senkyoshi

It is "B&L" for "Buy and Large". This is the brand on everything else in the movie

I started a new blog that has Japanese lessons. Right now I only have speaking Japanese but will have lessons about reading and writing characters soon. I will also talk about Japanese Cars, News, Manga, Anime, Recipes, Movies, Current events, and other things I think of. I hope though my posts others can learn the Japanese language and culture which will help them appreciate their Zs a little more. It is also fun. I also will document the "refreshing" of my 1973 240z as well. So enjoy and feel free to comment on the posts. http://japanscape.blogspot.com/

7277, Your interior looks great. I am thinking that the shock towers would be the hardest part because of the odd shape. Do they need to be cut in a special way?

I like the interior. Where can you get carpet kits that cover everything? I know of Too Intense. Anywhere else?

I posted this question on Zcar.com but I also wanted some input from another source. Although, some of you will also read tid there too. I am planning on putting down some peel and seal for vibration/sound control in my 240z. I know I could go with the more expensive name brand stuff but my dad just put some Peel and Seal on his roof and he has a lot left that he will give me for my car (key words "Save money!"). Besides, i have heard that Peel and Seal can be just as effective as the big name stuff. After some research through using the "search" feature and looking through other sites I learned that there are two kinds of Peel and Seal. With and without a shiny foil layer. My Dad has the kind without the foil layer. Do I have to use the kind with the foil layer for my application in my car or would the one without the foil work just as well? I know that many of the sound deadener products like dynomat and fatmat have the foil layer. What is the purpose of the foil layer? What would happen if I used the kind without it? Thanks for your help!

Thanks TomoHawk, I am looking into getting the book you mentioned. Any help anybody can give me right now while I am waiting for the book to get here? I want to get this done this weekend while I have some time off from work. Thanks for your help.

I bought the hatch WeatherStripping from MSA (Precision) a while back and finally have some time this weekend to put it on. I just finished stripping off the old stripping (that was a pain!) and am ready to put the new stuff on. I can easily see how the outer stripping goes on but the inner stripping is confusing. One side of the stripping opens like a flap and the other side is closed. Can someone please describe to me how this goes on? Pictures or drawings would help because I am a visual learner. Also, how much weatherstripping glue-stuff should I put on? A dab once in a while or a continuous thin line? Thanks for your help!

Right now I am getting around 21-22 MPG. The way I got to where my jetting is at is going down increments of 5 to 10. For example, I started with 140 main and went down to 130 and then went down by 5 until I got to where I am at. Same thing with the Idle jets. Also, my timing was around 5 BTDC and I took it to about 16-17 BTDC. It is running alot better now. If anyone else sees anything that I am doing wrong let me know. I am still learning too.

I tried to post last night when I was home but I couldn't get on the site. I could get everywhere else on the net but not here. Was this site having problems last night? Now I am at work again. Here is what I remember about my jetting. Main:115,120 Idle:45,50 Air:170,175 I think those are whats on mine. I also think I am running a little lean. I am still working on them. Remember that you need to synch the carbs as well. All the jets in the world will do you no good if the carbs are not synched. Do you have a synchrometer and DGV adapter? Do you have instruction on how to synch them? VERY VERY helpful. These are good carbs they just take some time getting right. There have been a few times that I have almost given up and gone to SUs but I am glad I stuck with it. I have learned a lot in the process and I have a feeling of accomplishment instead of giving up.

I will be able to help you some more when I get home from work tonight. Have you synched the carbs? If the carbs are not synched then changing the jets will have little effect. I will try to post some more help tonight.

It would be great if you could tell us what jets are curently being used in the carbs. Also check timing and ignition. When you say "the car does not run particulary well" what do you mean? Check your spark plugs. Are they black? white? brown? What kind of gas mileage are you getting. I also have Webers (DGV) and have been working on getting mine running well and am almost there. Good luck!

Overall review of the book anyone please.

Arne, Thanks for the help. I was looking at my haynes manual wiring diagram and it was hard to read so I couldn't follow the wires. I looked at it again and noticed that around the green blue striped wire there is some burnt marks. Could this be a problem now or in the future? thanks again!

This is on my 1973 240z. About 2 months ago my dash and tail-lights went out on me and I replaced the fuse (which was fried) and it worked again. Well, I have been running fine with all lights working and then when I got into my Z to go home from work and turned on my lights my dash and tail lights were out again. I replaced the fuse and the lights still didnt work. Tonight when I got home I took off the cover of the steering column and looked at the switch. On top of the switch one of the wires is green and blue striped. I notices that the solder was almost completely gone and the wire was almost hanging by a thread (of solder). Could this be my problem? Is this the ground wire? Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

So how is the rest of the book? good? I have been thinking about getting it. any reviews out there from those who have it?