zguitar71

Look at www.arizonazcar.com, the fronts are $750 and the bolt right up and look great. I have the stock set up and have not had a problem though. I use very sticky goodyear slicks on the Autox course and have no problems with fade or lack of stopping power. With the sticky tires on I can stop suprizingly well (when they are warm, cold they lock right up (not the brakes fault though)).

I just changed over to Illuminas from KYB's. The difference is great. I have not autoxed with them yet (first race April 24th) but driving around town in places where I can "let loose" they are far better than the KYB's. They seem to have more compression dampening. On 5 they are very stiff. I cruise around town on 1 front and rear and the ride is better than the KYB's but I can still take a corner fast. I will probably race with them on 4 and play with the front and rear settings until I find a nutral piont. Thay are not that much more if you find the right place. I paid $355 for the 4 of them from JDMWerks on Ebay. That is about the same price as the KYB's from MSA (if my memory is correct). I suggest the Iluminas over KYB's if you are Autoxing but if you are not then get the Blue Tokico's.

What do they charge for a rebuild?

So much for the Z apropriate weather, we just returned to winter and the z just returned to the garage.

You would need a spacer, a 40mm would be the most appropriate. Try to get the offset of the wheel to 0 if possible.

There is a standard for tire rim widths. But the only table I have seen is for tires with a 50% aspect ratio and lower. I believe the 50's called for a max wheel width of 85% of the tire width so a 225 could go on a 7.5" wheel, a 195 would use a 6.5" wheel. 6.5" seems a little conservitive to me. I have a friend that runs 195/60/14 on a 7" wheel and the tire does not look very streached at all. My guess is a 7.5" wheel would work but that would be the absolute limit of a 195. If you go too far the sidewall will be weakened. The overall carcass of a 195 is 7.67" so the tire is still wider than the wheel measurement. I have seem many pictures of 9.5" wheels with 225's which is more of a streach than what you are looking at. Watch out for curbs since the wheel lip will hit before the tire. I am not an expert on this so I could be wrong, I bet the tire rack could answer you though.

I like to operate a calculator, not as much as a Z, but more than most. I once bought a set of race tires and wheels, The tires were Goodyear cantilever slicks, they measure 264/36/15 but are made to fit onto a 7" wide wheel so they stickout 1.2" past the wheel lip. They are tricky to calculate the correct offset needed for the right fitment. I went with what I thought would work and perchased the wrong offset wheel that were non returnable. They were Diamond wheels so they only set me back $250 (as compared to $1000+ for light weight custome wheels). So I learned how to measure wheel offset pretty fast after that.

Thanks EScanlon!

Tires will not make a difference on a wheel with that much offset. The inside of the wheel will hit the spring perch even with a very skinny tire. You will need spacers to get the wheels to fit properly. You want the wheels to be as close to 0 offset as you can get them. So go for a 38mm spacer if you can (giving a 4.25" backspace). I would not go with any more than 4.5" of backspace either. IMO a 205/45/17 would be best size, that way you should be able to aviod any rubbing issues. If the offset is + or - a little from 0 then the 205 width give you a litte room. A 32mm spacer will yeild a 4.5 back space (+6.35 mm offset), any smaller than that and you will probably have problems. IMO life would be easier if you went to a 16x7 or 15x7 with a 0 offset and correct bolt pattern such as Panasports or Konig rewinds or any of the custome wheel makers out there. the smaller wheels and tires are better because they weigh less, and wheels that fit right with out spacers are the way to go. A 15x7, 0 offset with a 225/50/15 will handel as well or better than a 17 with spacers and 205/45/17.

I was refering to a earlier reply that had a quote form me in it. I guess I should start using the quote button.

I could care less if the Neon is a safe car or not, I was just having fun. I do realize the old Z's are not very crash worthy and a new neon is far safer. But I will take the risk daily because I love my Z.

We are haveing record breaking warmth and dryness. So like the trees around here the Z's are comming out early. I usualy have mine in the garage until april but I have it out now. Some of my friends got theres out in Feb. If the streets are free of deicer then the Z is out.

Say, where is Mrs. 240z?

O.k. not break neck. I think a helmet should serve as the necessary requirement to drive at "break neck" speeds. You could add the HANS for good measure too. Now back to selling the Z, DON'T SELL IT!

Do not sell it; you will regret it, you have not sold it yet and regret it. Save your pennies and spend it on the Z. Like Tomohawk said they have the worst side impact rating. Do you really want a car like that when he is around driving at break neck speeds with a helmet on? I could understand if your delema was over an E36 M3 Bimmer but a Neon? Front wheel drive? Stay loyal to the brotherhood. Do not be a lost sheep in the sea of mundane modern non rice burning rice cars. TAKE THAT CAR OFF EBAY!

I drive on the street with my Tokico Illumina's on one. It is a little soft but so am I. I have 180/200LBS springs front/rear. For autox I will crank them up depending on the course. On the glassy surface track we use I'll go to 5/4 (front/rear) the bumpier courses I will probably use 4/3 but the first race is April 24th so time will tell more than I can right now.

Yes I do play the guitar. I have been at it for the last 22 years. I have 6 of them right now but I am getting ready to sell one of them. One day when I have a high speed connection I am giong to post pictures of the Z and the guitars. Do you play too?

A wheel with an offset of 0 means the mounting surface of the wheel is in the exact center of the wheel. A +38 offset means the mounting surface of the wheel is 38mm toward the outside of the wheel from the centerline of the wheel. So a +38 wheel that is 7" wide would have a BSM of approx. 5.5" (including .5" for wheel lip) which is too much for a Z. The 0 offset 7" wheel would have a BSM of 4". As the wheels get wider the offset go to the negative side to keep the BSM in the correct area. 4.5" of back space would be about the maximun a stock Z could have.

At 10:21 this morning I posted: "No problem. That is what I like about this site, people are much more diplomatic. Thanks" It was on another thread; diplomacy does not exist on this one.

I will get smeared for this but oh well; 920 GOLD.

You might want to replace those big 280 bumpers with even bigger ones too. Maby you could get some to go all the way around the car.

I do not think you will get the weight down to the 240's unless you gut the entire interior. You could replace body parts (like the hood) with light weight ones but that will get pricey after a while. The easiest thing to do to get the weight to a 240's is to buy a 240.

No problem. That is what I like about this site, people are much more diplomatic. Thanks

Hey DOGMA420, notice I said IN MY OPINION the older the better. That does not mean I am wrong, or right for that matter.

What are doing that you need a helmet on the street? What ever it is I'm glad I do not live in Cleveland (well, at least not when your out needing a helmet while street driving).