First Gen Z

You are right about voltage drop with a dead cell. However, the battery should read 13.6 - 14.2 when the engine is running. I think your alternator has just commited suicide.

Sometimes it's necessary to heat the nut until it gets red. Propane and butane torches just won't get it. You need an oxy-acetylene torch. Heat the offender evenly all around and be sure to soak the threads with your choice of penetrating oil. Again, patience is your friend.

After applying heat to break the bond with the rust, WD-40, PB Blaster, CRC and some other penetrating oils that I don't know about will do basically the same thing. They will wick into all of the rusted areas and aid in the removing of the rusted and broken fastener. Though they are different formulas they are all very light weight petroleum products. I've been in this trade for 40 + years and have used them all. Trust me, use whatever brand you have on hand. They all will work. The real trick is to work carefully and patiently. This is an area that can turn into a real nightmare if you try to get in a big hurry.

That bolt was locked in place by rust. It may take a little more than a simple EZ Out to remove it. I've broken the same bolts. An EZ Out is a tool that you drive into what's left of the broken bolt after you have drilled an appropriate size hole in it. It's a very simple tool to use altho it doesn't always work by itself. When the broken bolt is locked in place by rust the addition of heat will make the bolt and surrounding metal move slightly and that will break the rust bond. After the applied heat a liberal soaking with WD-40 or any of the other lubes will make the job a bit easier. Be sure to center punch the bolt so as to drill the hole in the center. Insert the EZ Out and twist it counter clockwise. If it refuses to come out then you may have to drill it out completely and retap the hole.

There's no such thing as an "ECONOMICAL" engine swap. They always cost more and they always take longer. Even if you are an old motor head like me who's been doing this for a long time. If MPG is what you're looking for buy a car. The upside of this is that when you get done with the econo car you might be able to sell it and recoupe most of your investment. Putting a four cylinder in an old beat up Z car is money down the drain.

I installed a full cap on my 78. I removed the dash to install it because when I trial fit it in the car I could tell that it would not fit perfectly. After removing the dash and fitting the cap ( trimming in several places ) I glued it to the dash with contact cement. I have no intention of ever removing it. It fits perfect and you can't tell it's a cap when you sit in the car. $89.95 vs $700.00. That's a no brainer for me. My car is a daily driver that has won first place three years in a row in the stock class at Z Fest.

I think that all of the items you list are dealer installed. I'm not sure if that is considered factory but they are considered stock.

For me and I'll bet most other Z folks economics play a hugh roll in the decision on whether to buy OEM or aftermarket. For instance. I was rebuilding rear calipers on a 1983 ZX. I went to the local Nissan dealer to purchase new pistons. They priced them at $108.00 each. Now, who in their right mind would pay that when you can buy a complete caliper already rebuilt for around $60.00. And that was with our club discount. Having said that I also believe that we build and maintain our cars to suit us. Not other people. Any job that is done correctly is a job well done whether done with OEM or after market.

A little anti-sieze is a good idea on any threaded device going into aluminum.

Just to add to Datto-Zed's post the normal voltage spread on a properly working alternator is 13.6 - 14.2. Not to worry about .6 volts. Altho it would be interesting to know what your battery manufacturer had to say.

Datsun oil pressure sending units are notorious for working erratic. My daily driver (81 ZX) sometimes reads 30 psi and other times reads 70psi. And like you I've checked the oil several times to find out that it is just fine. I no longer pay any attention to the guage as long as it reads some pressure.

You could also use a cast iron manifold for a pattern.

If you get this done keep us posted as I'll bet many more first gen Z owners have wanted to do it.

Racing Capitol of the World? I DON"T THINK SO! Must I remind you of Daytona Int'l Speedway? Several racing events every year. Two that draw over 200,000 spectators. And I can't believe that you would pay any attention to the media. They make a circus out of everything. Now, give credit where credit is due. That young lady did a great job, period!

The turbo driveshaft is NOT interchandeable with the NA driveshaft. If you are using the Nissan transmission then you must use the NA driveshaft. If you are using the B/W trans then you must use the turbo driveshaft. You can swap the differential flange for the flange that was in the turbo car.

Could be any number of things. I'd try a different ECU.

The hole in the manifold could be for the EGR tube.

Those numbers aren't that bad. Really bad rings or a stuck valve will net you much less pressure. I'd use the motor as is.

I have a 77 and 78 and both have the pad on the left.

All appliance wheels have the letter A cast in the back side. I just sold a set.

The best thing that could happen to a Ford C4 is mating it with a pound of the other C4.

Hi Evan, Welcome to the site. This is a great site to monitor. Lots of info. Lots of help from very knowledgeable people. Most of us are very tolerant of others ideas. The rotary project sounds interesting. Keep us posted when you start.

Borrow a transmission jack. It's a lot safer and a lot easier.

It's my guess that the man was telling you to slow down and you were having too much fun running out of control to listen.

Stress fractures. I've seen them in other makes and at the same location. Weld them closed and hope for the best.