240ZX

Adam, I think your best bet, to avoid damaging the new paint, would be to use flat washers. If you are concernd about maintaining the torque on the fasteners you might want to visit the website I posted, just so you will feel good about using flat washers. Believe me, I understand your desire to keep the new paint unblemished! Happy hunting! Tom

For anyone that is seriuosly interested in learning more up to date information on lock washers and locking devices should visit the following website.(www.boltscience.com/pages/vibloose.htm) It provides a clear expalination on how these devices work. And John, I always respect your knowledge and input but this time I believe you need to update yourself on lock washers. Technically speaking lock washer lock via adding friction to prevent lossening of a fastener...not by spring force as you suggest.

Either split or star type lock washers do their locking job by bighting into the surfaces they bear against. If you add a nylon washer between the lock washer and the bearing surface, painted surface in this case, then the lock washer will not bight....unless of course it penitrates the nylon washer, in which case you have defeated the purpose of put a nylon washer on to begin with. Lock washer do not lock via providing outward pressure!

Using a nylon washer, as mentioned earlier, pretty much negates a bolt's ability to maintain a torque setting, since the washers are of a relatively soft material. Again, if used in an area requiring low torque specs you're probably fine. Applying a small dab of low strength Lok-Tite on the threads is also a recommendation.

Man, I've been searching for one of these splash pans for my 1970 for a while and have resulted zippo!!! So, anyone with a lead on finding and purchasing one, please notify me.....It would be greatly appreciated! Tom

Black..........!

My take on RICERS! Certainly another niche for car enthusists. Sure some of there rides look funny to some of us but, one thing is for sure...they are at least into cars! Maybe this Ricer thing is similar to the generation gap thing....anyone with some age knows what I'm refering to! Most of them are just young kids with little $$$ and probably less knowledge about cars but, they know they need a trick looking car to be cool. So lets be a little more understanding about the Ricers. Who knows, they may one day mature into folks like use...... Besides, some of their cars are quite entertaining to see and listen to. Consider it free entertainment. Being different than the status-quo always brings on resistance.

I'll second Chris's comment!!! All I will say is...if anyone is trying to educate themself on the early Z car, your learning curve will greatly be reduced by using the wealth of info on this site.....I know from first hand experience when redoing my 1970. Tom

You can take the old O-ring to a local hydraulics shop and they can match it up!

Yea, sometimes its really sucks but, the good side of is that when I do get a drive in, its REALLY fun! Just last week I refreshed the rubber on the Z and boy, I have forgotten what a difference new rubber makes in the ride quality....butter!!!

The worst problem I've ever had with my Z is......don't get to drive it enough!!!

Toby, As a relatively new member, are you aware of the search function to access the archive of Z info? It has info on just about any mod one would likely do to their Z. Another source is Hybridz's website.....lots of technical info too! To answer your question about the Tokico HP dampers....yes you can use them with a coilover set-up. Also, compared to just lowering springs the coilover set-up provides endless ride height adjustment as well as additional tire/wheel clearance on the inboard side.

I completely agree with Will's input about this site......very happening!!! My other choice for great info, especially modifications and race prep info, is Hybridz! Tom

I have speedo issues as well. I've got the 82-83 5 spd, 4.10 gears and 235-40x17 rear tires/wheels. Knowing that the tranny has the cog for 3.90 diff and the relatively small diameter tires with 4.10 gears certainly provides an incorrect readout on the speedo....I've just gotten used to the fact that its off by some 20% to 30% and drive accordingly. Its an easy fix to swap to a cog for 4.10 gearing but with my tire size it will still be off to some degree, plus Its just not on my priority #1 list. I think I've read that the 4.10 cog may require changing out the assembly the cog is mounted to as well, due to more offset but I'm not certain. Anyone have a varification on this?

TomoHawk, I concur with your post completely!!!!! It as though some of these singers are employed at a bargin price, or at least their performance might lead one to believe so. Your point about respect for our national anthem is spot on. Just sing the song in the fashion it was met to be sung....no worbbling, no restructuring of the melody, and for sure get someone who can actually hit and hold those high notes! Now out of respect for EScanlon, yes there are singers who do a terrific job but I believe the point TomoHawk is making is about the ones that suck!

I still get a kick out of looking at the gum scrappers and turned up pipes on some of the older sedans....kind of comical!!! Thanks for the pics!

Its very reassuring to see that more of you younger guys are into these old Z cars. Shoot, alot of times some of the younger car guys aren't real sure what a Datsun 240Z is, let alone recognize one! For sure you guys have an eye for the old school sexy lines of the Z and are not the typical fashion followers of todays sport compact crowd. Very happening I must say!!! I've owned my 240Z for 23 years and its just as appealing now as the first time I saw one back in 1970, when I was senior in high school. Oooops, I'm dating myself!

I don't suspect there are any made to fit a Z however, modifications to aftermarket units may do the trick. They would likely be a nice addition for drives with the window down.

From the size of the nut it looks as though, like Blake said, it may be one of your strut fastening nuts! It seems very odd and highly unlikely that a nut that size found its way onto the throttle stop.....and it could have only gotten there with the throttle open! I smell fish too!!!

Thanks for your reply on this post Jim!

During my experience installing a full dash cap, I had it on and off many times before I was satisfied with the fit....a little trim here and there to get everything in good alignment. None of them fit perfectly without a little tweeking. Then, when you are ready for the final attachment, set the dash cap out in the sun for a few hours to soften it up a bit. Have a roll of duct tape handy as this is how I held mine in place while the silcone cured. Remember, don't over apply the silicone! Use just enough to secure the dash cap securely. As I remember, the installation instructions warn you of this issue because the dash cap must be able to expand and contract after it is installed and the silicone is cured. By the way, I did the install without the addition of an extra person. Just take your time....if you hurry through the install you may regret it later. Good luck dnicol!

Certainly 50mm SUs do flow more however, with only the addition of a mild cam and a slight compression increase you will likely only need a little rejetting on the round tops. I know of people who are running 50mm SUs but, they are on extensively modified 2.8L and 3.0L L6 motors. Tripple Webers or Dellortos, given the correct sizes, will improve permormance. Initial set-up is certainly a little more involved than SUs but, when properly tuned they will net you very nice throttle responce...more $$$ of course! If you want some tips on improving your L6, convert your ignition over to the electronic type and circle file the points. Also, a lightweight flywheel will improve the reving capability of the engine. Additionally, swap out your 4 spd for a 5 spd as well as changing the differential gearing to match the 5 spd. The list goes on and on. In the archives, accessible with the search function, you will find just about any answer to a question regarding the Z and modifications. Sometimes finding the correct term to type in for the search is the hardest part. Good luck with your project. Time, money, and patients is all that is necessary!

Hey Jon, just a thought on the subject of heat shields. As you mentioned about the aluminum....it heats up and cools down quicker than SS but the SS will retain the heat longer than an aluminum will ever though it may take longer to heat up. Eventually the SS will heat up and create a heat radiator. So the question is, which material will keep the radiated heat from the carbs the best? I would think that the aluminum may be a better choice since it does dissapate heat quicker. What I'm suggesting is that any airflow, form a fan or from the air turbulance in the engine bay, across an aluminum heat shield will carry away heat better than the SS and consiquently provide less radiated heat to the carbs. Just some thought for discussion! Of course, a nice CF heat shield would even be better!!?

Have you checked the state of tune on the webers lately?

Just let it go boys! Remember, this is all about Zs......not playing mommy and daddy.