zguitar71

That is geat, I have a couple of LSD's too. But if I was tring to sell them I would put them in the classifieds and not in a thread. People are here to get and give info not buy stuff, they go to the classifieds for that. Mabey you should move your add there.

If you do not have a big cam (larger than a MSA stage 3) then you can make quite a bit of power with the ZT's. I have them and they work great but milage is not so good. If I stay out of the throttle then i can get close to 20 MPG but all it takes is a couple of times hard on the gas and the milage is shot. I quit worring about milage, I got 14 on the last tank but that was with 2 autox races and my foot was in it for the rest of the tank on the street. I would keep the webbers, aint broke don't fix it applies here. +they are great carbs.

I ran a 3.54 and a 4 speed with the same size tires for about a year. On the open road I turned 400-4500 rpm all the time, got a little loud at times but I had instant power on the hills. Around town that set up was great the gearing was very nice.

O.K. I am not tring to start a disscusion on global warming or anything so please do not respond in that way. But, it is 45 degrese here in Missoula Montana today (way above normal), and has been warm for the last 2 weeks. So now the snow has melted and the streets are dry and the Z has the insurance reinstated. I took it out of storage today 2 months early and had a blast. It took a while to get the motor and tires warm but when it all fell in place I got a smile on my face of unusual proportions. I am sure it will get cold again and snow more but I think our usual snow pac and ice cloged streets for 3+ months is not going to happen this year like it has not in the past few years. Not so great for the winter lover in me but fantastic for the Z lover in me. Just thought I would post a thread about gettin' the Z out for a spin.

I have R190 in my car the side shafts are the same. I have no idea what the break away is on mine but my crappy street tires do not give enough traction to unlock it all the time. When the race tires are cold it does not unlock either, when they are warm it works like a dream though. I have 2 tubes of the GM modifier in it and have no problems with wierd noises or chatter.

Your motor should safely rev to 7K and run all day at 5K with out any problems. At 3K you are just getting into the power band. I would not change the rear at all. You will loose off the line acceleration. You probably have a zx 5 speed judging from the 3K at 70, the 3.9 rear is the standard most people use. Personally I would like to run a 4:11 rear with mine. If you want longer time between shifts then rev the motor to 7K before shifting. With the 5 speed and 3.9 I do not think you have the power to take it to 7K in 5th, that would be around 150+ MPH. Do you really want to go that fast in a `70 Z anyway? The motor was designed to make power up high no low like a V-8, do not be timid with it, the best thing you can do for the motor is run it like it was built to be run.

The motor you have is built to run at a higher rpm. If you are running 3500 or so at 75 I would not worry about it. I am assuming the motor is cammed up a little so the power band will be a little higher than stock too. Before I put in a ZX 5 speed I had a 4 speed with a 3.54 and short tires so I cruised the highway at 4500 rpm all the time and never had any problems and was allways in the power band so I never had to downshift (well I still do not have to down shift, but the acceleration over the passes around here is not nearly as brisk in 5th). As far as topping out the speed in 4th, that could be the case. Depending on the tires size and gearing you might be able to go 135+ in 4th and going to 5th will actually lower the speed due to the rpm decrease thus falling out of the power band wile tring to slice through the air. Z are not very areo dynamic so it takes a lot of power to go real fast. 5th gear was designed to give better gas mileage/lower rpms not higher speeds. BTW a restored with a Rebello 2.7 sound like a dream car to me, congratulations!

$1300 for a set of 4 so they are probably more than twice as much but they are worth it IMO.

I like mine to appear fairly original, like the interior and body. I do choose to retain the I6 too but the internals of the motor and the suspension on the car are very different from the original. So over all I prefer original modified Z's, if that makes since.

Get the Volk wheels they are the right offset and boltpattern (15x7) and they are forged so they weigh only 9.5 LBS. THey do cost a lot though.

That depends on how the motor is built and the tire diameter. For autocrossing with a zx trans I prefer a 4:11 with my motor that is not all that built up (mild cam) and 22.5 inch diameter tires. If you have a big cam then you will need to be lower geared or if you have big tires (25+inches in diameter like 275/45/16's). There are a lot of variables.

$400 for the perches and sleeves, $600 for the camber plates (4 corners), $320 springs (4 corners). GC is not cheep at all, you get what you pay for though, very high quality. With shocks and sectioned strut tubes (if you have a shop do it) you can drop $2000+ very easily, and that is with Illumina's, racing shocks the $ goes up really fast.

I have seen the Konig and Panasport wheels side by side. The Panasport appear to be higher in quality as far as the finish is concerned. I have heard the construction of the Minilites and Panasports is top notch, have not heard about the konig wheels. IMO you get what you pay for. The Konig are less $ for a reason. As far as street wheels I think the Konig's are great wheels. They do not look cheep just not as nice as the Panasports. I think they are plenty strong for the street too. Though I just said you get what you pay for, I would sport a set of Rewinds on my street car, the price makes them hard to refuse but if you want the best then get the Minilites or Panasports or some of the other high quality brands like Watanabe or Volk Racing.

