AxtellZ

Anyone see this: http://autoshow.msn.com/as/autoshow2004/article.aspx?xml=chrysler1&shw=autoshow2004 Damn, what a ride! The Chrysler Group set the bar in terms of both design and performance at NAIAS 2004, revealing the stunning ME Four-Twelve super sports car prototype. The ME Four-Twelve mid-engine prototype was the dramatic conclusion to the Chrysler Group reveal of four concept cars that also included the Dodge Sling Shot, Jeep Rescue and Jeep Treo. Wolfgang Bernhard, chief operating officer of the Chrysler Group, drove the ME Four-Twelve onstage and emphasized that the super sports car is not really concept car, but a working prototype. Chrysler also showed design ideas for Dodge and Jeep in the forms of the Dodge Sling Shot, Jeep Rescue and Jeep Treo. The Sling Shot is a new design for an affordable yet fun-to-drive sporty car. Designed for the most extreme off-road conditions, the Jeep Rescue gets outfitted as the ultimate search-and-rescue vehicle. The Jeep Treo, which debuted in Tokyo, shows where the Jeep brand may be in the distant future. ME Four-Twelve By far the most dramatic of the four vehicles was the beautiful, purposeful ME Four-Twelve. This supercar was made all the more impressive by the revelation from Trevor Creed, senior vice president of the Chrysler Group design, that the ME Four-Twelve was complete in less than one year. The ME Four-Twelve name is derived from the mid-engine placement of a quad-turbo 6.0-liter V12 engine. Bernard explained the name is appropriate because the car was literally designed around the engine. The AMG-developed all-aluminum 6.0-liter V12 engine produces 850 horsepower and 850 lb-ft of torque, and the car has a curb weight of only 2,880 pounds. Power get transferred to the wheels via a 7-speed Ricardo Double Clutch Transmission developed specifically for the vehicle; it uses the latest double wet-clutch technology and electronic controls. The transmission delivers uninterrupted torque to the rear wheels, shifting between gears in 200 milliseconds. The ME Four-Twelve is intended to set new performance standards for a mid-engine rear-wheel-drive sports car. Although the performance has not been measured in driving tests, with the aid of computer modeling Chrysler expects the ME Four-Twelve to set new performance standards for a rear-wheel-drive mid-engine sports car: a top speed of 248 mph, or 400 kilometers per hour. The ME Four-Twelve is expected to accelerate from zero to 60 mph in 2.9 seconds and from zero to 100 mph in 6.2 seconds.

Hi all- For Christmas, my loving wife bought me the polyurethane hyperflex master bushing kit for my "late" 260Z. Just got the suspension video from Ztherapy too. So, while its apart, i'll replace the balljoints and outer tie rod ends & whatever else i need/afford. Does anyone have an opinion (well, of course you do..) about using OEM Nissan, versus Moog or ACDelco aftermarket parts? The price differential is astounding! May also grab a set of Eibach progressive springs- will relatively new KYB cheapo strut cartridges work okay with thos springs? Thanks everyone- please send some warm air to western NY, its 12 degrees F in my garage at the moment...BRRR.. Jeremiah

OMG, i forgot- Bastard?!, Step-child?!! Come on Keith, you know you love my BRIGHT YELLOW late 260- you're just jealous because i have a car, no wait- two cars- that i can actually start up & drive!!

I'll chime in here- i have an early 73, as well as a late 74 260. Both had flat-tops when i got them. Both have clean round top SU's now:love: The 73 ran, but not terribly well- the carbs were dirty & out of tune. Never have had a vapor lock problem with either, but then i live in cool NY... The 260 actually ran very well when i got it, in spite of the tuna cans. But, just one look in the engine bay is enough for me. The older carbs just look so much cleaner, less plumbing, less to go wrong, simple to work on and tune. Why would i keep that mess i had? I did run the 260 quite awhile with it's original carbs, and all was fine- but the minute i found a bargain on a set of SU's- i bought them, cleaned/refreshed them- and never looked back. The tuna cans now have a lovely home in the upstairs of my barn:D

Okay, gotta try this file attaching again...

