madkaw

Like John said, a 30$ fix which John took care of, and she bolted up fine. Not sure where these other ideas are going, John took all the thinking out of the equation:)

How many miles on it and what shape is it in ? A lot of info missing but a rust free Z is worth a lot for the reasons you stated. Carl might jump in here and give his 2 cents, he is a better market judge. I know I might pay up to 7500$ for a rust free 1 owner even if most of the mechanicals needed some love.

If you are talking all the L motors up to 83? I'd say the bottom ends( short blocks ) are good for 250k+ with proper care. Heads are a bit different. The older the model, the shorter the life. Newer heads have the better seats and guides . Then you factor in FI engines burn cleaner which is easier on the parts. Accessories are very good as long as they are OEM

Like I mentioned before - check fitment of stub axle to DS before installing on diff. Make sure the flanges mate up correctly between the DS and stub axle with no gaps. Clean, clean and a little lube so you can pull them back apart for diff install.

So your thinking those axles will just bolt to the Subby diff?

They will snap in to your Subby diff just fine! I had to tap mine in with a dead blow hammer.

Remove the bolt and yank:) Could you do a weight comparison too?

Do an Ohm check on your wires and coil for now

Low float level is a problem. I also agree with the captain that low rpm heavy loading lends to coil or electronic issue

Carl, 3.9 ratio: 2004, 2005, 2008 3.54 ratio: 2006, 2007 CLSD: 2004, 2005, 2006 Torsen LSD: 2007, 2008 I'm running the 3.90. Pretty damn quiet. Sometimes pulling into my garage, which is steep, I hear and feel a studder and I think thats the LSD, but can't swear to it.

I guess i only remember cleaning up the old ones and throwing them in the freezer! I guess they are a 'press fit', but just a tight tolerance. The only issue I had with my axles was that the ID machined on the new axle that mates to the raised circle on the DS did not match. I coudn't get the DS to fit onto the new stub axle. After measuring I found that the new axle was under machined by .003, so I had to take them to get cut. It should be a snug fit, but make sure you really clean off your old DS in this area well. I haven't read of anyone else having this issue, so it might have slipped thru QC.

Press is for?

All in fun --WELCOME! You have surely seen me posting over there all the time. Some really good stuff over there. I just like talking Z stuff no matter what site I'm on:) Looks like an awesome build you got. You won't see any of that over here though. Any numbers for that engine(HP)?

Alright- another Indiana boy on a Indiana night

It seems I did nothing before the Internet came along:)

Oh great - looks like one of those Hybridz dudes

What oil are you running in the SUs?

Well sounds right - now drive it and see what happens. You might have had way too much advance in there . Those compression numbers aren't that high by the way.

So that's why I can't fill my lawn mower with my gas can when the little cap is on in the back. I thought the little cap was for my weed eater fillin

You need to take some time and learn about reading your plugs. Lots of pics and info on the interweb:) Does the miss happen under load or just random below 2600? You say you have other carb issues going on at the same time? Need more info?

Have a link to your build - L 28 specs Curve specs on dizzy? When does the pinging happen- rpm?

I wonder about the quality of todays rubber parts(bushings) compared to yesteryear. I mean technology seems to have advanced most products in the last 30-40 years-why not rubber. My point being that a lot of folks go straight to poly thinking that the rubber will degrade rapidly with hard driving. 'That if you want the sports car feel with quick handling you need to go poly'-is that really true? Do most of us drive our cars hard enough to warrant the need for poly or we are going to tear up rubber bushings? It would be cool to drive two identical cars that were bushing differently-one urethane and one rubber. Maybe the answer is running half and half to get a sporty ride and refinement too! I guess its all in how you use your Z or what your goal is for the car. I'd like to have it all, like todays cars, sport ride and comfort(refinement). Being mostly all urethane on my car I don't have real issue with my ride quality. Reducing road noise would be nice in order to hear my engine and exhaust better would be sweet-but as it is, it's not that bad. Finding out the TC kit is so reasonable and available, I might consider changing them out.

I'm thinking more like 3500 at 60, depending on whether Stephen has the 336 set or the 354 in his car.

You might have to search the threads on Hybridz for that. They were having a tough time coming up with those. I used the ones from my old axles without reservation. Not sure if I have ever read about a failure on one of these bolts.

Id sell it and do a lot with that money