240ZX

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Marty, Carl's explanation is very good. Maybe this info will help you out further. The purpose of the locking bolt is to correctly position the spindle in the assembly and to prevent it from rotating when you torque the spindle end nuts. As Carl said, the notch is not in the center of the spindle. Also, orient the flat, of the spidle notch, with the centerline of the locking bolt through hole before installing it. Rotating the spindle, when it's already installed is difficult if not impossible without dorking something up. The tapper on the locking bolt bears against the flat area of the spindle notch. Remember to use some type of anti-seize during assembly. hope this info helps you out.

After viewing your attachment I noticed that the locking bolt is still in place. This is a tappered bolt that secures the large through shaft from moving. It goes in place from the top. Put a nut back on the locking bolt, so you don't F up the threads, and hammer it until it breaks loose. Of course you will have to remove the nut before the locking bolt can be removed. As mentioned by one of the other guys, pre-soak the assembly with penitrating oil long before you start to hammer. Remember that these assemblies have been sitting for a long time and are tough to remove at best. I replaced the shafts and locking bolts with new ones just for peace of mind. I also used never-seize upon reassembly. Hope this info helps you out.

This sounds like a problem I once had with my 240. I was getting pretty frustrated with it, as you can imagine! It was eventually discovered that the distributor advance assembly was shot. The engine would run perfectly at and above full advance but would not idle properly. The thing that was so frustrating to me was that I had tried three different Nissan electronic distributors and they all worked the same.....like crap. (Note: these units were not purchased from Nissan, but were remanufactured units.) So, I finally broke down and installed a Mallory Uni-lite distributor. All is well now and my 240 purrrrs like a cat. This may not be your problem, but at least concider looking into the distributor advance assembly.

If you like sporty cars, and I think you do, you will enjoy the improved throttle response. My 240 employs a 13.5 lbs aluminum flywheel with a Centerforce II clutch and I love it. It drives better than it ever did with a heavy stock setup. Would I ever go back to a stock flywheel? I think not!!!

Your answer is yes, as long as the correct offset is used. I run 17x8 fr. & 17x9 rear, with 215-40 & 235-40 tires respectively. In addition I've shortened all four struts 1.5" and added coil-overs. Once you get into wider rims you will require coil-overs for clearance.

Marty is absolutely correct. Thanks you for giving more detail than I did.

FYI, I went through the exercise of looking into different classic car insurance companys and then called my insurance company (Farmers Ins.) to see what they offered. For about $50.00 more a year than the classic car insurance companys I got pretty much the same deal. Yes there is a mileage limit (5000 mi/yr) but my Z is not a daily driver. Basically, you decide what the value of your car is and they charge you accordingly. Example: Let's say you think your car is worth $25,000.....that's what they will charge you for! If the car is stolen, burns up, or is totalled you get $25,000. Pretty simple deal and I am insured with people I've been with for years and trust.

Maybe I'm not smart enough but, there seems to be no way to access the different Themes, to take a look at them and answer the considerations you posted! All I can access is voting on them, so I didn't vote. What's up?!!

If you choose the N42 head you will get bigger valves but you will loose compression on your L24. The N42 head, on a stock L28, only has about 8.3 to 1 compression. Of course the L28/N42 has dished pistons and your L24 has flat top pistons. Check out the numerous posts on heads for better details.

The electronic distributors will work however, you should aquire one from a manual trans car with a single pickup. If I remember correctly, the distributors from automatics have dual pickups and one of the two pickups is for retarding the timing.

Wanted: Electronic distributor for a 81 to 83 280ZX (single coil pickup) Distributor must be functional. Please help!!!

I've resently gone through the same issue. Here is what I did because I wanted a specific style wheel in 17". Understand that I had to installed Ground Control Coilover for additional tire/wheel clearance. Anyway, I have installed 17"x8" on the front and 17"x9" on the rear. The offset on these rims is 35mm. So, obviously wheel spacers were in order. The front spacers are 1" wide and the rear spacers are o.788" wide. Also, I forgot to mention that the rear drum setup has been replaces with ZX discs. I also used used 3" long ARP 1/2" wheel studs to hold it all together. By the way, if I remember correctly, the stock offset for early Z car wheels is somewhere between 0.125" to 0.0" !!? There are easy ways and expensive ways to get the tire/wheel combo you desire. Personally, my favorite easy way is to use the Panasport wheels (15s or 16s) as they look great when the car is set at a correct ride height. I did not choose this avenue because there are just too many Z cars with this setup. If you choose the method I used, with the GC coilovers, you will need to use 8" long springs in the rear and 10" in the front.

mmagnus, I had a similar problem with my 240Z (w/L28). I had converted the old points distributor to an electronic nissan unit, a single pick-up magnetic unit. Well, to make a long story short, the problem was the mechanical advance in the distributor. The engine was very difficult to start, if at all, and when I could get it to run and the rpm was above full advance it ran perfect. Anyway I'm going to a Mallory Unlite. The bummer is, it took a month to get the distributor from Mallory...Oh well!!!

