zguitar71

Keep the round top SU's they are better.

I have the www.arizonazcar.com clutch and flywheel. The wheel is 13.5 LBS ($370) which is not as light as some out there but I can start and not have to rev the motor in traffic but still have the benifits of the lighter mass. The clutch is nice too. If you are not racing there is no need for a fancy clutch, mine was $100 (now the are $120) and work great and the pedal perssure is better feeling due to the heavier spring plate. The oem master and slave are fine for the job too.

The parts in the ZT kit are better than all the others out there. If you want it done right go with ZT.

They look like the flares you can get from MSA.

It all depends on the year. A `70 240 with a low vin can be 5K or so if it is low on rust and mabey needs a paint job and some interior work to make it very nice thus turning it into a 10K+ car, fully restored into a 30K car. A 280 in the same shape would be much cheeper, 2500 or so. Personally I would go for a 240, in as early a year you can find, they are lighter (2300 LBS vs. 2800+LBS) and have a better performance potential and value potential. The price for the different years is like comparing an `85 911 SC price to a `73 911 Carrara RS price only with less 0's. They are 2 very different cars. BTW I race (autocross in F Prepared) a guy regularly with a white with blue writing `73 Carrara RS. The car is stunning. Unfortunatly for him I beat him every time, 240's have increadible potential as race cars. Z's rust, check the floor pans, the frame rails, around the battery tray, around the rear hatch. Fenders can be replaced but stay away from cars with rust in major structural areas of the body like the frame rails. Fortunatly parts for Z cars are very abundant and can be had from not only a wide base of years but many other Nissan cars too. Differentials from other Nissan trucks and cars fit the Z, even diffs from some Subaru's fit the Z, transmissions from a wide aray of Nissans fit as well.

One set of slotted 14x7 U.S.Indy mags with very crappy 205/60/14 cooper cobera's on them. One set of Diamond steel 15x7's with Goodyear 9x23x15 (264/36/15) R250 cantilever slicks, I can fit 2 in front of the ear strut tower brace and 2 lying flat in the rear and all my tool and a jack and go to the races with the hatch shut and passenger seat open (incase I might find a beautiful chick that need a ride). Any wider tires or larger diameter and I could not do it. I dream of a set of Volk Racing TE37 15x7's for the street with 225/50/15's, the wheels look great and only weigh 9.2 lbs, they must feel great.

A set of tripple Webers or Mikunis will make more power than the stock type injection. The after market injection like TWM's manifold and throttle bodies and some type of computer like Motec can make more power than the carbs but at a very high price. A new carb set up is less than 2 grand, the injection set up is at least 2X as much and the power gains are not that much. A properly built 3.1 motor with a set of carbs can easily have 310+ HP and be very streetable. There is a guy over at www.zcar.com and www.hybridz.org named Brian510 who has a motor like that and a web site with the specs of the motor and a dyno page and videos. The last I saw he had run a 12.4 in the 1/4 mile with his 240z stroker. Of course his motor is built by Rebello racing and all said and done with the 44m.m. Mikunis cost over 8K, but high power does not come cheep.

For 9K you could buy a very nice early 240. To change to a manual you would need the slave and master cylinder, pedal, trans, clutch, flywheel, brake pedal (the auto pedal is very wide), the hard and soft lines for the hydraulics, throughout berring and and the arm to actuate the clutch. I think it will all bolt in if not you might have some fabrication to mount the clutch pedal. I paid less than 9K for my `71 240 without rust and a great paint job and interior and a 5 speed and a hot roded 2.8 and.... Talk the guy down a lot or walk away from it and find another in good shape for less.

I run cantalevers, I do not think they ran them though, or at least they did not apear to be. Baby poop is the color refered to my Nissan 920 gold Z by some fellow authors on this web site, only in gest of course. How `bout a 2.8 with 14:1 compression a big cam and race fuel instead of a 2.4. I'm building a FP autocrosser with one right now and over the next couple of years as money come in. I have the parts and the `71 shell just no money currently to put it together though. EDIT: Oh yea, a set of Mikuni's too.

