sccabrian

My 240z has had a problem starting after the installation of an MSD. The starter cranks very slowly. I went ahead and replaced the VR with a transistor type since it was the original and the problem is fixed. The problem now is that the ammeter jumps between half way and 45amps. It only does this when driving, not at idle. The lights and all are way brighter now, but I fear that maybe I'm killing my battery. The battery, however, doesn't even get hot. Does anyone have a clue what's going on here? Is the new VR bad? I'm thinking of putting it in my friend's 240 tonight to see if it does the same thing. thanks for any help, Brian s.

Hey guys. I have a '72 240Z and just put an msd 6al in it with a pertronix ignitor. It ran great, but the tach didn't work, so I got the 8910 tach adapter. After installing that exactly as described by msd, the tach works but the car now misses at idle and up to 2000 or 3000 rpm (maybe higher, don't know didn't rev it more than that). Any ideas???

I started his thread about a race with a 350z. I found out last night why we were able to keep up so well. At the track, the 240 ran a 14.66! Wow! It's running stock carbs, but has raised compression, exhaust, and K&N intakes. I didn't think that would propel the car from a mid 15 to a mid 14. I guess it's just a set of webbers from low 14's or even 13's. We're currently waiting on a set of Volk forged aluminum 9 lb wheels and SO3 tires. I'll post pics when they get here!

Last night, my friend and I were headed down the highway, and at a light pulled next to a silver 350z. We were in his 72 with a L28 with raised compression, headers, KN intake and filters, and exhaust. The 350 didn't look like it wanted to give us any beef, but as usual, we launched the 240 pretty quick. The 350 actually gave chase. At the next light, he rolled down his window and asked us if the 240 was a turbo. I guess he was surprised at how quick it was. He asked if we wanted to go again, and of course we did. Who could resist? The old and the new, it was such a classic pairing. I'm proud to say that he did not pull a hair on us until the top of our third gear (the beginning of his fourth I think). He was really sweating us, it was great. It was just a straight line and there were no cars, so it wasn't really all that wreckless. I'm hoping that my 240 L28eT is that quick when it's finished. It's in mid transformation at the moment.

Actually, I've done a few swaps before, but it's always been with carbs. This is my first attempt at fuel injection, and I think I have the concept of the way it works down pretty good. I did try searching, but I couldn't find much without knowing exactly what I was looking for. I just need a point in the right direction. Maybe there's a book on this sort of thing. Oh, and I forgot to mention, the 240 has an L28 in it already. haha, I'm sure that would have helped. Thanks for the reference to Hybridz, you can always use more references!

I have the same EXACT problem and haven't found any solution but to disconnect vaccum from Booster. I have been told my many people that it is the booster, and I actually will have an other booster to test real soon. It could also be that the MC wasn't bench bled before it was put on, but I made sure that mine was and I still wound up with issues.

I have a donor 280z that I recieved for free, and I would like to transfer the fuel inj. system to my L28 240. The thing is that it has sat for 8 years. I just need to know what all to pull from the 280 and what to clean it with. I'd assume carb cleaner in the AFM and fuel rails. Can you clean the injectors? Also, what exactly do I need to pull from the 280? What I hope to end up with in the near future is a 240z turbo. Thanks, Brian S.

I just recieved a 77 280z with a great interior, but it has no title. It sat for eight years, and has rusted through in many places. The thing is that I also have a 72 240 with a red interior, but it is very lacking. My question is, how much of the interior is transferrable? I would like to take teh seats, door panels, dash cap, and fuel injection off the 280 and put it in the 240. Also, since the 240 has a red interior and the 280 has black. Does anyone know a good paint / dye to get the headliner, rear interior panels, and vinyl black? Thanks a lot, Brian S.

Ok, it's the driveshaft. I was under it, and had my friend spin the tires. It clicks around the rear joint between the drive shaft and the diff. What to do?

Yes, actually, it changes a little with cornering, sometimes is sounds like a scrape. I'm going to check the U-Joints this weekend. I guess I couldn't have avoided that baseball card joke, haha. Maybe if I get the rear off the ground I can spik the tires and see if I can locate it.

I have had my 72 since October. It has never made any wierd noises, but now it clicks in the rear end area. It only clicks while driving and seems to be more speed dependant. Even when rolling to s stop, you can hear it click ever so slowly. I'm certain it is coming from the back end of the car, and pretty sure it's not the brakes. The ride hasn't changed either. Any ideas? I need to get the rear of the car in the air and try to spin the wheels and listen or something. It's driving me nuts! Thanks, Brian S.

