First Gen Z

Link covers are available from Courtesy, also. Nice upgrade!

Check the flap in the airflow meter. If it sticks it could cause your problem. A little WD40 will correct the sticking flap.

Do you want to road race? Do you want to drag race? Do you want a nice street machine? Choices, Choices. Most important, do you like the car? Determining what purpose the car will serve is the first decision. Two seaters will be faster if all other factors are equal. But, is speed all that you are looking for? Bottom line; it's your car. Build it to suit your own tastes. After all, it's a Z car and will be a lot of fun.

I agree, Alan. If the harness gets hot enough to melt solder you better start RUNNING because your car is on fire. I'm curious as to the advantage of the change over.

White face gauges have been around a loooooooong time. I've always thought they looked great. Besides, it's your car. Do whatever suites you.

Definitly horns. My first Z had the same set.

Check your cold start valve. Could also be leaking injectors.

I've seen aluminum heads repaired many, many times with 100% success. They are easier to repair than iron heads by far.

You may want to skip the oil and filter change altogether. Just keep oil in the ole gal. I wouldn't put high detergent oil in an old sludged up motor. Try to find some non detergent. It'll keep everything slippery and that's all you want until you build a new engine.

Shooting thieves is way to kind. Chop their hands off.

Dans240z is correct about the battery. Don't be too hard on yourself, many of us have done the same thing with varying end results. It was my experience many years ago that nothing got destroyed but the battery. I guess you could say I was lucky because I've heard of batteries exploding. Good luck.

All Nissan cars that have "Z" attached to their name plate are real Z cars, period. The one or many that an individual has a passion for is irrelevent. Most importantly we must never forget that we ALL are Z people.

It may be just an age thing but I would leave the automatic in the car. The 3n71b three speed can handle anything the 280 can dish out. Typically, automatic transmission cars turn better times at the drags because they can shift faster than us mere mortals. Anyway you look at it, with the 4:11 it will make a huge difference.

I concur! The sludge won't hurt a thing if you leave it alone. If you disturb it the sludge will plug up every oil passage in the engine. Carbon is no problem either. Every engine with high mileage has some.

In my 4n71b swap I specifically used the early version of that overdrive trans just for the reason of trying to eliminate the electronics. If you swap from a standard to an automatic you have to make wiring harnesses for the overdrive solenoid, the downshift solenoid and the inhibitor switch. The car in question was a 78 280 five speed. Bought from the original owner. It's a very nice unrestored original car. We (my Sweetie and I) have entered it in the last three years Central Florida Z Fests and won first place in our class. I wasn't real thrilled about changing from a five speed to an automatic but it wasn't a good road car. Sixty MPH=3000 RPM. Now it's sixty MPH=1200RPM. And Sweetie really didn't want to shift gears. So, she gets her car the way she wants it and when I get ready to build mine she can't say too much. I didn't use a lockup converter as overdrive does what I need. I did wire the overdrive solenoid to a rocker switch so I can shut down overdrive when I'm doing intown driving.

chickenwafer- I've been rebuilding auto trans for 30 years. All of the early non electronic trans are remarkably the same when you get them apart and compare the pieces. The 3n71b is not an exact clone but it is very much like a THM350. TomoHawk- You are right about the 4n71b being a difficult swap. I've done it with great success, however. It's VERY labor intensive. Also requiring a knowledge of how transmissions work and how to wire the electric components. Fabrication skills are also required. The 3n71b and the 4n71b are built by JATCO. Japan Transmission Company. You may want to check for power at the kickdown switch. It's located on the accelerater pedal linkage inside the car. Also check the kickdown solenoid. You can apply 12v directly to it and listen for a click. No click- no good.

I've used both the 3n71b and the 4n71b and never had a problem with either. They are almost a clone of the Chevy THM350. The 4n71b is no more than a 3n71b with an overdrive added to it. I've added a larger boost valve to the 4n71b and it seems to shift a little better.

I use WIX filters exclusively. And Discount Auto house brand 40wt oil. I take care of a fleet of vehicles and equipment for a landscape company. I've never had a filter or oil related problem. And this equipment gets used REALLY HARD. I belive the Discount house brand oil is Havoline. This place is a great test bed for everything.

If the clorox and brake fluid deal is for real, thank God four olds can't read! I raised three kids. There're all grown and have families of their own. At the time of the raising it wasn't funny, but now that it is get even time do I dare tell the grand kids about clorox and brake fluid?

The red stuff you see around the axle nut may be Locktite. If it's the really good stuff you may have to use some heat to break the nut loose. My impact wrench is a CP 734 and it has no problem with the axle nuts. Be ready to use a tap and die on the threads because more than likely they will get messed up. The original nuts can be reused. Just use Locktite on them upon reassembly. Good Luck.

Hey Mr. Camo, How many strikes does one get and what happens when the allotted number is reached?

Having spare keys and keeping them anywhere is a good idea.

Plug it into your other car that you know has working flashers.

Ken Jones, of the Space Coast Z Club, has done the supercharger L28Z. I think you can get in touch with him through the Z Fest web site. I've seen the car. It's done very nice. And runs great.

Cold chisel and 2 lb hammer. Not the easiest way but if all else fails it works. Just be careful not to beat up the crank bore.