Looking down from the top of the carbs, you turn the nut CCW to lean it and CW to richen it.

Hi, I'm pretty new to this forum, but I'm currently 95% done with completely going through my 1970 240Z....paint will come later after my bank account recovers a little. First you may want to ask yourself what you want out of it! A long time toy, daily driver, original restoration, fix-up to sell, or what? I my case I decided I wanted a very good handling, reliable weekend toy that I do not plan on selling. Before I actually started my project, I did months of research, went to Z car shows, and talked to ownwers about things they encountered during their restirations. I put together a rough estimate of what I planned to do and it was estimated at about $10K. After 15 months of working on my toy, I have now reached the $15K mark!!! There will always be things that come up you never planned for and a few items you will just have to have to make you Z what you hoped it would be. To give you an idea of what I've done to incure this cost; The car was stripped down to nothing but a bare chassis, with the exception of completely removing the interior (it is in pretty nice condition but I've put about $2K into the interior with new seats, harnesses, full dash cover, whiteface gauge overlay kit, and generally freshening up the inside). Everypart on the car has been stripped, prepped, painted, and has had the appropriate parts replaced. The suspension has urethane through out, coilover conversion with 1 1/2" shorter struts. I've upgraded the brakes (see Terry Oxindale's article on brake upgrades) to Terry's recommended street upgrade and have SS flex lines and metal master pads. I have an L28 N42 engine that's stock internally but has been upgraded with electronic ignition, IR alternator, electric fan and fuel pump to replace the mechanical units, and I had Rebello Racing breath on my original SU carbs.....headers and eye candy items as well. I installed a late model 5 speed and an R200 (3.90) differential and drive axles. Well, I could go on and on, but I don't want to bore you to death. Anyway, if you have good mechanical skills and do your homework, you will save a bundle. The biggest things to be aware of before starting are: Has the rust monster eaten too much of the car and is the chassis aligned. One last important point I want to mention. Without the internet, my project would have taken much longer and alot more $$$. Again do your homework before you get started. I hope this sheads a little light on the subject. 240ZX

Yes, a 5 speed (I'm using a 5 speed from a 82 ZX in my 1970 240Z) will bolt right into your early Z car. However, the shifter will be located 2.25" forward of the original 4 speed shifter. You can read articals on various ways to make this a functioning swap, but the bottom line is modifying the shifter to exit where the original one did! Now I'm no genious, but here is basically what I did. I purchased a length of 0.625 x 0.095 DOM steel tubing and used a tubing bender to put an almost 90 degree bend in it. Now knowing that the new lever must be back 2.25", I layed the original 5 speed lever on a flat surface so the main part of the shaft near the pivot was vertical. Now lay the 5/8 tube over the it so as to replicate the angle of the original lever, but positioned back 2.25". I drew this on paper, to scale, for a more precise calculation!!! Where the original lever and 5/8 tube intersect is where you will want to cut both pieces. The cut should run from one exstreme of the intersection to the other, providing maximum weld area. ( Roughly speaking, you will have an angled cut of about 45 degees on each piece). Before welding the two pieces together, double check it in the car for proper position. Note: Be sure to leave enough of the original shaft, above the pivot, to accomodate the boot on the transmission!!! Once you are satisfied with the location of the new lever, have it TIG welded together by an experienced welder. You might ask why I choose 5/8" tube for the lever!? Well, it just so happen that the shifter knob I purchased has a 5/8" lever hole. In the event you want to use an original shifter knob, weld a threaded peice to the end of the new lever. Of course you will still have to come up with a method to seal the trans tunnel opening. And yes you will have to open up the front side of the trans tunnel opening. I opened mine up approximately 2" and have plenty of clearance. With this lever modification, you have the luxury of making your shifter as long or short as you wish. I hope this information may help you out. One Man's Opinion, 240ZX