JohnB

Remember that the doors are different between years. The late 260z and the early 280Z (1975 to 7/96) Z car door panels/ door cards will not interchange with the 8/76 to 1978 cars. The door lock knob and rod and corresponding hole is moved toward the front of the door on the 8/76 to 1978 Z cars. The Windows and regulators are different. Not sure of the date but they are not interchangeable. Most likely 8/76 to 1978. It most likely was done when the government mandated safety reinforcement bar be added to the doors of the 280z. This is also the reason the armrest mounting holes are relocated on the later cars. The 1970 to 73 Z cars use a flat panel while the 260 to 280Z use a pleated style door card. There are also differences in the seats, their sliders and the seat mounting points. There are differences in the colors offered and textures. For example the tan is different between years. Carpets are different between models and years. For example the rear deck carpets are cut different. Footwell side panels are different between years. I hope this helps as a starting point. I am sure there are more. Good luck, JB

Have you checked for a blown fuse or if the connections are clean? Check the connectivity of the connection to the computer?

Blast from the past. I have the same issue and appreciate the input you all had in 2007. Did you ever get rid of the surging? Sounds like the 20 wt. oil was a big first step and I will do that as soon as I find 20 wt. I have been using 30 wt. oil in my 240z and 260z for years. The surging has only showed its ugly head in the 260z recently. Any update would be great. Thanks, JohnB

My cable seems to be slipping. I will try to replicate your tool. Thanks for the update and tool pictures. John

Thanks. I guess I can't see how they advertise a vented rotor to use with the stock caliper? Unless the stock caliper is wider than the S12. Johnb

Can you use an aftermarket rotor such as the vented, slotted and cross drilled rotors of r1 concepts that are made for the stock 240-280z calipers with the S12, S12W or later 86-88 S12+8 Toyota calipers without using the rotor spacer? I am trying to save the $100-150 cost of the spacer. Thanks, John

I would be interested in a set. I have an early 260z I would like to upgrade. I have a set of 72 240z hubs I can switch to if needed. Let me know. Thanks, John

Wheels America. $129/ wheel to mak like new. I have tried it yet but was referred to it by the local tire chain. They are a national chain: http://www.wheelsamerica.com/ JohnB

I own and have owned multiple 240Z's and two 280Z's. I have only had one fusible link go bad. This is my first 260Z. Since it is an early one and is so close to the old '73 240Z I thought the fusible links in the small white topped boxes where a 280Z FI related upgrade. Since none where on the inner fender I ASSuMEd it was like the 240Z near the alternater and starter. I brought two of my links from my 280Z and swapped in the one that was blown. It was mostly gone, blown to bits plus a whole burned through the cover against the fire wall. So I am guessing the starter went bad and the link blew or the link blew from the jump start arc because the starter was bad. I found the starter had a brittle cap on the solenoid that came apart when I removed the starter. The starter looked trashed. Now the car starts quicker with the new high torque starter (Bosch $70 from Pep Boys) and IT RUNS! I plan on replacing the fusible links with new ones for the 260Z. Last question: What is the difference between the fusible links from a 260Z and the 280Z? Are they the same rating or are they specific to the model? I see on ebay they are listed differently. Of course the 280Z's are cheaper and you get four vs two for about the same amount. Are they interchangable? Thanks to Manny1973, SteveJ, Idahokidd, dimitri zee and FastWoman. Your ideas where a big help! As always this forum keeps my Z's on the road. Thanks again, JohnB

I am going to check out the fusible links.

Ok, so I replaced the starter with a new bosch high torq unit. No go. Nothing, notta. No lights, no start, no anything, just like a disconnected or dead battery. I am stumped. Any ideas would be great. Thanks, JohnB

I will start with the starter as it has been acting like it is on it's last legs, slow to engage and turn over. Are the standard starters for the 280ZX Tubo the gear reduction type? Thanks, JohnB

I have had the car for two years and the battery was supposed to be new from PO. No idea if true. The swopped in battery is a 3-4 year old Optima Red Top. It showed a 80-90% charge on the battery charger after being charging for two days on a trickle charge. Most (all) batteries show this reading on my charger. No lights or anything with the old battery. Everything worked this morning and last night. I went from having a car that worked to a car that acts like it has no battery. I will test the old battery Monday AM. The cables were not crosssed. I checked. It sparked when I hooked up the battery to the Z first and connected the jumpers to the positive on my Jeep and touched the ground of my Jeep body. It sparked/arched when I hooked it to the Jeep and then touched the Z battery positive terminal after connecting the ground jumper to the Z battery. I drive the Z almost every day from April to November. Run it a few times in winter to keep the battery alive. Where is the fusible link out side of the fuse box? Thanks for the help, JohnB

Help! I need the lists collective wisdom. I drove my 260Z this morning to my kids hockey game. When I went to leave I turned the key and nothing. Dead silence. No hums, no fuel pump, no lights no radio... I cleaned the poitive terminal which looked clean except for a little corrosion on the outside of the clamp bolt. the ground looked fine and tight. Nothing chaned when I tried to start it. I tried to jump it and I had a hugh arc that melted a spot on the terminal. I came home and searched the treads and the closest I found was a "Dead Short" in a battery. So I pulled a battery from my 240z that was on a charger and installed it. Still nothing. Then the ran came and I am home again with out the Z. The Z was having a hard time with the starter each morning as it seemed to draw a lot of power to get it to start spinning. Once it spun the starter acted normally. My Z is an early 260Z with a 2.8 short block and an E31 head and MSD electronic ignition. Electric fan conversion is about the extent of electric modifications. Any ideas whoul;d be great, Thanks, JohnB Chicago

Car ran for a few months after putting on the new rotor cap. Now the cap feels loose so I am assuming it is now the problem...I will check the rotor next and then the carb floats and then the timing. Thanks, JohnB

I am having a similar problem. I replaced the cap and rotor (Beck Arnley brand) this past fall along with a new coil after some surging issues. The car sat for a few weeks and it stopped starting. The Cap is loose. I can move it a few degrees each way. It seems as if the cap is not seating or the clips are loose. The contacts on the inside of the cap look a little chewed for a few months old (I plan on replacing it). The car will crank and fire a little or not at all. Starting fluid does almost nothing. If I leave the starter on, the car will fire and back fire but die as soon as I turn the key to on from start. Plugs are wet with fuel and black in color. Any ideas? Thanks, JohnB Chicago