Well, kinda late in the year for us in NY:sleepy: Where exactly are you? Too bad you missed the national convention in New Hampshire earlier this month... Give us your location & maybe someone close can hook you up with a local club. Good luck, Jeremiah

Don't be afraid of them!! People seem to think it involves some sort of VooDoo- as you'll see in the video, SU carbs are as simple as a toilet! Once you dive in, its easy. My advice: clear a nice work area, and do one at a time, so you can reference back to the "whole" carb if you fear you've screwed up. Good luck, JA

I've used the cheap rebuild kits 3 times now (3 differenr carz) with no problems. Mostly it's cleaning that seems to make them work well. The fuel line is the 4 inch or so hose that runs from the bottom of the float bowls to the nozzle. The cheap kits are okay/iffy- i use them, but the ZTherapy is definately better- you can order just the hose for $8 each from Ztherapy. Also- the stripped screw: i've used a dremmel tool with a cut-off disk to "cut" a slot into the screwhead to use a regular screwdriver. But- be careful, and you'll need a new screw for sure! Good luck, Jeremiah

Far as i know, the dash and armrests are black in all Z cars 70 to 78. Maybe not in the latest 280's, but i think through at least 1976. As far as pics, just go cruize the gallery and look at all the pretty Z cars, and an "image search" at google.com maybe. Good luck, Jeremiah

Yep, it's really my house- my Z is at the top of the driveway, out of sight. You can see more in the photo's at: http://www.zccr.net/site/modules.php?full=1&set_albumName=album25&id=DSCN1404_JerSue_House_3&op=modload&name=Gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

Which leaves option B, removing the heater control panel and going in from below.. Easiest to loosen the heater control cables at their ends rather than at the panel. Good luck!

I'd leave the identifier on there. One day, when you're old and forgetful, you'll be glad to know what you've gotLOL

check the timing, also- is it valve clatter? If the valves went way out of adjustment it could lose power and make all kinds of racket under hard acceleration.. Good luck!

You're welcome!:classic: Actually, i was going to do the same to get a look at a V8 '73 240z a couple years back being sold in Kalifunny. But, a couple of club members from the area drove the 2 hours to look at it for me, and emailed pics and a drive report. Turned out a flop (REALLY glad i didn't waste 4 grand!!) Hope i helped you abit, as those 2 kind souls wouldn't take anything from me for the effort. This place is THE BEST:D

I'm guessing its from a roadster, but i have never owned one, so its just a guess:ermm:

Can't help out much being in NY:ermm: but, may i suggest buying & mailing the owner a "disposable" camera.. He can take the 27 pictures from every angle of the car, then mail it back to you- You have it developed, and you're set. As long as the owner is in no hurry, it should work okay for both of you. Just a thought. Jeremiah

I think you'll need to provide a whole lot more detail to get any worthy response.. The whaletail is just an aftermarket add-on in all likelyhood. Racing package? Don't think any by nissan. Been plenty of race cars built by the masses though! The valve cover- "Nismo racing" or something maybe? Thats Nissan's race/competition arm, could just be an aftermarket cover- We really need more info to help much. Try www.zhome.com Carl has a bunch of info on racing history, amongst a plethora of Z info there. Hope that helps abit, but your info is really too vague to tell you much else. Zya, Jeremiah

