AxtellZ

Huh. Been a few years since i replaced a mech pump- is there anyway the actuating lever that makes it pump is out of whack, and not contacting the cam to pump properly??? When you crank the engine, with the fuel line removed at the pump, can you hear it "sucking"? No pun intened there, folks. I'm stumped, i need some coffee to think this out some more!

I'm with Kmack.. I no nothing about webers, but i think its way too rich. Possibly really weak ignition- what's the state of that? Do you know much about the webers? Backing out the screws 5 turns- does that lean, or richen the mixture? Wish i could help more, but thats why i run SU's- simple as a toilet!

Hmmmm. Not sure if the pump would need to be "primed"- don't *think* so, but maybe it won't draw if its totally dry..... When you blew air into the line entering the carb- did it flow through the rail & back to the pump (could you hear/feel it there?) Or did it just blow up & out to the other carb?? That would indicate a blockage from pump to rail, or early in the rail itself i'd think..

Sure as hell a good investment, those "Mechanix" gloves!! Me, i'm too damn lazy/cheap/stoopid to own my own set:stupid: But i've used 'em, and thinking about it- i should go buy a pair before i adjust my valves next. Do as i say, not as i do...

I thinks i'm confuzed:ermm: You pulled lines where=no gas? I'd start behind the new mechanical pump (between the pump & the tank). Drop the line that goes into the pump in a container of fuel- Does it draw fuel from that container? If it does, the blockage would be between the pump & tank. If not- your mech pump is bad (shouldn't be if new!) or theres a blockage from pump to carbs. Did you check the floats, or needles in the carbs? Filter screens in the banjo fittings on the float bowls? Will fuel (or air) flow from the pump, to the inlet of the carb bowls? As i reread your post, it seems your tank pickup may not be feeding gas- if thats the case though, it should work fine feeding from another fuel container into the pump... It's gotta be something simple- let us know. JA

Dawn, I like to think of all these people here as family.. Thanks, hope you are doing Okay. You'll always be welcome:classic: Jeremiah

I asked Classicdatsun a few years ago- they sell the original "spook". Said, "nope" won't fit on a 260 or 280, only recommended one for 70-73 cars. I 'spose you could attempt to "make" it fit, but i decided to leave it off my 74.5, and i'll buy one for my 73 when its near paint time.

Hey Will- i checked your Ebay feedback, but it's all for "Mature Audiences, Porno, etc" Whats up with that??! ROFL Seriously- good advice here, i await a list of "stuff" i don't need, but may buy anyway, anxiously. Dale, got a decent rear 73 bumper? Jeremiah

Sure they didn't say "steering coupler"? Beats me, never heard of such a thing. Then again, i only attempt to work on old cars! JA

Wow. Calm down, everyone.... Giving the club the finger won't help, i'd guess- I'd be glad to help, but i know zippo about fuel injection- give me simple toilet carbs any day. Do you have any manuals for the FI? I'd *guess* its a AFM, or cold start valve, etc. But to be honest i have never worked on FI. Have you tried the IZCC mail list www.zhome.com to signup. I bet Kim Blough in Idaho could fix you up in no time. May be worth it to try that. Good luck, sorry you feel you've been jerked around here- but few of us have a clue about FI, and so wouldn't post a reply when we don't know. You're still okay with me though- Jeremiah

My current 260 has a sunroof- it is very well installed, doesn't leak, etc. It's nice. BUT- i'd rather it were not there! For starters, i have to keep the seat reclined more than i care for, or my head hits the frame of the sunroof (that REALLY sucks) Can't imagine driving with a helmet on:mad: Also, the integrity of the car is compromised, to some degree. With no frame on a Z, if you plan on race or autoX events, i wouldn't even think of installing a sunroof. I 'spose if you really want one, and you did structural support such as a cage, or tube frame, it'd be okay- but i'd pass on it myself. Jeremiah

Car looks/sounds nice- where exactly is it? Say how far to Buffalo, etc? And what mods, precisely? Still have the triple carbs? Is it a Canada, or US spec car? Thanks for any more info- i am abou 1.5 hours SW of Buffalo- maybe i can take the new fast ferry!

Hi Ben I graduated from Albany College of Pharmacy (Albany, NY) in 1990. Back then it was a 5 year program- but for a Bachelor's degree. A couple years ago all the schools pushed for a 6 year doctorate instead. So now, you get to PAY an extra 20 or 30 THOUSAND dollars for that last year, working for FREE on clinical rotations... Basically, easy cash for the schools. It ain't easy being male, white, and middle-classLOL Good luck to the GF, its worth it at the end

I had to vote "Masters degree", though technically, i have a 5 year bachelors in Science (Pharmacy). Regulations have changed, now it's a 6 year doctorate program (glad i got out when i did!) Of course i practice what i studied, can't afford not to!!!!!!! Still have yet to grow up though..

Well, it probably won't help those of you on the other side of the planet, but here: http://www.vintageair.com/ If one were building "from scratch", this would be ideal...assuming you don't mind spending $$'s

Did you flush new fluid through and bleed the system, or just wipe out the reservoir and pour in new fluid? Sounds as if the lines may be full of goo, and nothing working properly... We need a bit more detail i think. Jeremiah

I think 5K is steep as well. Rust holes will be fixed? How exactly? I'd rather pay less & take it as is, then do it myself, to be sure it's done right! Hate to see some a$$ do a quickie bondo-fix and pass it off as good:finger: That said, early Z values are/have been climbing steadily, but cars with "issues" should still be discounted a good deal. Maybe you can search some of Carl Beck's comments on Z car value as of late.

So sorry, Dawn. We all feel terrible for your/our loss. I wish i could say something to make you feel better.... Hang in there. Jeremiah

www.paintucation.com

I'm with MikeW, how are you adjusting the carbs??

I have Mr K's autograph on my 260 owner's manual, (as do many of us). I could scan & post it or email it if you're serious about this..

Bill's got the idea. You may try a hardwood dowel, or soft metal like brass, etc, instead of a screwdriver. 1) less likely to destroy the retaining nut 2) less chance of sparks Otherwise, in the odd chance you have a jewelers tool, as is used to remove watch casings etc- may help. Good luck

where's the post?? You mean you can't remove the sending unit from the tank 'cause it's rusted in place?

Not sure of suspension.com's price, but summit racing was marginally cheaper when i bought the "hyperflex" urethane kit.

Many moons ago, when my 73 auto blew a line, i believe we just went to NAPA and had new one made from hydraulic line. Fast & cheap. If you haven't already learned, get a set of flare-nut wrenches to remove & install.