowl, when subjected to pressures beyond their design limits. As an example....if the needles/seats, on an SU, were designed to handle 30 psi, we would be using pumps that meet that need. What do you think guys?

beandip, the answer to your question is yes. That is the reason I went to a gear type pump. I got fed up with the constant thumping, buzzing, what everyou want to call the sound that the articulating pumps make. I even went to the trouble of using an isolation type mounting, but the damn think was still too noisey!!! Mind you, the gear type pumps are not silent. However, once the L28 is running, I can no longer hear the fuel pump. I can live with that.

3 to 4 psi is all you'll want for carbs. I've been using Mallory unit however, I have the early SU carbs and have replumbed the fuel lines on the engine...no more ugly stock fuel lines with the orifice type resticker fuel regulation. Take a look at my picture gallery. I'm also using a Mallory gear type pump mounted next to the fuel tank.

Try going to TIRERACK's web site ( or similar site) and do the regular search for that size tire, there are many to choose from. Hope this help some!

Suggestion #1 - Round Suggestion #2 - Rubber Well...........I just couldn't resist!!! omegaz, you may want to supply a few more details....like, wheel size/width, gearing, and maybe how you intend to drive the car. :surprised

Steve, without knowing the true miles on the car (65K 165K, or 265K???) how much rust is present, condition of the bushings, drivetrain condition, and doing an actual visual inspection by one familiar with Z cars, one can only quess at your cars value. You might just try selling it for what you payed for it, as a starter. Where in California are you located? If you are not to far away you could drive it by and I'll take a look at it. I'm located in Ventura County. You can send me a private message.

Gary, you're one of the few guys I've seen post this information and I couldn't agree with you more. I viewed a post earlier today on Hybridz and this guy included a nice picture of he workmanship on redoing his Z. Guess what, he had completely replumbed his brake lines and clutch line with copper!!! I kindly recommended to him he reconsider and then explained to him about copper workhardening. I quess if people are unaware, it might seem OK, but what they don't know is that they are playing with fire. :stupid: I quess thats why these car sites are so valuable to the car owners attempting to work on their own cars.

Hi Tom, The answers to your questions can best be answered if you visit the HYBRIDZ site. They are very much into engine conversions. This sites focus however does not lend itself to these issues......as a matter of fact, some on this site will poo poo on you for even thinking about changing out the L6 motor for another. We have a wealth of knowledge available on this site about the early Z cars.....but be advised, "engine conversion" can be a dirty word around here....at least to some! I have to confess, when I started in with my rebuild of my 1970 (s/n HLS3002126) I had plans to transplant a Ford 302 into my Z. I wanted a car that would remind me of my highschool days....I had a 1965 Mustang that was fairly peppy. My best time at the drags was 14.00 @ 100.3 mph...not bad for a mildly modified Mustang with an automatic trans. Anyway, back to the Z car, I decided, due to the amount of $$$ I was pumping into the Z, to dress up the L6 motor since it only had about 40,000 miles on it and put it in until such time came to do the 302. Well, let's put it this way........the L6 is still in the car and I don't believe it will ever be changed out for another motor. Why you may ask, it has to do with the original personality of the Z, the sweet sound of the inline 6 cylinder, and I know myself too well.....if I had big HP in my Z I would defenitely use it, which translates into tickets that I don't need. Currently I have a 2800cc L6 motor from a 280Z (N42) with the original intakes and SU carbs. With the minor mods I've done I estimate I have about 160 HP at the flywheel.....plenty of power to have loads of fun with. I did however, do extensive modifications to the suspension and brakes so it would stick like glue through corners. Like I tell people who ask about how much I like my toy...."It's so much fun to drive, it should be regarded as illegal". Anyway, give HYBRIDZ a try. Good luck Tom! Another Z car nut, Tom (240ZX)

Jason, Your explaination is pretty vauge! If you can be more specific, assisting you may be easiers. When going through this exercise, you have to make sure you have covered all the basic tune-up things like timing, plugs, valve adj., etc., etc. If you think you have a vaccum leak, try spraying someting like starter fluid (remember its flamable) around the manifold gasket area. If the RPM increases when you spraying the starter fluid, you've got a leak. Now comes the fun parts...fixing it!!!

Sorry to poop your bubble here....but based on your explaination (i.e., turn one wheel and the other rotates the other direction) you have the standard open differential.

OOOOOOOOPs

You are correct.....but not where I come from! On my planet {wives} translates to....a skin problem aquired from having too many wifes.

I'm an alien visitor, from the 4th quadrant, beyond the Gzxionia system. My mission, here on the third rock, is to accumulate enough data to varify our desire to reside here. Through the decades, I have encounterd many strange customes and practices, especially the humans facination with automobiles. Continually, in my reports, I suggest that there is no logical reason to inhabit this small and very hostile but quaint planet. However, one day approximately three decades ago I discovered the humans had created this most interesting automobile. They even gave it a secret code. It's code name is 2, 4, 0, Z. Somehow this human machine promotes the same feelings as when I have xes with my ten wifes!! Amazingly enough to this day the humans painstakingly take great pride in owning these fasinating machines. So, I purchased one of these machines, brought it back to life and am now convinced there is a valid reason to be here. My next report will read...."I'm staying!!! And tell my ten wifes a Z car is by far easier to live with and certainly more pleasurable than they are....period!!! See ya!"

I,m getting a real out of this post! There is no rocket science involved in the Z car brake system, it's just basic hydraulics being applied. I have to agree with Miles, there's a lot of misinformation being posted. What miles said is correct. Carl is have a hard time here, so many things are happening!? That OK buddy, we still love you and your brakes will work even if you don't understand the system completely. (I'm trying to humor you here Carl). Is everyone on the same page yet? :classic: