AxtellZ

Depends what you're after: street driving, racing, autocrossing?? My 73 i did last year with poly bushings, OEM Nissan springs, and KYB nonadjustable strut cartridges. I love it for street driving, though if i was doing it again, I would opt for Eibach progressive springs instead. The OEM springs have almost doubled in price in the last 18 months! I assume the adjustable cartridges would be preferable, at least for race/autocross, but i can't justify the extra cost for a street ride (KYB was 34.00 each i think) HTH, Jeremiah www.shox.com www.suspension.com www.nopionline.com plus MSA, VB, etc..

A while back, i was tempted to swap the fuel/volt guage from a 280 into my 260.. Pete Paraska offered the following: "Yes, the volt gage. You can just hook the plus side of the volt gage to a key-on circuit and the other wire of the gage to ground to have that working. If you want the idiot light to work, you'd have to run two wires back to the dash to work it. Basically, you want to wire the idiot light in series with the field connection on the alternator." Don't know that this info helps at all, but its all i could come up with at the moment! I'm not sure if the idiot light would indicate over or under-charging, or what. What does the gauge read? HTH, Jeremiah

I forgot to ask- i need the little filter to attach to the valve cover, since i pulled the original style filter.. Does anyone have a source or part #, either K&N, or otherwise?

Victoria British sells replacement foam filters for the Weiand/ramflow type, for around $6each. I use a light oil, just put on a rubber glove, pour some on & squish it around like the sponge that it is..pretty low-tech. As far as the foam decomposing- yep it does. I have an old Yamaha 80cc scooter for zipping around the village- last month a chunk of foam broke loose & sucked into the carb:cry: . That shut it down very quickly! The good news is that carb cleaner dissolved it real quick, guess i should have changed that filter in the last 7 years:stupid: :stupid: ! (The Z's get MUCH better care)

Congrats, Keith! glad you found a pair & picked them up...must be easier to convince the kid (dog, for those that don't know), than to convince the wife. "Gee Honey, i'm gonna spend 500 bucks on taillights for the Z, here, why don't you just keep my left testicle in your pocket for a while.."ROFL zya, Jeremiah

i found a set of these on ebay last night- search for: triumph su carb* I think the set was only about $28 US! Might be worth a try if you need carbs on a budget. zya all.

99% right Keith!, they saved the fuel injection for the 280 in 1975 i believe. My 10/74 260 with the big fat ole bumpers had the flat-top Hitatchi carbs (until I bought it, that is...) Zya, Jeremiah

Excellent advise.. just use the search function here to find hundreds of threads to find most of your answers- when you don't find an answer, just ask. The only thing i ask is you don't call anything before 1978 a "ZX" Makes me cringeROFL Jeremiah -> see if the 74 has original carbs- if so junk 'em (when you look at them, if they look like a 1 pound coffee can shape, they're original)

I saw some full kits on Ebay for around $150, i believe the seller was this guy: http://zdatsun.com/suspension.html At his website i think he lists it for $169. I bought the parts individually from www.zbarn.com last year for my 73, price was less i think, but i didn't do the rear. I paid a local mechanic to install the poly, as well as all 4 springs & strut cartridges- maybe a couple other oddball things- his labor was $300. Well worth it to me not to bust my arse & curse alot! If i was broke, i guess i'd do it myself though.. Jeremiah

i had a dim left lamp on my 73- i spent 4 hours getting the bloody screws out the change the bulb and chase the wiring...in the end, it was an *almost* burnt fuse (under the endcap where it wasn't apparent):stupid: Do try to clean tighten at the fuse block, and simpler yet, swap the fuses to see if the problem moves.. My 4 hour education was a 3 minute fix- go figure!:tapemouth

yeah, that would be cool. i was searching old posts at zdriver and zcar.com, and noticed a banner ad that one of them offered it! Hey Mike- need another project??:classic:

