240ZX

Tanny, If you are going to run new wires for the rear speakers, use large gauge multi-strand wires. Doing this will insure better high frequency responce. The small gauge stuff that is typically used in a long run to a speaker will degrade the higher frequency responce. ( The longer the run, the more the degradation). That one reason why MONSTER CABLE uses such a big cable. Just some food for thought!!!

TexasZ, Before you install the head, you may want to lay a straight edge across the head just to make sure it is flat and true. Check it from end to end as well as across. Also, if it looks like its been milled down (resurfaced) check that it has not been milled too far. I've read that too much milling can cause problems with the cam tower height. There's a post some where on this!!? I don't know the details on it however. Just something to consider.

Victor, I saw a post some time ago that said it is available from J.C. Whittney. I will look through my notes at home for the part number on the item. Will be able to post it some time next monday (07-28-03).

dero, Just a suggestion.....save up some $$$ and get yourself a 82 - 83 280ZX 5 speed and 3.90 gears. You will be so happy you did. I found mine at a pic-a-parts for less than $200.00 and that included an R200 diff with 3.90 ratio. Of course I had to remove the parts myself. If you install only the 5 speed with your original gears, your gearing will be less than ideal. Good luck on your adventure.

Datfreak, Type in REBELLO RACING....it will take you to their site!

2ManyZ's is correct.....many have asked the same question. Review the posts, but in the mean time you may want to order up a set of new spindles, nuts, and locking pin assemblies. They are relatively inexpensive and will go back together pretty easy and it is likely that the old ones may get dorked up during removel. Nothing like having new parts on your baby!!! If you are installing urethane bushings in this location, it is helpful to grind a slight chamfer on the hub housing to facilitate sliding the rebushed control arm into place. It sure made it easier for me anyway! Good luck with your effort and let us know what happens.

Victor, This Sunday, in summerland, CCZCC is having a luncheon/meeting at the French Bulldog Coffee House @ 11:00 a.m.. I'm going to cruise up and join them. After the luncheon I will be cruising the back roads, back to my house. The address is: 2354 Lillie Ave. It's right next to ther 101 fwy. Maybe I'll see you there!?

Tom, The situation with the early Z throttle linkage can be improved. You should first do what 2manyZ's suggests. However, one of the real problems is 30 some years of wear that has taken it's toll. If you can get rid of as much play as you can in the linkage, use the adjustable links to position the bell crank properly, and slightly reduce the return springs tension you will end up with a throttle that feels and responds almost linear. I had the same problem you are talking about before I started my redo on my Z. Some time ago I found a post, written about 1970 something, by this engineer guy who went into great detail about this problem. Basically he said it had to do with the position of the bell crank, because when a bell crank is actuated by the driving rod (the one that comes through the firewall) the result of the driven rod (the one that parallels the firewall) the resultant travel of the driven rod is not linear to the driving rod....hence the strange throttle pedal feel. I actually had to read the post a number of times before I understood what he was talking about. Anyway, I found that most of the play in my linkage was from the very worn bushing that the rotating part of the linkage rides in and the end of the rotating rod that sits in the bushing. I couldn't figure out how to replace the bushing so I fabricated a new end for the rotating rod that was big enough to get rid of the play. I little bit of work to make it happen, but the end result was worth it. I did replace the stock return springs with stainless steel springs that have slightly less tension. Now my throttle works like you would hope a throttle would work.....smooth and linear. So, to some it up....get rid of the play in the linkage, lube it, and adjust the bell crank position. P.S. At one point I even considered installing a more modern throttle cable assembly, but as you might guess that involved even more fabrication of parts.

Victor, Your plan sounds like a good one! We could meet and have breakfast in Ventura at a place called "Pete's Breakfast House". The food and service is great! To get to it, if you were heading north on 101 from LA, get off at Seward in Ventura and head into town (go right from fwy), go past the stop light just after getting off the fwy, continue up Seward under the train overpass, past two more stop lights, and at the third light (Main St.) turn left. Pete's Breakfast House is on the right side of Main Street a couple of blocks down. It is just past Ventura High School and across the street from the high school is a vacant gas station right next to Pete's for parking. This is my favorite place for breakfast. Yah, the 33/166/101 would be a good run!!! Plenty of twisty stuff on 33, some high speed stuff on 166, and a nice cruise back on 101. Let's try and put this together. I'll e-mail you my phone number.

Thanks for the responce SoCalZ. I've had the pleasure of meeting Steve in Salvang a couple of months ago. I had a good time and everyone was super nice. I plan to attend the luncheon in Summerland this Sunday @ 11:00. It's likely to be WARM but, being next to the ocean it should be very comfortable. If I remember correctly, parking can be limited on the street but, there are a couple of parking lots. Thanks again for the info and maybe we'll cross paths some time in the future. P.S. My 1970 240Z is so much fun to drive, it should qualify as illegal.

