zguitar71

Full face is safer, and a SA rating (auto) is the best but I autocross with a S95 (motorcycle) rated openface helmet because it was $95 new and more comfy on hot days. Many of the SCCA racing types require an SA rated helmet so look into the specs of the racing you are doing before you buy a helmet that does not meet the requirements of the race. I do not know the rules for other racing but Autocrossing requires a S95 (S=SNELL rating system) (95 for 1995 specs) or better rating and it can be full or open face.

IMO, 240, the older the better. The 280's are heavy, 2700 LBS or so. The 240 weighs roughly 2350 LBS. The weight difference gives the car its feel, handeling, acceleration, ect... They are more "raw" too, no power steering brakes and stuff (if that appeals to you). Plus they have small bumpers and they come in great colors like 920 Gold . It is all just opinion though.

http://www.rs-watanabe.co.jp/index2.htm www.kodiakracingwheels.com www.ccwheel.com These are 3 very good places to get wheels in the proper bolt pattern width and offset for a zcar with flares. IMO 16x8.5 or 9 with a -19 offset and 245/45/16 tires are the way to go. I have thought about using them with flares myself. Many people use a 225/45 or 50 on the front but then you cannot rotate the tires for tread life. 245's would take a bit of effort to steer when going very slow but when you start moving would be fine. They are also the proper diameter for the zcar at 24.7" tall. They should be enough tire for massive amounts of traction. If you are driving on city streets to the limit of a good set of sticky street tires in that size you will surley end up loosing your liscense or end up in jail for wreckless driving or worse. I would not go with 15'" wheels because of the limited availability of tire choices. And 17's start to get kindaf heavy even with pricey lightweight wheels and the cost goes way up.

Yea the 105.5 should have been 102.5 it was a typo. Yes the 25.4 is the amount of mm per inch. If I ran anything larger than a 60 I would rub on the fender for sure so I thank a 60 series would be what you need. If the offset of your wheel is more than -12 you will still rub with the 60's. If you have a a 0 offset you should be able to run the 70's without rubbing. -12 was a very popular offset for the 14 inch wheels back in the day, if your wheels are "vintage" and you are rubbing they are probably -12's. I think the tires back in the early 70's that came on z's were the equivilent of a 175/78/14. They were listed as 175 SR or HR -14 in my `71 owners manual and I am pretty sure they were 24.7" tall. Tires that skinny would not rub with a -12 offset wheel.

If you take the size of the tire and divide by 2 (205/2 = 102.5); then take the amount of offset and add that to the number (105.5+9 = 111.5); then divide by 25.4 (111.5/25.4 = 4.38) you get the amout the tire will go past the mounting surface of the hub. if you subtract the offset you will get the amout the tire will be inboard (3.68"). So if you have a + offset wheel you would have to subtract the offset for the outer side of the tire and add for the inner amount of tire protrusion. So if you are tring to figure out how far inboard/outboard you can go this method works well. The width of the wheel does not factor in because the tire is centered on the wheel, but the width will affect the backspace of the wheel itself; the wider the wheel is the more backspace there will be if the offset stays the same. I think Konig assumed people would run narrower tires on the 14's than the 15's so they gave the wheel more - offset to keep the outer edge of the tire in the same spot. IMO they should have stayed with 0 offset for either size.

I would stay with a 205. That way the tire will be to the inner edge of the fender not to the outer edge like mine. I do not like the look of the tires at certain angles on my car. They are not far enough out to need flares but they do look like they stick out too far. With -9 offset and the right 205 tire (Yokohama ES100's) the whole thing should be in the right proportions. I have decided to get a set of the 15" silver Rewinds one day when I have the money. I fight the urge to go with flares and 16x8.5 -19 offset with 245/45/16's. I love the look but I just do not have the money for that. I also do not think I need the extra grip either, my crappy (Cooper Cobras) 205's with a limited slip grip very well so 225's in a sticky tire should be more than edequate.

The brand of tire makes a difference too. Some manufactures 225 are as wide as 9.4" and others are 8.8". Thre is a guy running Bridgestone so3 225/50's; they are 9.3' wide and he has no clearance problems. My 205 are 8.6" wide which is wider than 215mm. It would nice if the size stated on the sidewall was acurate.

I think anything Aston Martin is beautiful. I have always loved their cars.

The 15's are advertised as 0 offset and the 14's are advertised as -9 offset.

I have 205/60/14 on wheels with a -12 offset which makes the tire 4.5" from the mating surface of the hub to the outside edge. The 225/50 or 60 on a 0 offset wheel like the Rewind is 4.42" from the mating surface. My tires do not rub and if you look down the side of the car they are to the edge of the fender. The tires I have are very small in diameter at 23.7" VS the 225/60/15 at 25.6". That leeds me to think the rubing issue is with the large diameter of the 225/60/15. The 225/50/15 is 24" in diameter so it probably would not rub on a 0 offset wheel. A lot of people use the 225/50/15 size tire and offset wheel without problems such as Victor Laury. I also run racing tires that are 264/36/15 with a -12 offset wheel. They go past the fender about one inch (5.66" from the hub surface to the outer edge) but do not rub because they are only 22.5" tall.

I'll get another bottle and put it in. Thanks for the web site it has some helpful info.

I have never driven with the but I have a friend that has them on a `70 240 and realy likes them. I have read alot of post aout them and most are very positive, I think Tokico makes prety good stuff. You paid $100 more for your set than I did for just the Illuminas, $100 for good set of springs is a geat deal, I don't think you can go wrong there.

Everything checks out on the car as far as brakes or anything rubbing. I just drove the car for the last 45 minutes and did some figure 8's but the sound is still there. I have 1.5 Quarts of fluid in the case including 4oz of friction modifier. Does that sound like the right amount? I have never had a differential that whined from the gears being too close so I don't know what that sounds like, maby that is the problem here because the LSD works very well. I can drive in tight circles all day and the wheels will spin indipendantly but if I hit the gas they will spin together and the rear will shoot out (I could not resist going around once). On loose gravel it stays locked too so it seems to have a decent amount of break away torque.

I filled up yesterday for $2.19 a gallon for 91 octane. That is premium here we do not have 93 octane because of the elevation. some of the stations higher than us only have 89 octane for premium gas. And of course they sell it for the same price as the 91 here. It seems like a rip off, they probably pay the same for 89 as the gas stations around here, so they are making a nice little profit by being higher in elevation.

JDMWerks has been selling Tokico stuff on Ebay for a long time now. I bought a set of Illuminas for $355 a couple of weeks ago. If you keep checking you will see there add again. So all the poeple who did not get the last ones will get another chance. It is an awesome deal too; around 45% less than MSA. I wonder how they do it, or is MSA just real pricey? Probably a little of both.

I have not checked the brakes yet, I just put the car back together and double checked everything, I could have something wrong somewhere I guess. I just put this differential in for the first time, I go it used so I am a little worried about it.

I have an R200 clutch LSD, it is making a strange noise that gets louder when I go faster. I sounds like metal sliding across metal. It is not a scratching or screatching sound but more like a sliding sound something like schhhhhh.... The lsd action still works, it hooks up well with street tires but I have not used it with the race tires as I do not have a race until April the 24th. Do you think it is the friction plates and disks? Please help.

I just looked at the pictures of your car in your gallery. The wheels look great on your car and I like the white letter tires too. I realy would like to get a set of those wheels now. You could try a litle negative camber in the back. If the wheels lean inward a little they might just clear the fender lip. You can try rolling the lip too. I gotta say it again; your car looks awesome with the konigs.

Silver IMO; the gunmetal wheels always look dirty to me. The silver looks clean and crisp.

http://www.arizonazcar.com/fly.html I have this flywheel and love it (turbo size). It is not nearly as pricey as some of the other light ones on the market. If you cannot get your FW turned then I would think about this one.

Keep it in your car! But since people are into trading, I will trade my 4:35 LSD R200 (12m.m. bolts) straight across for your diff. I would like to go back to an R180 and 4:11 is the perfect gear ratio. As far as the value; I could be way off here but, in good shape and rare and desireable = $1000+.

I used a vacumme bleader I bought for $35. The clutch: I opened the slave bleeder and pumped the fluid free of bubbles. The brakes: First I blead the master cylinder then the brakes from LR, RR, RF,LF. Make sure the resevoirs are full of fluid and do not pump them dry or the process starts over again. It does not take much vac. pressure, I used about 10lbs according to the dial on the pump. I found the entire process very easy and would not try any other method now. I use the vacume to change the brake fluid in the entire system.

I'm guessing 15's with 60 series tires.

Robello Racing sells Mikuni carbs and parts.

I have always thought aluminum parts would be great for a z. Stuff like the hood, rear deck, front fenders, ect.... All the parts that bolt onto the car. Mostly I just realy like aluminum.