Low profile tires do appear on race cars. Back when I had the Speed Channel I use to watch the European Touring Car Series (small 4 door sedans). They are regulated (or were at that time) to an overall tire diameter, so to use large brakes they had to use large diamter wheels which meant low profile tires. I do not know the tire measurements but they were very low profile, they looked like a 245/30 or near that. My autocross tires measure 264/36/15 (9x23x15) and they are not as low profile as many other racing tires out there. F1 is regulated, if it were not they would surely run larger diameter wheels with lower profile tires. The Z suspension does not do well with very low profile tires but other suspension types out there can utilize them with out having the car skip all over the place. Regardless of the tire profile, when a tire is streached like the ones in the picture the tire will not performe right. They look silly to me but they sure love it in Japan.

If you are restoring it to exact originality I would keep the white. If being original does not matter go to the color you like.

Coyote? Not a chance. Coyoties have an unmistakeable yipy howel. We have lots of them out here in North West Montana.

If you put in one of the LSD's you h@ve refered to, the r-180 c@n h@ndel 300 HP. The open 2 pinion c@rrier in the r-180 is the week spot. The LSD c@rrier t@kes c@re of th@t. (I'm h@ving key bo@rd problems). For solo I think the clutch type LSD is better, with the torsen type both wheels must h@ve some tr@ction to oper@te right. With the clutch type one wheel could be off the ground (o tr@ction) @nd still get power to the ground. The clutch type is very strong @s long is it is @ 4 pinion type (most @ll the ones sold @re).

225/50/15.

Very nice! Good for you!

Looks like you will be driving through some snow today, be safe.

I can not believe that anyone would say there are similarities between a track and a highway for high speed driving.

Where in Montana?

That would be a blast to drive, looks a lot like parts of Montana. Here we have a hill climb called the Black Otter Hill Climb, the problem is, if you go off the course then you are going to be airborn and have have quite a fall before you stop. My buddy has pictures of cars stuck in the branches of trees. I just do not have the guts to drive that one.

I am not very fond of the 300zx and newer Z's, really I am a bit of a snob and only like the 240-280 body stlye and even then I get elitiest and truly only prefer the 240 of which I like the series I the most. I have a series II, but I do still love my car.

If the tires were not rubbing before and they are not a new tires size (larger) then I would suspect the springs are saggy. 10 years could be many life times for a set of spring or they could be like new it all depends on how the car is driven. If it is driven a lot or on bumpy roads or hard then they could be shot. What size tires do you have? I have Arizona Zcar springs (http://www.arizonazcar.com/springs.html) and really like them for the street and they are a good match for the Tokico struts. They are 200 in. lbs. rear and 180 in. lbs. for the fronts, so they are stiffer than the euro springs but not too stiff for the street (IMO). They will lower the car about 1" though.

The front of the car looked at from a 45% angle (from head on) and that is with an air dam. And the rear 1.4 on the car over the back wheels view again at a 45% angle without and air dam.

When you post a picture under "this is why i speed" you are sure to get a response that is negative. Judging from the last thread on speeding you should have know people would have opinions on the subject. If you want us to see the landscape where you live post the picture as such.

You had said in the other thread on this that the roads where you are are not only straight but did not have any place for deer or other animals to hide. I see thousands of p[laces for animals to pop out of. Plus there are houses with driveways and people and children, ect... Here in MT we have trully flat roads where there is not any houses and you can see to the horizion and there are not nearly as many hiding spots for animals but they still have a habit of poping out of no where. Eventually you will end up dead and possibably others with you.

As long as the offset of the wheel is at or near 0 you should be able to run a 225/50/15. The 215 might be a little small in diameter, your overall gearing will be higher causing increased rpm's on the highway but around town the higher gearing is nice for zipping of the line and stuff. I have 205/60/14's right now which are 23.7" in diameter and I cruse at 80 with a 3.9 rear end and an 83 5 speed at around 3750 RPM. One day when I have $ I would like to get some 15x7's (Volk TE37) with 225/50's.