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AxtellZ

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Everything posted by AxtellZ

  1. I received fiberglass fenders via GH years back. they were boxed pretty well, but still got hammered on the trip. I refuse to use that for shipping anymore.
  2. bleed the master for the rears first, then rebleed at the back.
  3. AxtellZ replied to pbarcher's post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Mine behaved similarly, bleeding the master cylinder fixed it. hth, Jeremiah
  4. Been a long time since i was here.. My 260 has been sitting in my garage since 2007, only moved a few times as life got busy (and i now drive a Lexus IS-F, which put the Z on the back burner). Decided to bring her back and get some cruises in- of course the passenger wheel cylinder leaked and drained the MC, the driver side was a rusted hulk, etc. Long story short, she is running well, and has all new brake hardware- ready for NY inspection Monday. Can't wait to take a nice ride through wine country again! Jeremiah
  5. AxtellZ replied to raltz's post in a topic in Help Me !!
    i had a loose connection at the coil, or bad ballast resistor that would do that long ago.
  6. AxtellZ replied to samzhot240's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    how far are you willing to go? Kurt Thiel has a shop in Canadaigua, NY. You can email some of the board at zccr.net for suggestions too. Good luck!
  7. AxtellZ replied to Arne's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    My garage: 73 240 (silver) 74 260 (yellow) 06 Mustang GT Convertible (black) 08 Lexus IS-F (black) Outside: 06 GMC Envoy xl, 00 F150 4x4
  8. AxtellZ replied to Rebl4ce's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    www.datsunzparts.com www.zcarparts.com
  9. in the garage/driveway today: 74 260z 73 240z 01 F150 4wd 06 GMC Envoy xl 06 Mustang GT Convertible
  10. Don't wizz on a flat rock.. -dear old Dad, as i was tattling on my elder brotherss as a yout.
  11. Try Bruce Palmer.. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10207&highlight=bruce+palmer He is the Ztherapy answer man. My Z's are out in 14F cold, waiting another 2 months, and my mind is going blank... Try a private message to him if he doesn't see this thread.
  12. i'd say $25. Do you take Paypal, i'll give you 75 'cause i like you....
  13. Hmmm So, if you pull the covers from the float bowls, there is plenty of fuel in both? Fuel is getting through the filter at the banjo fitting, and through the needle/seat assembly? It sounds like it could be way too lean? When you try to apply any throttle, the added air coming in leans it out so much it stalls? Will it rev with the choke applied? How many turns out do you have the mixture screws at the bottom of the nozzles? This is one i wish i could go "hands on"! Do you own the Ztherapy carb tape? Just reread what you wrote- as far as "default Jet Height"- whaddya mean? You mean adjusting mixture, or how you set the needles? Keep plugging, we're gonna fix this!
  14. Huh. Sounds like you've addressed all you can think of. Has the carb adjustment been toyed with? Does the choke on/off change anything? Have you checked the floats in the carb bowls (not bowels, eww...)? Seems unlikely both floats would crap out at the same time.. How lean/rich are/were they set? Keep us informed, Jeremiah
  15. AxtellZ replied to Bill.Oakes's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    It's back........
  16. www.autobarn.net had rotors pretty cheap- Brembo for my 260 were $17 each! They also carry slotted & drilled. I think for the Toyota calipers, www.carparts.com was cheapest, around $67 each/no core.
  17. Basically, any L-series will do. L26 may be hard to find, as they were only in the 260 for one year here in the US. L28 from a 280, or a 280 turbo from a parts/junkyard car seem to be your best bet, based on cost & availability. Of course, maybe you come across a running L24 from a 240 cheap- that would also work just fine. Just depends on how much you can afford, and how hard you have to look. To go cheap, and not have to search that hard, i'd go with a 280 block. Just drop it in & go. If you want more power, consider a 280 turbo... Good luck!
  18. I believe John Coffey sells them through his shop.. http://betamotorsports.com/products/index.html COMPOSITE DATSUN 240/260/280Z REAR HATCH GODSPEED Racing designed and Benchmark Composites manufactured racing hatches for the Datsun 240/260/280Z. They won't warp, they fit, and they can take hits from rocks and other track debris without cracking or delaminating. An early 1970 240Z OEM rear hatch weighs 47 lbs including the glass, latching mechanism, hinges, and one support strut. A similarly equipped late 1972 240Z OEM rear hatch weighs 49 lbs. The carbon fiber rear hatch, by itself primed and ready for paint, weighs 5 lbs. The hatch is two parts for strength and primed for paint or can be ordered with an optional clear Gelcoat finish. Pin mounting points are reinforced with Jabroc. The hatch can also be ordered in fiberglass and is made from the same molds as the carbon fiber hood. The fiberglass hatch weighs 15 lbs without the stock mounting hardware. The fiberglass hatch is shipped primed for paint. The price of either hatch does not include a window or window mounting components. The rear hatch does have a stock sized lip so you can use the factory rubber window moldings to mount a stock glass rear window. betaMotorsports, LLC can also make and install a acrylic rear window for an additional charge. Hatch Pricing Datsun 240/260/280Z carbon fiber race rear hatch - $742.00 Datsun 240Z/260/280Z polyester fiberglass race rear hatch - inquire Clear Gelcoat finish for the carbon fiber race rear hatch - $108.00 Acrylic racing rear window installed - $195.00
  19. Well, to be honest- it was midnight, i was cold & tired & not at home, so i pulled it all out & switched it back- i needed to drive it home! But i *assume* it was the auto tranny safety that killed power. Yes, it would start right up in P or N, but the moment it was shifted, shut right off. Since it was late, and i didn't have a lift available, i put the points dizzy back. Then picked up another car, so the 73 is still "waiting". Not sure if its mandatory or not, since many "modifications" were made by previous owners!
  20. I did my 73 auto waaaay back, i do remember it worked just fine, except: the ignition cut out when the car wasn't in "park" or "neutral". So, you may have to wire around the safety switch on the tranny...
  21. Wow. What a couple of Zfans!! Anyone got some "Z" inlays in their front teeth?
  22. Let us know when you have a 260/280 version ready- i'm in in a heartbeat! Thanks.
  23. AxtellZ replied to vega's post in a topic in Aftermarket
    Well, basically try searching here and at hybridz first, as this has been covered many times. But all in all, between Motorsport Auto, and Victoria British, you should find most of what you seek. Plus arizonaz, www.zbarn.com www.zparts.com www.zcarparts.com www.datsunzparts.com You'll need a new differential (r200 lsd most likely) at least..
  24. AxtellZ replied to vega's post in a topic in Aftermarket
    http://www.arizonazcar.com/ for body panels ('glass) etc. And, as Ed said- hybridZ will be more "modification friendly". Thought i'd get kicked out for talking about putting a 318/340 in my "spare" Z!
  25. Thanks. After much input from the email list, i decided to go with solid rotors, good pads & new fluid before i do a brake swap. I am keeping the 14" rims, otherwise i might have done otherwise. Oh, while i'm here- i found another cheap source: www.autobarn.com They have Brembo solid rotors for my 260 for $16.70US each!

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