240ZX

To add to what Rob has said, after you wipe it down with the 30W....stick it in a big thick plastic bag and through in a few packs of desecant (moisture absorbing stuff) and then seal the bag. Should be good for quite a while!

I'll have to second the Rebello recommendation! Dave and his crew do some damn nice work. Dave went through my SU's (punched out to 50mm) and when I got them back....well lets just say they looked like jewellery and far too nice to mount on the side of an engine! Deffinitely a #1 place to have new life placed back in your L6 motor.

Yah, Ford made a C4 tranny (3 speed). They used it with the 260, 289, & 302 motors early on. You know Vic, I think TomoHawk is coming around. Wait a minute....that would spoil the fun factor. We still love ya TomoHawk! Don't let my poking fun at you ruffle your feathers.

When I said C4, I was refering to explosives! Are you telling me you actually figured out the problem by your lonesome....there is hope for you! :surprised

Have you thought about going to a motorcycle shop and purchasing some fork oil? I would recommend using 10W or 15W.

Maybe your muffler bearing are worn out! Have you changed the air in your tires lately? I suppose as a last resort you could use a little C4! Gosh, I'm out of ideas! Sure hope this helps you out!

I get the same message......"File has been damaged". No workie!!! Damn, I wanted to read it.

The results are similar to having no gas in your fuel tank....it won't work. Air in a brake system has a funny way of compressing and not moving the pistons in the calipers or slave cylinder on drum brakes. It is standard practice to purge (bleed) the M/C of all air before bleeding the calipers or slave cylinders. Regarding the sequence for the wheel cylinders, start with the cylinder furthest from the M/C and work your way though to the closest.

I concur! This is good advise. Had the same issue when I changed over my brake system. Adjusted the rod and had brakes!!!

So Carl, you did see some humor in my story about the Mexican food! Your a pal!

Damn, its almost a shame to cover up those beauties with K&Ns!

Stephen, Nice pics for sure...thanks for sharing. By the way, is your front valence looking the way it is because of a....... bump and run manuever??? Damn back markers anyway!!!

Dude! Like you gotta back down on the herb intake. Are you talking about teeth like on a P40 Flying Tiger plane? I hope not. :tapemouth Just funnin you buddy!

Congrats on the purchase of your Z! The best place I know of for information on V8 conversions in Z cars is HYBRIDZ. The HYBRIDZ web site has an astounding amount of knowledgeble members as well as tons of information in their post archives. They are all about putting V8 (and other engines) in Z cars. It will be well worth your while!

Hi Vic, I once tried a K&N filter in my shorts, after a heavy dose of Mexican food, but blew the filter element right out......K&N filters are great but not impervious to really hot gas!!! If you know what I mean! Just kidding of course!

Looks just fine! Only improvement would be a trip to the chrome plater. I also intended to do what you did but went with the round K&Ns and the TWR velocity stack (sold by MSA). As Craig mentioned, the filter element on the round K&Ns is a little difficult to install, but if you slightly squeeze it into an oval, it will slip right over the two long outer plate mounting studs and velocity stacks.....won't effect the filter element, as long as you are careful not to poke a hole in it.

You know the purists are about to bombard you with insults Victor! I think it looks perfect.....looks just like it belongs there! I'm sure its good for at least 20 more horsepower...... I just had to throw that comment in Victor....it's that male affection thing you know? Bottom line....5 stars out of 5.

Ken, Welcome! I do not have the answer to your question however, on this site (and other Z sites as well) you can use the search function to surf through the archives. Pretty much every question for repair and or modification has been asked and done before, so as you can imagine, there are a load of answers. Hope this will help you in your sesarch for an answer....and again, welcome aboard!

Will is correct on his advise and I couldn't agree more. One other item of importance when welding.....remember that preparation and cleanliness is imperative for a good weld. Like Will says.....practice, practice, and more practice!!!

Yes, you can leave the tranny attached to the engine for install and or removal. The tranny has a circular lip type seal at the input and output shafts. There are also gasket type seals that are sandwiched between the sections of the tranny. Since you have it out, replace the lip seals anyway...they are cheap and easy to replace (that is if you know what to do).

As webdawg1 mentions, the use of a filter at the intake side of your fuel pump is a standard must do, no matter what condition your tank is in. For sure you will want to flush the tank numerous times to get ANY lingering stuff out! Regarding a better view to the inside of the tank, you can remove the round plate assembly that has the fuel level sender attached. You will have a better view of what the inside of your tank looks like. The sender plate assembly uses an O-ring to seal it. Get a new O-ring of proper size and lightly lube it with a silicone grease.....makes for easy reinstall and no leaks. One thing to remember, the pickup line in the bottom of the tank has no screen to stop derbis....so check and double check that all debris is out of the tank before putting it back in the car for use. Also, flush out all fuel lines going to carbs (or FI) and return lines going back to the tank, before attaching to the tank.

Doug, Another thing to check as well is the condition of your engine mounts. The drivers side (USA models) engine mount is more susceptible to failure, due to engine torque pulling it apart. If it has failed and allows the engine to rock to the right under acceleration.....it will add to your problem. Just something else to check!

Carl, you kill me! You took the words right out of my mouth!!! This Z was at the MSA show. Nice exicution on the mods. However, IMO, the front of the Z looks......well, less than desireable (politically correct description). Like Carl suggested, by a Toadz.....it will likely cost less.

Also, you will likely talk to God a few time during the exercise! If you are pulling the tranny out the bottom, just make sure the car is up high enough to get it out. And, be sure and be safe...use good sturdy jack stands on all four corners.

Word of caution when using a pipe wrench on the strut gland nut! Be carefull not to slip off the gland nut and ding the insert shaft......good way the F-up your day and the insert. :stupid: