zguitar71

The 288 GTO is one of my favorite cars of all time too. I first saw it in Road and Track, I had just turned 16 and knew I would love that car for life. It was my first introduction to the beauty of flared fenders (when done right). At the time the car was amazing, now 400 HP is no big deal, not even supercar worthy, but in the mid `80's it wsa a big deal. I am also a big Dino fan too, another beautiful body. As for modern cars the Lotus Elise and Exiege are high on the list What is with the resurection of a two year old thread, not that that is wrong, just odd. Even more odd is quoting someone's thread from 2 years ago. Of course here I am posting; so, go figure.

Let me reword that. To hook up both wheels you need....... Sometimes a lack of traction is loads of fun.

What is a posi bar? To get both wheel to spin you have to modify the diff internally.

I do not think they would cost as much as coilovers, but more than a junk yard spring. Are you doing the $2006 challenge?

I have Arizona Zcar springs, 180# front and 200# rear and Illumina's and the ride is not bad at all with the shocks turned down. Turn them up to 5 and the ride is like a dump truck. The shocks determine the ride quality more than the spring rate (with in reason of course).

There are companies out there that will make any coil spring to your specs. I searched once and found some through google, I do not remember their names though. You will need to have exact measurements too like wire thickness, number of coils, free length, ect..., that you need the springs to be manufactured with. The cherokee springs are probably very long in their free length, so when they are cut to give you the right ride height they will be too stiff. The first coil off does not do much in stiffening but the rate grows exponentially as you cut more. Call or email www.arizonazcar.com , When I bought my springs Dave mentioned tring different combinations on his spring specs with his manufacturer. Mabey he can order a custome set of springs for you car through his manufacturer.

Don't drive in the rain!

I had my number and letters made locally at a sign shop. 4, 8 inch numbers and 4, 4 inch letters for $25. All together they weigh about 8 ounces, does not really make a difference on an auto crosser, and they hold to 90 MPH.

It depends on the flare. With ZG flares (the most common) you gain about 1.5-2" of outward clearence. My race tires fill out a set of zg's just right. They are 265 width (23x9x15) on a -12 offset wheel. So they stick out from the hub mounting surface 5.7" (to the outside edge of the tire). The 215's on a 0 offset wheel would be 4.2" from the hub surface. So there is a difference of 1.5" but IMO I do not think it is a good idea to run a 1.5" spacer. I have gone through all types of sinarios in my head over the last couple of years on how to run flares and fill them out with out spending lots-o-$. I figured out there is no way. To do it right, or the way I think it should be done, you need a set of custome wheels (16x8.5 -19 offset) which are going to cost around $450+ each and a set of 245/45/16 tires $150+ each and then have someone cut and weld the rear fenders and install the flares, $$$. In all the cost is way too much for me right now but one day... Until then a set of 15x7's with 225/50's will work great. If you have the $, do it, otherwise IMO you should stay with stock fenders until you have the money.

Your car came with FI. If you are giong to stay with a carb set up then go to a set of round top SU's. The Z's that came with carbs had either round top or flat top (crap) SU's.

They will not be flush with any type of fender flare. They are designed to sit inside the stock fender. Too fill up any type of flare you will need 1" of spacing or more with that size tire. IMO it is better to go with a wheel that has the right offset for flares and width too and run a wider tire like a 245.

The car will probably handel best with a 225/50/15. The extra sidewall is a good thing and the tire/wheel combo is ligher too. IMO the taller sidewall looks better on a Z too.

205/40's have too small of a sidewall. The car will handel better with a 45 or 50. 205/50/17 (the one I would run) is the correct height tire as well as what Arne said.

lower gearing in the diff.

Measure the size of the horn on the stock air cleaner box. According the Ztherapy the stock plate with the intigrated air horns gives better power than the aftermarket horns. They claim to have done test but I have not ever seen a graph or chart. I doubt the difference is really noticable though.

Man, that is too cool! I dream of a low vin `70. Congratulations!