Greetings to you! I believe you're on the right track to learning about the early Z cars.............you're at the correct site. Here is what I did, as I too was lacking in Z car knowledge when I jumped into reworking my Z. I went to a number of Z car shows to see what I could see and inquire about what was of interest to me. Boy, did I ever have a lot of questions too!!! Then I started surfing the internet for any and all the information I could find that I could use or thought I could use. After creating quite a large collection of info, I went through the whole pile of info and sorted the stuff into catagories as well as discard the info that wasn't too good. Basically, info that just didn't jive with the other info on the same subject, written by others. Not all posts can be taken as gospel. Once you've digested enough info on any one subject, you start to get a feel for what works and what doesn't. So, do alot of research, it's cheap, and then figure out what exactly you want to do to your Z. Figure out a budget for what you intend to spend on your new toy and then double it!!! For myself, I budgeted about $12,500.00 (US dollars) What I actually spent was closer to $18,000.00 OK, maybe 1 1/2 times, in my case. Anyway, there will always be those "gotta have" items that will bump up your limit. Please don't think that all Z car projects cost this much. Then again, depending on what you intend to do, I've heard expenditures as high as $50,000.00 When you go looking for your new toy, everyone here will tell you the same thing, find one with the least amount of rust!!!! OK now, go for it! P.S. I hope this helps you off the starting line. Good luck! Remember one thing.....focus on what you will have when you are done and not on the little problems you encounter along the way.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't your Z smog inspection exempt? If so, save yourself some $$$ and ditch the smog stuff!!! It will also improve your performance! That's just one mans opinion.

Gavin, I totally agree with your last paragraph. Like I've said before, the 350Z is one heck of a performer, but it still looks ugly to me!!! 240's will always be the best looking Z's, IMO. Let's face it, how many cars have the style and class of a 30+ years old 240Z. Everytime I take my 240 out for a drive, you see people turning heads. You gotta love them!!!

Ask the guy for the VIN. Good point about the rear vents....I think they went away sometime mid 71 !!? Good luck, if it's a buy.

Ian, This is just off the top of my head...........assuming it does bolt up to L24 motor, you may want to concider what modifications are necessary to hook up the throttle and choke linkages and what CFM the single carb is capable of flowing. I think the dual round tops flow a total of about 450 CFM. Come on, I need some help here Alfadog!!!

WannaZ, It's most likely the year he is specifying. Take a look at the picture of the engine bay. See the I.D. tag mounted to the right side strut tower....I believe only the 70's and early 71's had the I.D. tag in this location. Later models have the I.D. tag mounted up on the firewall, somewhere! Someone please correct me, if necessary, as I'm old and forgetful......but I can remember that we ALL do love are early Z's.

Thank you for correcting me Rick!!! I guess I was being a little self centered there! Sorry guys, I lost it for a moment.

Well, the only thing that will be new here is dealing with the cam chain. Don't let go slack and fall down into the housing. If you don't already have a repair manual, get one. It will show you what you need to retain the chain while the head is removed. If the chain does fall down inside the housing, you have two problems....#1 you have to fish it out....#2 (MOST IMPORTANTLY) you will loose the timing relationship between the chain and crank sproket and you will have to remove the front housing and reposition the chain. Definitely read the repair manual, as it will also show you the wedge you need to maintain the position of the chain during disassembly and re-assembly.

Doug, I checked out the pics in your gallery today. Nice clean looking 240Z. Very classy looking with the Panasports. Where you located?

Maybe I'm just getting old or something, but to me the new designs BMW are coming out with are pitiful!!! Have the new age of designers been spending too much time playing video games and such or have they a lack of talent and creativity. Come on, look at the funny style lines on the sides of the Z4! What inspired those? The M coupe, well it just look strange. It's really sad too, because BMW's are great performance cars with great reliability. So, what's happened with the looks department? Glad I own an early Z. Now they look great!!! But that's just one man's opinion!

Try calling Motorsport Auto for new stuff or go to a Pic-a-part and pull one out. If you go to a Pic-a-part and pull one out you'll gain the experience and won't dork up your Z if you f_ _k up something. It's not hard R & R, but requires patients.

I'm with Beandip. I don't want to be too critical here but, maybe a little schooling in basic auto mechanics would be appropriate here Keith. However, you obviously got the cam cover off, so you must have some skills. Any ridicule you may get here is just in fun. Remember, we all love the Z car. So, if your not sure of yourself, do as suggested and have an experienced mechanic do it for you and watch what he's doing so you can do it next time.

Good question, but no answer!!! Anyway, he's got one hell of a nice ride......and Oh what an engine bay! When I attended the Vegas show back in 2000 I got my first look at this Z. One of Tod's buddies mentioned something to the tune of 400+HP. If looks could kill....this Z would be lethal. I'm quessing that someone here will come up with some answers!?

It sounds as though you are sucking oil past your valve guide seals. At 91,000 miles the seals are likely a bit worn. Well, at least it keeps the top end lubed. Seriously, it won't hurt anything but the environment. So quit decelerating.....keep it WFO!!! Keep enjoying your toy......until you must overhaul.