240ZX

For what it's worth, and I am not an expert on race engines, some engine builders believe that if the engine has been built correctly it should be broken in the way you intend to use it once you have oil pressure and operating temp. Reasoning behind this method is............as we all know, the higher the RPM the more the components grow due to heat and inertia (example: The higher the rpm, the more the rods will grow in length). So, if you break an engine in at say 3000 rpm and the rings take a set at that given rpm then what do you think will happen when you go up to 6000 rpm? The rings try to travel past the ridge that was incurred from the 3000 rpm break in, and can consequently result in broken rings. Just something to consider Steve. You might want to give Dave Rebello (Rebello Racing) a call for his opinion. Good luck there buddy!!!

Here is my wish list: #1 - Shelby Dayton Coupe #2 - 427 FIA Cobra #3 - Need I continue!!?

OK, now that we're feeling humorus...........I'd say my Z is "Well done", as opposed to "Rare" or "Medium Well" It is however #2126.........not rare, but very yummy to drive!

Well.......... Have you visited Z Therapy's website? Please do!!!

Thanks 2ManyZs for posting the part number for the Unilite. I'll check the number tonight and post tomorrow.

Steve, Probably most all of the current electronic systems are more than satisfactory. The Nissan magnetic trigger distributors are good as long as you find one in good working order. If you can find a new one it will save you the hassel of repairing a boneyard model. Personally, I opted for simplicity and purchased the Mallory Uni-lite (optical trigger) distributor. There are no external units to hook up and or mount, just the wires that go to the coil and batt. If you are interested in this unit, purchase it from Summit Racing. Their price is about $125.00 less, than from the usual Z parts suppliers. I did a little investigation, aquired the Mallory part number, and then ordered it from Summit Racing for about $375.00 . Delivery is no quicker, but $125.00 is $125.00. I'll go back through my receipts for the p/n and post it.

Thanks guys, sounds like one hell of a hoot to me! The price is more than fair too. Well, I just might have to force myselfROFL to join in on the fun. Time will tell. Anyway, thanks to all for the info.

That's a good one Dave, ROFL but an old one!!! So, how do you know it's bed time at Micheal Jackson's house??? When the big hand is on the little handROFL :stupid:

Regarding the open track day at Willow, what sort of car prep is required.....rollbar, fluid catch cans, etc., etc. Would definintely be a hoot to do a little track time in my 240. The last time I was at Willow Springs was back in the mid to late 80's when I was club racing my Ducati F1B. If I remember correctly I was turning 1:38s with the duck.

brianglawson, I went to the two sites you attached and found no NISMO seat on either site???? Anyway, seerex if you don't actually need NISMO seats the starting price on the E-bay seats wouldn't be out of line but I wouldn't pay more than $450.00 for them. Have you priced new seats lately? One thing you definitely want to know are the seat demensions......will they fit your application? Good luck!!!

280ZGOD Sounds like a familiar problem. How if my old brain serves me correctly, I remember having the same issue with my 1970 240Z. What it turned out to be was that the turn signal indicator switch on the steering column was worn out. The brake light circuit runs through this switch assembly. So, I replaced mine and all is well again. I think a new switch assembly is about $90.00 I purchased mine from Courtesy Nissan in Texas. Please don't take this as gospel.....sometimes us older guys have a hard time recalling things, is you know what I mean!!!

Dreco, Here's what I've done on my 240. I've attached the shoulder belts, drivers side and passenger side, to one of the three bolts that secures the top of each rear strut towers. It's in a very good location directly behind each seat and is a very secure attachment. You may have to increase the length of the bolt slightly. Be sure to use bolts of appropriate strenght....no cheap hardware for safety equipment!!!

Try typing in "Dellorto carburators" in your computer search engine.

Sounds like you need to do a little maintenance on your latch mechanism. The latch is actuated via a pull cable, as you have probably figured out by now. Anyway, disassemble the latch, inspect it for cracks, repair if necessary, reassemble, lube it, clean and lube the pull cable. It should be operational now. Be thankful your hood was not in the closed and "won't open" position. This is just a simple mechanical mechanism, not rocket science. Good luck and tell us how it turned out.

Steve, The early cross-member looks like yours, but eliminate the barrel shaped bushings that mount to the chassis and imagine a flat flange that bolts directly to the chassis. So, the early units only have one method for isolation....the later units provide isolation via the rubber mount and the barrel bushings at either end of the cross-member. Does this help at all

quansta, Your question is just to general to provide you an answer. You might want to do is do a little research on this site and other Z car sites. There are forums that discuss technical issues on just about anything you can imagine, regarding setup and modifications to the Z car. Be aware, in order for someone to provide you with a good answer to your question, they would need to know the details of your engine, is it stock, any internal modification like a hotter cam, what's your induction system, etc., etc. We see these questions all the time here. So, spend a little time and do some homework. It's always a good education and you will discover that with the knowledge you gain you will be answering alot of your own questions. Also, when you do get ready to have your head worked on, take it to a shop who is familiar with the Z motors and have the knowledge and experience of doing proper porting/polishing and or decking jobs. To give you an idea of cost, you can be looking at about $850.00. I'm sure there are shops that will do it for less or for more but, it's not a cheap exercise if you want a good job done.

Carl, Are you sure you didn't get that story from one of Larry Flint's publications??? ROFL Come on now, fess up you perv. Have you guys checked out Carl's photo album............he's the only guy here with pictures of just girls!!! (Great pics however) Just having fun with ya Carl. Great story. Somehow I think I would have been marching up stairs.

You guys are OK!!! Thanks for the history lesson. So basically, when you are ragging on your mates it's just a sign of affection. Yah, I guess that's a universal thing. Thanks again....

Zedrally, I'm don't know what ANZAC spirit is but I think the light is coming on here. Thanks for the bit of history. Please feel free to elaborate on this subject a little more if you will. We all like to learn new things.