Last night, my friend and I pressure tested our Z cars. Both are '72s and both have L28 engines. The only difference is that he has flat top pistons and an N42 head, and I have dished pistons with the N47. From front to back cyl, his pressures were all exactly 175psi (12:1 more or less) and mine were 130, 130, 135, 140, 125, 130. The problem is that when we put the flat tops into his car, it would ping no matter what octane gas was used. The timing was backed down to 7 deg (stock?) and now he must use 93 octane, or it still pings. Before the pistons, my 240 was actually faster, but with the pistons, we both run a low 15 second quarter. So my questions are, shouldn't there have been more of a performance gain with the flat tops? Why would it ping when flat tops came stock in some L28? (I've heard it's the shape of the combustion chamber in the head?) And what can we do to compensate so that he gets added performance, but no pinging? It is already running incredibly rich. So far, we have considered an MSD to get a better burn, maybe different carbs (more air?), or backing the timing down even more. I don't think the timing is a good idea. Also, is the 125-140psi range on my cyl normal? Thanks for any help, Brian S

It has rained in the past few days, and I haven't driven my '72 because of a wiper motor issue. Today, I started it up and switched the blower fan on to get some air moving in the cabin, and it was spewing out water. I then noticed a huge puddle on my passenger side floor board. I was wondering where the intake is for that fan, because I think I finally figured out how water was getting in the cabin! Thanks, Brian

I have access to a 2.3 litre turbo from a 1995 Saab 9000. Supposedly they make somewhere near 230 horse and around the same ammount of torque, but from like 2000 - 5500 rpm it remains constant. It is a really smooth pull. I was wondering if anyone had tried to put anything that bizzare into their early z-car. Mine is a 72 with an L28 in it. Its a lot of fun, but I also own a 2000 9-3 and when you drive it, you can't help but to wonder what it would feel like in the Z. The 185 horse motof pulls it through the 1/4 in 15.7 sec. So the Z would be pretty quick. Thanks, Brian

Thanks 240zx, I actually took it apart and saw the switches inside, all rusted. The motor is almost all rust inside too, save for the shaft. I guess it's time for a "new" motor. Does anyone know where to find one? I don't think I saw one in motorsport for the 240.

I have a 72 with the original wiper motor in there. When it is switched on, the little box that is clamped to the side of the motor clicks, but nothing happens. So, I bought a used motor and it does the exact same thing. Does anyone know where to begin troubleshooting? What exactly is that little box?

I have a 72 with an 83 ( I think ) carburated motor in it. I have it running great considering it didn't run when I got it and I'd never tuned carbs before. The problem is that when I stop at a light for more than a minute or two, the car starts sputtering and bucking when I start to go. It usually clears up by the time I switch to third. This is particularly annoying at the track where I can consistantly run 18 - 21 second quarter miles. haha. Also, the front bank of spark plugs look to be a little gunky as if they were running rich, and the backs look a little white ( lean? ) even though the carbs are in sync and I tuned them together. I'm a little lost here, and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hey, my booster is bad too, and a new one from VB is like 300$, so I'e been driving around with a bullet casing plugging up my vaccum line. It works just fine, and after a while, your leg totally gets used to jamming the pedal down to stop. I try to use my heel, and it's easier.

The problem is only when the vaccum is hooked up to the booster. At that point there is no pedal feel at all. When off, the brakes function as one should expect with no booster.

When hooked up, my booster lets me brake pedal travel to the floor with no effect. Once the pedal hits the floor though, the car screeches to a halt. I read a little bit about it being a rubber disc in the booster on the engine compartment side, but mine is intact and looks fine. Does anyone have any ideas? It is a pain driving this car with no power assist. Thanks, Brian S.

I'm down in Orlando. If you could send those, that would be "awesome." Email me at sccabrian@aol.com Thanks a bunch, Brian

Unfortunately, there aren't any early z cars in the yards around here and the seat coverings are way expensive for my budget.

Does anyone know of a pattern I could use to cut material to make 240z seats? I have the red interior and it is impossible to find the seat covers, but my friend just got rid of a red leather sofa that matches perfectly. any info would be great! Thanks, Brian S