On 240's you go through the glove comp, but late 260 and 280's, you unscrew 4 screws that hold the center vent assmbly in the dash. then 2 brackets that it attaches to (2 screws each) remove, then pull out the plastic air vent in back (slide the hose on each side off & wiggle it out). then use a short handle screwdriver to unhook the strap that holds the gauge in place. the top of the strap will pivot so you can pull the gauge out, you just have to unplug the wiring- thats it- i've done it five times in eight months in my 260- i am getting mighty quick now!:cross-eye

i got a single cover (MSA) off ebay for $50 a few years ago (i only needed the drivers seat) It's not perfect, but certainly close enough for a driving car- you really have to look to discern the differences, FWIW Jeremiah

Hey Coastguard- was just looking at www.collectorcartraderonline.com and found an early 74 260 in Churchville,NY. asking $3300 i think- looks decent, and only about 40 miles from you! Zya around, check out www.zccr.net & let me know if you wanna drive to one of our meetings in Rochester (1st Thurs each month) Jeremiah

C'mon Keith- there WILL be someone with more $$ than brains, that will need GPS so they don't get lost on the course here at Watkins Glen!! Zya, Jeremiah and yes, i agree with you completely.

First things first. Street racing is not advised nor condoned. If you feel compelled to, DON'T BE AN IDIOT! I too have been known to drive on the edge, but i risk myself and my property only- I make damn sure other people are not in harm's way. Please, please, please- Be careful. If someone were to harm my family driving like an idiot- I'd hunt them down! (steps down from soapbox) That said- basically practice brings quick starts off the line. You probably could benefit from the calculator here: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ The powerband seems to be 3000 to 5000rpm in my cars, the Z engine will rev to 6000 easily, so i'd guess perhaps you're shifting too soon. You can find shift points at RPM/speed for your drivetrain with the calculator to keep you at max power. Hope that helps! Remember- don't be stupid, we can't afford it! Zya, Jeremiah

Is it an "ignition interlock" override? Seems my 74 and 73 *had* a relay there, it was an emergency switch that allowed the car to be started when the system failed. I believe it had to do with the seatbelt warning light/buzzer, etc, etc. I just tried to reconnect the system inmy 74- suddenly after reconnecting the sensors under the seats, the ignition didn't work. The switch in the engine bay is already gone, so i unhooked 'em again, and now it works fine again. HTH, Jeremiah

i'm working too. Sucks!. You're right, there oughta be a law.. Nice to "meet you in person" though. Zya Jeremiah

If you have fuel, then we assume no spark.. Try pulling a plug/wire & cranking it- basically work your way backwards- spark at the plugs, coil, etc Check all the wires & the points/condensor. Its gotta be there somewhere! HTH

So, a friend has a couple of 280 starters from parts cars (gear-reduction i believe?) Anyone know if it's a direct bolt-on replacement? I *assume* so, but we all know what that gets you.. Thanks JA

I dunno, but you may try calling Charlie Osborne at Zed Findings in Kingston Ontario- he may be able to help. i *think* its www.datsunzparts.com If that ain't it, a search will find him for you. HTH, Jeremiah

Thanks- i assume i could hook up a remote start to test the starter, correct?? I believe i have also read that the solenoid is about $55, while the starter/solenoid combo is maybe $65-70- i havn't checked yet, but does that sound possible? I'll keep everyone posted when i discover the answer (assuming it starts so i can get home from work:stupid: ) Oh, and assuming its the solenoid- it "clicks" on when the key is turned to start, then a milder click when the key is relased to "on"- sound correct? Which would be more likely, that ot enough voltage is transmitting through, or that the starter or solenoid is bad? Thanks again!

Hi all, here's the deal. 10/74 260Z with 72 SU's, otherwise stock. The last month or so, when i turn the key to "start", i get an audible "click" from the engine compartment, but the starter does not activate. Sometimes it works the first try, other times i have to turn the key 3,5, or 10 times before it kicks.. I've cleaned/greased/tightened the battery terminals, as well as the starter connections- sometimes it behaves, others it doesn't. As I haven't had a helper with me, i haven't been able to turn the key AND listen to see whether the "click" is from the starter or from some other relay or such. Any ideas?? Could it be the starter itself going bad, or more likely i have missed some corrosion in the elecrical system somewhere? Thanks for any ideas!, Jeremiah Axtell 73,74

CongratZ! as far as the tranny selection: here is an excellent tool to help with the multitude of arrangements possible- http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ Zya, Jeremiah

Yep, "ditto" to what Keith said:p