Jackhammer

E, The ole' search mode produced this from Carl Beck and several other threads that touch some on the N33 Head. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=155130&highlight=N33+Head#post155130

Do a search. There is some interesting info. to be found.:classic:

Since you have all three sets switch'em around every four months... Seriously, I love the look and shape of a Z so much just about anything would look good. Even the original hub cap looks good to me. But, if I had to pick just one from the three you have chosen and since I am currently in a resto mod phase...I would go with the 280ZX wheels.

One key additional thing I did before welding was spray the areas in question with a weldable primer that I picked from the auto paint supply. I then basically followed the procedures described by Escanlon, beandip, and hls30.com.

I seriously doubt it.

There's a fool born every minute.:stupid:

What I was installing this past weekend was a generic Dyna-Mat like product. It's a 60 mil. rubber mat (closed cell) with a aluminum foil on one side and adhesive on the other. Ebay has several sellers that sell it...it's about a $1.00 a square foot. In addition to that I first applied a gal. of the Dupli-Color Truck bed liner to the floor and inside the doors. I will finish it with a couple of layers of 3/8" thick aluminum laminated fiber padding. Hopefully... that will be enough so that I only hear a nice low mellow rumble of the pipes.

Sorry... Gregg failed to notice your thumbnails below. :nervous: I ditto what beandip is saying. The floors appear to be solid. I as well have extensive before and after shots in my gallery of a complete floor pan, frame rail replacement and POR 15 process etc... I am currently in the process of installing the sound deadning insulation. I live in Houston ...PM me if you would like some info., sources and/or help with you Z in the Houston area.

Hi Greg, Are you doing both the inside and out?

Thanks... Dave. I just came in from the garage were I was starting to sort through the wiring to re-install since pulling it out for the restoration. Sheesh.. Looks like fun. I am going to make these. Makes no sense not to since I am doing a complete resto/mod. Thanks for all your effort.

I am with you there. Also, I believe your correct about not needing the front valance. He would just need the tun signals.

They could in conjunction with some additional custom fabrication. If I am not mistaken you will have to weld in threaded plates to the back of the valance and lower side fender for the rear brackets to work. The front is going to require the entire lower valance with turn signal lights etc. beyond that I am not that familiar with the later larger bumper versions. I would have to look at it closer. Arne... you were doing pretty good. Perhaps, you can help him further. Like...I said earlier... it is not impossible. It is going to require fabrication and additional parts from an earlier model for it to work. Post some pics of the front and rear.