First Gen Z

Moving company blanket. Thick padding. Soft on the old bod. Easy on the paint. Free.

Stock turbo oil pans have the probe in the rear.

One hose on the vacuum tank goes to the vacuum source. A fitting on the intake manifold toward the rear. The other hose goes to through the firewall to the AC unit.

Could also be slightly restricted radiator. You didn't say how old the three core was.

The vacuum tank actually stores vacuum for the operation of the mode door actuator. It is part of the AC system. It opens and closes the doors in the air distribution box.

So far it seems that you are concentrating on the fuel system. Do you know if you are getting spark?

The heat shield that goes between the intake and the exhaust needs to be there to keep exhaust heat from the intake. High under hood heat can be a problem. It may be the cause of your engine problems. Make the shield fit. On your suspected water in the gas problem pull the plug in the gas tank and drain some gas into a container. Water is heavier than gas so if there is water in the tank it will drain first. You can also check for water in the filter. Hope this helps.

The 75 is EFI. It has an electronic control unit, an air flow meter, a throttle position switch and a few other electronic gizmos. Pretty simple system but very good for it's time.

The're not rare. I have a 260 w/ auto and have had other Z's with the auto. Both Z's and ZX's have them. They don't add any value but they don't decrease value either. It's simply a matter of preference.

Custom auto upholstery shops use a very heavy cardboard type material. I've used it with success. Quite inexpensive, too.

Alright all you tough guys!!! Over building won't cost near as much as rehab. Even at a mere 450# it will do major damage if it catches you off guard. I used nothing less than 1/4 wall thickness when I built mine. You could hang a bus on it and it wouldn't budge. I've grown real fond of all my parts and pieces being where the belong.

When I built mine I used nothing less than 1/4 wall tubing. This piece should be over built. After all you are hanging a "CAR" on it. Safety is the issue here. You don't want the car to fall. You especially don't want the car to fall on you!!!! The few extra bucks it will cost is well worth it.

Spindle pin puller is the trick. No Z DIY'r should be without one. Pays for itself the first time you use it. Once you try it you'll like it. Especially the savings on the replacement pins.

Been using it for years. Great product for weatherproofing connections. And lots of other things. Just use your imagination.

centralfloridazclub.com. It's a new site so there isn't much going on yet.

Hi Matt, Welcome to sunny central Florida. Come join us (Central Florida Z Car Club) we meet at the Tony Romas Place for Ribs at the corner of 434 and 436. The restaurant isn't right on the corner but more like a block west of 436. Meeting this Thursday at 6:30 pm. We're not a real big club but we do have a good time. And we host one of the biggest Z car meets on the East coast. Hope to see you Thursday.

You might try your local Home Depot. They carry piano hinges.

If all else fails you could take it to a shop that has a press and have it pressed in. If your hub is out of round you may not get the bearing in by any other means.

I have several. What year car? You can email me direct at Skipzcar@aol.com

I've parted several 280's and have got gobs of parts. Email me direct at Skipzcar@aol.com. I may be able to help.

The folks in New Hampshire lost their "OLD MAN IN THE MOUNTAIN" much the same way. Mother nature wiped his face right off of that hill.

The stub axles should slide out easily since they were removed only a few months ago. The 280ZX calipers will work in the parking brake mode with only the cable attached. The parking brake is a mechanical devise not needing a hydraulic assist.

The small colored line is always the second color in the description.

Rocker arm noise is relative to valve clearance. Check the clearance to see if it corresponds with the cam grinders specs. The cam could be the cause of your low vacuum at idle.

If the car is an automatic the problem may in the inhibitor switch. If this switch is malfunctioning or out of adjustment you wont get power to the solenoid. It's what we Americans refer to as a neutral safety switch.