I am originally from Memphis TN, I know what happens to the south when it snows, everything shuts down. I never drove when it snowed there. I have visited my parents in the winter when it snowed and I had my car with me with the studded tires on. I still did not go out, people do not know how to drive in the snow in the south cause it rarely happens + they all have summer tires on. I have driven my Z with summer tires in the snow and It is very scarry.

I taught myself how to feel a car's handeling dynamics on a long curvy dirt road I used to live on. I had a `90 Saab 900 and some good tires and will to make the most of the situation. The car was my old autoxer. I learned alot in the off season driving that car. In the spring the road turned from snowy to mudddy that was even slipperier than the snow so the fun continued. Now I live in town but I still go to the back roads to drive on the snow (safer than the city streets). Now I use my 2wd Toyota truck. We have about 4 month of snowon the ground in Missoula on a good year at 47 deg north. But the Mountains have 6+ months of snow to about 7000 feet then the snow last about 9+ months above that. The tallest mountains around here have had snow since late September. Something else that goes on around here is ice racing.

I just started on a 4 month stint with out my Z. It is parked in the garage until March (or later) when the roads are clear of snow. I park the Z when we get a bigenough snow to bring out the de-icer trucks. I parked it on the 4th. Now I will drive my `87 Toyota with 230,000 miles on the original clutch, crazy huh.

Yes a direct bolt on. You will have to rebuild the head (due to exposure) so you might as well put larger valves (from the late E-88 or N-42) in the head.

I have a weekend racer and street drivinf car. I think my car is about as far as you might want to go as far as a hard sus for the street. I have www.Arizonazcar.com springs (heavy duty), I got them because they are linear rate springs, I think the tokico's are progressive, linear is better for racing (I autox). I have Tokico Illumina shocks and love them. I can firm them up for the track and soften them for the street. I bought them new on Ebay for 360 for the set of 4, search Tokico Illumina on ebay and you will find them. I have urathane bushings and the aluminum/delrin bushings for the sus arms so I can adjust the camber and toe for racing. And I have sway bars from MSA. MSA is good but you can find most of their stuff cheeper else where. If you plan on running dot race tires or real slicks (like I do) I think the linear rate springs are the way to go.

With a 0 offset you can run up to a 225 with out rubbing. Most 14x7 I have seen are -9 to -12 offset (I have -2 14x7 slotted mags). With the negative offset you cannot run as wide tire as the 0 offset. The konig's are -9 offset so larger than a 205 will probably rub and the 205 will be close. Get the 15x7 rewinds, they are a 0 offset, have a better tire selection and you can run a 225/50 with out rubbing or rolling the fenders.

The turbo exaust leads to a turbo then a down pipe from the turbo. Unless you are looking at using an N42 for a turbo the exaust manifold/hearder from a ZX turbo is useless. If you are turboing then you should be o.k. with the N42. I know that people use the NA square port header on the P90 so in reverse it should work.

Well, here is some flack, but not from a purist point of view. I bet your car would handel better with a set of light weight 15"x7" wheel and some sticky 225/50/15's, compared to the same sticky tires with a lower profile on heavier 17" wheels. The extra bit of profilt on the 50 series tire can make an older Z handel better as well as the weight savings of the smaller wheel. I am not saying that 17's look bad, I think the right 17" wheel looks great (CCW, Kodiak racing wheels, Panasport C-8, ect), but the slotted mag looses it proportions (imo) when it is stretched to 17"

Those are made by American Racing and I think you can get them cheeper through a AR dealer. I think the 17 look weird but the 15's are perfect, just my opinion though. My original 14's are shiny like the MSA wheels but I sure would like to have 15's instead. http://www.americanracing.com/wheels/details.asp?wheelid=170&name=AnsenÆ%20Sprint&style=A69&desc=1-piece%20painted%20/%20machined%20alloy&section=N They also have these which you can get in custome offsets and widths.. http://www.americanracing.com/wheels/details.asp?wheelid=196&name=Silverstone%20Custom%20Offset&style=401&desc=2-piece%20painted%20center,%20polished%20rim&section=N