240ZX

Chris, My hats off to you. You are truely a brave man, for sure a diehard Z guy, to take on this restoration!!! Now thats love if I've ever seen it. Its guys like you that help keep Z fever alive and well. Wishing you all the luck and patients. Tom P.S. If I lived a little closer I'd join your celebration, but Florida is just a bit out of my way!

Scott, Have you checked with any of the "Pick-a-parts" yards or possibly Courtesy Nissan in Texas (1-800-527-1909), or Midwest Z's. Call them and explain your situation. They will likely steer you in the right direction. There are numerous places to look for old Z car parts (search the net). If so inclined, you can fabricate a new one if you have the tools and expirience. I would think that other members will add some to this post....be patient!

I believe the unit pictured by Walter is in fact the proportioning valve, at least for the early Z cars that I'm familiar with. Mine has the same unit. Carl, the valve may not be connected to the front brakes directly, however, the line pressure to the front brakes and supplied to the input of the proportionong valve are the same pressure. Why? Because the diameter, travel, and applied force to the pistons in the master cylinder is the same. The pressure out of the proportioning valve is less than the input pressure....hence the proportioning. For the rear disc conversion, just remove the internal parts from the valve, as recommended. Works great for a street application.

Gawd, Just think for a minute what it would be like to drive that baby unabated! Oh, I'm getting faint..........

Excellent advise Stephen!!! I remember back, when redoing my 1970 tank, I had an intermitant fuel starvation problem, even after I had cleaned the inside of the tank numerous times. I finally went into the tank (with fuel in it) with a flexible bore scope and low and behold there was this little piece of stuff that would drift over the fuel pick-up line and stop the flow. Now removing the piece of stuff was another issue since the tank was installed. Oh well, live and learn.

Mike, It's a possibility that the ring may be made of SS. As an example...304 SS does have some magnetic properties, although not alot. One grade of SS (316L, used in medical tools and with alot of nickle content) has zero magntic properties because it has no carbon steel in it, as opposed to the 304 which has some. SS in the 400 series has even more carbon steel in it. And as one would suspect, the more carbon steel it has the more it will rust, although not as extreme as say A36 steel (very common structural steel). Anyway, I though this might help you all out. Just remember some grades of SS will rust and have magnetic properties.

Looking threw the auto trader last night, I came across a 1973 240Z for sale. I know zippo about the car but thought I would post it for anyone interested in calling on it. Southern California area...(562) 596-8920 The add reads; 1973 DATSUN 240Z, all orig, new int, exc paint, runs good, no smog required, at, $4500 obo

Who said anything about pulling an engine? 26th, are you trying to stir thinks up here? :laugh:

If what Chris said does not apply, then I would ask if you replaced your oil pump when you did your engine overhaul?

Well, you might want to be a little more specific about the actual key position (i.e., OFF, ACC., RUN, START). The pump should come on when you enter the RUN position. I'm not familiar with the EFI key switch assemblies, but think about it....if you have no fuel pressure (pump not operating) when attempting to start your engine, how do you suppose an engine will run without fuel? Again, in most cases, I believe the pump should be operating when the key has entered the run position. Someone else please add to this.

Just got off another car site and there was this posy about a US Service guy getting f'd over by a performance shop in Arizona.......name of the business is AMP Performance. Wow! I could hardly believe the support given to the poor guy. The post were coming in so fast that you could not even keep up with the read!!! I pitty (NOT!!!) the guys that own that shop. As they say...."What come around goes around. Has anyone seen this yet?

Hey Chris, My N42 has a mechanical fuel pump mounting boss. I wasn't aware that some L28's do not accommodate a mechanical fuel pump. Good info!

Are you getting married? Forget about the Z!!!! Just kidding. The L28, generally speaking, is the same as the L24 and will drop right in, just like the L24. Re: SU's....use the intakes and SU's from your L24, it's a common swap. Now as far as what you sould replace while the engine is out..........that depends upon how much you want to do, how much time you have, and how much you want to SPEND!!!! IMHO, considering your situation, stuff the L28 in and get it back on the road. When you have the time and inclination, do research on the subject. With access to the internet, you can get answers to any question about the Z cars you need answered. So, get married and worry about the Z car when the smoke clears. :tapemouth

It's a free country, do as you like. Most members here, I believe, are stedfast owners of original stock or slightly modified 6 cylinder Z cars. That's the reason we participate on this site. However, there is a site called Hybridz that focuses on Z cars with V8's and other transplanted engines. That's OK too if that's what you desire. Persuing input, regarding a V8 transplant in a Z car, on this site is going to get you alot of, well shall I say, interesting or otherwise different opinions. Trust me on this one!!! Anyway, if I may impose, do some homework (research) on the Z car before you jump off the deep end, for you never know now deep the water is until you look. As an owner of a 1970 240Z for 21 years, I can tell you these cars are a total hoot! And that's putting it mildly. Good luck with your adventure............