That's made by Energy Suspension, right? If so, its what i put in my 73 a couple years ago. I also did springs & struts at the time- it drives like its on the proverbial rails! My car was at a friends Muffler/Brake shop at the time, so i had him install it all (i think about $300US). It can be done at home, plenty of us do, providing you have basic tools, space, and ability. I would definately recommend urethane, especially for a track or autoX car. also, i just got the following price quote on the kit for my 74- told him i would post his info here, so thanks for starting this thread! Here his email: -> Kit will included: front & rear control arm bushings, front strut rod bushings, front & rear bump stops, rack & pinion bushings, differential carrier mustache bar bushings, steering coupler bushings, front end links, tie rod end boots, transmission crossmember bushings, rear sway & end link bushings. Cost $136.00 + $8.00 shipping Thanks You, Carlos Don Bonwitt Enterprises Inc. 14395 Sw 139 CT #109 Miami FL 33186 Ph. 305-251-4594 Ebay id: competitionwarehouseusa Paypal account: carlos@competitionwarehouseusa.com I'll be ordering when the snow hits NY- *this is the exact kit in Victoria British that lists for $219.00! Hope that helps some of you, Jeremiah

My 260 had a fair-to-decent sunroof installed 2 owners ago. It was showing age, mostly glass & seal, but no rust to speak of. When the last PO had the car painted, they installed a new sunroof that really looks good, IMO. Now the car rarely sees rain, is stored inside, and gets taken care of with pride- little chance this one will rust either. However, i have seen several that were just NASTY!! Plexiglass, caulk used to seal up around them, just ugly:sick: The one downside of mine, is that i lose about 3/4 inch of headroom- okay unless you want to wear a helmet:stupid: Also detracts from the resale value to the true collector, but mine is staying as-is. Jeremiah

Oh yes, i also forgot- WD40 is okay, but for penetrating oil, Kroil is the best i've found ( www.kanolabs.com ). Slop the penetrant on & let it sit, repeat a few times. Then try removal- using a screwdriver, whack it firmly into place with a hammer, then try turning it. Also can use GOOD vicegrips (be sure the "teeth" are sharp), or even a drill to remove the heads if all else fails, then you can remove the light assembly & get access to the stuck screw(s) to remove the mess when the light is out of the way. But most importantly, if you're not going to tackle it now- keep applying a penetrating oil till you do, and when you put it back together, apply anti-seize! Good luck, Jeremiah PS- Z lights are kinda weak to begin with, you can probably leave the high beams on & noone would noticeLOL

And another note- My 73 had one side out, i spent 4 hours getting through the crusty mess to remove the bulb, only to find it was fine. I had a bad fuse!! I suggest you swap the Left & Right side fuses to verify its actually the bulb first! The good news was that yes, i replaced the screws so they can now come off with a socket or nut-driver, AND they have anti-seize.. If all else fails, cut a nice slot in the crusty screwheads with a Dremel cut-off wheel, then use a big screwdriver to remove them. Good luck! Jeremiah

I've gotta think nearly EVERYONE is going to go with a manual transmission if looking for race-type driving.. That said, i have a 73 with the original auto- i planned to put in a 5 spd, but then i bought the 74... so, i left the auto alone, so my wife can drive the 73 and not complain how hard it is to drive around here with a manual. If it were my choice- 5 speed for sure. Benefits surely outway the drawbacks. Maybe you can outfit one of the clutchless "paddle-shift" racing transmissions??

as far as access to the guage- i believe in the 71 you can pull out the glove box, then reach in and remove the screw holding each guage in place. Once out, take a look-see, just a couple screws to pull her apart to get to the bezel. As far as the pressure dropping at idle, its normal in the L6 anyway. Both of my carz (73 & 74) run about 60 to 75psi when revving, but drop to 10 or 20 at idle. From what i've been told, that is by design, and normal.

I am guessing its a battery/alternator/VR problem. I would take the batt & alt into your local parts store to have them tested. ( My 2cents is on the alternator) The dim light, weak spark/ignition, sounds like it's just short on juice. By having the parts tested, you can avoid just guessing & tossing $$ at the problem. Good luck, let us know what you find Jeremiah

Hi Ed, You might try Barry Brown at Riter Restorations in East Rochester (585)385-4151. Not sure if they do their own, or farm it out, but they may be able to help.. Jeremiah