The stage 2 cam should idle fine.

The 3.54 will be rather high gearing, 10.83:1 (3.54) VS 11.93:1(3.9) overall 1st gear ratio. The Turbo's used a 3.54 in order to work well with the gearing ratios of the T5 transmissions. The ZX 5 speed and the 3.54 will be a bit of a dog off the line.

Those are all the reasons I would like to go with a P90. I have an E31 on an L28 right now and it works great and I will most likely not change that. I would like to build a 3.2 one day (dreaming probably), I think the p90 would be perfect for a 3.2, It should yeild about 10.5 CR with out any shaving. To make a powerful motor all the heads can work and they all take $ to get them there. So in the end you might as well start out with the best design from the factory and go from there.

I am not sure if that is for me or not. If it is for me then do not say "Cya" and them PM this to me: "You really look like you are backpedalling every since your "GM tester" turned out to be John Morton. Too bad you won't stand by your statements." I am not tring to back pedal. I disagree with the statement. Of course my experience is limited and baised on the auto cross course and the street. But I have owned and `87 Mustang, Saab 900 and the Zcar (and various trucks and vans). In stock form the Saab and the Z are superior to the Mustang except for a drag race. Yes the Saab is front wheel drive thus an entirely different car. However the balance of the Saab and the Z is much better and both car weigh much less (Saab 2760, autocrossed in stock and st. prepared; Z 2315, auto crossed in F prepared; Mustang over 3200 but not sure of the exact weight, did not race). The balance and the weight of the two cars contributed to their better feel and handeling. I do reconize that a stock Z and a F prepared Z are worlds apart and I have never raced a stock Z but I have driven a few stock ones very hard on the street for what it is worth. Now remember you started this hole argument and hyjacked this thread with the attack of my post containing the statement "they handel great too." What was the point of that? In the thread I talk of different mods including streathening the chasis, with low cost modifications (springs/shocks/swaybars) Z'S DO HANDEL GREAT! Mabey you should back off.

I agree. But those big wide race tires create drag........... :stupid:

I am not suggesting that, nor have I.

The amount of power that can come out of a v8 is much bigger than an L28. The mods you are talking about will not do much. To get power from the L28 you need to do head modifications like porting, cam, ect., and switch to Carbs or get bigger injectors and a new computer. Any way you slice it getting power cost money. But it does cost more to get a 250HP L28 than a 250 HP 350.

O.K. in stock form mabey they are not the best handeling car, though still far better than a muscle car. With Illumina's and Arizona Zcar springs like my car has it does handel great, and that is far from an expensive suspension set up too (of course good tires are required). What experts say they handel like an American car? GM's testers? The car's geometry has allowed the Z to be a competitive race car to this day. I say these expers are fools or they have an anti Zcar agenda. My personal experience racing many different American cars on the Auto Cross track, new and old, has shown me the Z car is better handeling and does not push around the track like the American car. The only American cars that handel well IMO are the Corvette, Viper and GT. The new Mustangs are not bad but they do understeer a bit too much.

There is a combination to turn a 2.8 into a 3.2. It involves using a crank from a Desiel Maxima from the `80's and pistons from a 240SX or a truck (89 mm bore, some are dish some are flat). There are many different combos but www.rebelloracing.com builds them to about 310-320HP. In a 240, with a little structural renforcement to take the twist, you could run the 1/4 in 12.5 sec. There is a guy called Brian510 over at www.hybridz.org that has one and is running even faster. I think that type of motor is right up your alley. The earlier 240's are lighter than the later 260's and 80's and the 280ZX is a pig. My `71 weighs in at 2315 LBS so you do not need a lot of power to make the car fast. They handel great too. IMO the 240's look the best too with the small bumpers and the older 240's are preemmisions (no catalitic) so depending on the state you can do more legally to the car. You might be able to find a decent 240 with a 2.8 already in it. The great thing is the amount of parts from other Nissans (Z and non Z) that will work in the Z. There is also the option of a turbo 2.8 from a ZX or if you have $ a twin turbo from a Skyline (RB26DETT). You can also use a V8. If you are into making the car fast do some searching around on hybridz, there is everyting under the sun over there. Rust: look at the floor pans, battery tray, around the hatch, FRAME RAILS. Rust on the outside means there is more hidden rust. Nevada, California, Montana, the Dakotas, Arizona all the dry western states are the best bet for a car with a good body.

Dreamy! Well it looks like there is a minumum character limit of ten, so I will say it again Dreamy!

On this site: http://www.upgrademotoring.com/performance/240z.htm, there are cams from a company called JUN.? I am assuming it is Japanese. These cams are long durration, the shortest is 296 and they go to 314 or so, but the lift on these cams is only in the .350" range. Usually cams with that type of durration are in the high .400's" to .600"+ range. What type of power curve would this type of cam produce? Is this unusual or am I not reading something right. They are very pricey too.