240ZX

Well jon1fox, Sounds like the old corrosion monster has finally overwhelmed your electrical system. This is a common thing with the older Z's. The basic problem is that corrosion has gotten so bad especially the connectors, that it creates high resistance in the circuits and like yours has gotten so bad that the wiring can no longer handle the current and then a wire fries. So, now you will likely become very familiar with the electrical system on an early Z, if you choose to tackle the problem yourself. So you want to ask yourself.....do I have the skills, knowledge, and tools required to do the task? If you do, you already know what's ahead. If you don't feel confident in doing it yourself, take it to someone who is very familiar with these systems. It is time consuming to trouble shoot and will cost you some $$$. Sorry to hear about your Z but there are no easy answers to pin point your problem, in my opinion. Hopefully, some of the guys here will pitch in with some additional advise. Good luck!

Thanks for the prompt reply. To be a little more specific on what I am hoping for would be as follows: Main hoop to attach behind the seats on the beefy part of the pan, Rear diagonal support from the main hoop down to the strut towers, a cross support between the two diagonal supports (tower to tower), and a diagonal support from the main hoop (drivers side) down to the main hoop attach point (passenger side). As I understand it, besides rollover protection, this setup will reduce the rear chassis flex that typically causes the classic "C" pillar cracks. I'm quessing that if an assembled one was shown in a nice color picture, they might sell quite well. I know I would be sending off a check for one. Thanks again Aanand

Aanand, Regarding the bolt-in rollcage from Rick Freeman @ Rebello, can you post a couple of pics of the cage? I'm would be interested in one. I'm mostly concerned with the attach points to the chassis. Most of the rollbars I've seen (Autopower) attach to the fender well sheetmetal. This never made much sense to me. Thanks in advance!!! Tom

Come on guys, someone loves this car!!! ROFL The owner is not likely to identify theirself after they read these posts! Let's face it, some people's taste is in their mouth.:tapemouth Like Arizona240z said, at least it's not a Z

ZmeFly's question is a good one to ask yourself! Personally, I agree with him on handling. With the modifications I've done to my 240, it now goes around corners really well! Lightyears better than it ever did in stock trim. Here's what I did to my Z. All struts shortened 1 1/2", GC coilovers with 200 lbs x 10" up front and 275 lbs x 8" in the rear, urethane bushings throughout, GC street camber plates on all four corners. Tokico non-adjustables, strut tower braces front and rear, 1" front 3/4" rear anti-rollbars, 1" bumpsteer spacers, and quik-steer steering arms. Now, your average person would say it's way to harsh of a ride (especially with 40 series 17s), but if you desire the ride of an SUV....buy an SUV!!! If you want a car that really corners.............then mod your Z to handle and you will likely never be concerned about the extra stiffness. You will however, enjoy an incredible amount of fun stuffing it into and around corners. NOTE: DON'T FORGET TO UPGRADE YOUR BRAKES!!!

Oh yahhhhhhhhhhh!!! I also watched the E PROD race and was really excited to see some old 240's kicking butt on newer iron, especially Greyson who seemed to be the strongest runner until he got a little too excited in one corner.......can you say, oops!!! I'm sure his verbage was a bit different than oops however. Oh well, P2 is not quit like P1 but better than a DNF. Loved it!!!!!

For what it's worth, and I am not an expert on race engines, some engine builders believe that if the engine has been built correctly it should be broken in the way you intend to use it once you have oil pressure and operating temp. Reasoning behind this method is............as we all know, the higher the RPM the more the components grow due to heat and inertia (example: The higher the rpm, the more the rods will grow in length). So, if you break an engine in at say 3000 rpm and the rings take a set at that given rpm then what do you think will happen when you go up to 6000 rpm? The rings try to travel past the ridge that was incurred from the 3000 rpm break in, and can consequently result in broken rings. Just something to consider Steve. You might want to give Dave Rebello (Rebello Racing) a call for his opinion. Good luck there buddy!!!

Here is my wish list: #1 - Shelby Dayton Coupe #2 - 427 FIA Cobra #3 - Need I continue!!?

OK, now that we're feeling humorus...........I'd say my Z is "Well done", as opposed to "Rare" or "Medium Well" It is however #2126.........not rare, but very yummy to drive!

Well.......... Have you visited Z Therapy's website? Please do!!!

Thanks 2ManyZs for posting the part number for the Unilite. I'll check the number tonight and post tomorrow.

Steve, Probably most all of the current electronic systems are more than satisfactory. The Nissan magnetic trigger distributors are good as long as you find one in good working order. If you can find a new one it will save you the hassel of repairing a boneyard model. Personally, I opted for simplicity and purchased the Mallory Uni-lite (optical trigger) distributor. There are no external units to hook up and or mount, just the wires that go to the coil and batt. If you are interested in this unit, purchase it from Summit Racing. Their price is about $125.00 less, than from the usual Z parts suppliers. I did a little investigation, aquired the Mallory part number, and then ordered it from Summit Racing for about $375.00 . Delivery is no quicker, but $125.00 is $125.00. I'll go back through my receipts for the p/n and post it.

Thanks guys, sounds like one hell of a hoot to me! The price is more than fair too. Well, I just might have to force myselfROFL to join in on the fun. Time will tell. Anyway, thanks to all for the info.

Regarding the open track day at Willow, what sort of car prep is required.....rollbar, fluid catch cans, etc., etc. Would definintely be a hoot to do a little track time in my 240. The last time I was at Willow Springs was back in the mid to late 80's when I was club racing my Ducati F1B. If I remember correctly I was turning 1:38s with the duck.

brianglawson, I went to the two sites you attached and found no NISMO seat on either site???? Anyway, seerex if you don't actually need NISMO seats the starting price on the E-bay seats wouldn't be out of line but I wouldn't pay more than $450.00 for them. Have you priced new seats lately? One thing you definitely want to know are the seat demensions......will they fit your application? Good luck!!!

280ZGOD Sounds like a familiar problem. How if my old brain serves me correctly, I remember having the same issue with my 1970 240Z. What it turned out to be was that the turn signal indicator switch on the steering column was worn out. The brake light circuit runs through this switch assembly. So, I replaced mine and all is well again. I think a new switch assembly is about $90.00 I purchased mine from Courtesy Nissan in Texas. Please don't take this as gospel.....sometimes us older guys have a hard time recalling things, is you know what I mean!!!