madkaw

Not huge- but a big step from 354 to 390's You will like the additional Getty up

Nope - the same guys that have been making these diffs for years- Fuji Stephen, you might check the Subby forums too for guys selling there diffs. I got mine from someone who was parting out an STI. I wish I could afford the driveshafts myself to finish the transition. So far, nothing bad to report from doing this swap

Yes it is

5.0 liter mustangs have 60mm TBs with IAC and TPS . You could make an adapter plate as mentioned and buy these Ford TBs all day for cheap. I've seen them as cheap as 25$ new- but they are all cable action

Do you already have the 72 head? Is it a late or early head? You don't need the "big Block" , you need the head work. There is a guy on hybridz selling a e31 head ready to bolt on!! Spend your money on the head first, then the trans and gearing will liven things too. Good ignition and tune tune tune. Like said above, triples will help a lot:)

Don't you wish they(engines) stayed that pretty forever. But I rather have a nasty looking runner;)

Stock needle sizes are fine for most applications. Even with my built l24, the SM needles were too rich(as seen on a dyno). I went back with stock N-27's.

Just goes to show to keep an open mind when troubleshooting. Not sure why you want to idle at 400rpm?

Damn, thats a lot of work. I might have thrown in the towel on that, but looks like you did well to bring it back to life.

Check the fuel rate. Take the mixture screws a turn out and see if that improves anything. How do the plugs look? your desciption lends to a lean condition. Your Guru might get the adjustments right for sync, but not sure how close he can GUESS on the mixture. My first inclination would be to richen things up before I did anything else. Then I would suspect fuel pump-IF I knew my gas tank was clean and not the culprit(dirty clogging fuel lines)

What year? What fuel pump? Fuel pump been checked for flow- measured? Fuel filters been changed? " professional adjusted" by who? Ignition type? Mixture screw adjusted to how far out?

get over it David. You are portraying rebello as a rip-off, and the business is well respected in the Z community. I really don't think you understand what goes into this kind of work-it's a little more then a 'mild port job.' 100HP per liter-think about it. I guarantee you will have a hard time doing a 2JZ for less. Swapping motors is not easy and the Rebello just drops in place. If you value your time, then the 2JZ will cost way more. It will cost as much anyway you look at it. What happened to keeping the stock numbered engine?

Which head??

Floor work sucks and it's hard on the body. You probably got what you paid for- a structural fix, just not too pretty. As long as its sound, then seal it up well and good to go. I think I spent 50+ hours on some floors and charged 1000$ plus, but the floors looked pretty damn close to original. Sure you didn't make things worse by pre cutting the floor. If I was the welder I would have taken a slight exception to that.

That's kind of the sense I got - that he was exaggerating a bit or that's a 10k rpm motor;)

So is it true that the motor has nothing below 5krpm like stated in the video. I have a hard time believing that the L 6 has no torque down low unless his motor his set up with a 8krpm power band

Then there's working out the high pressure fuel pump to feed the FI. It's going to be more work then what you think- definetly not a one day job.

The best advice I can give for the engine is come up with a very specific plan and the knowledgable 'staff' here at Classic can help guide you along the way. Saying that you are going with 'all new' intake doesn't make sense. If you are staying with SU's, good choice for now by the way, then really nothing needs to be done. The head work is where all the HP is at. That doesn't mean replacing with all new parts either. Bigger valves are great and using used ones is cheap and OEM stuff is excellent. You don't need a new cam when regrinds are cheap and it keeps the proper metallurgy of OEM steel. Use a machinist that has dealt with these motors before. The proper machining and proper 'set-up' of these heads is imperative. The bottom ends are about bullet proof, so don't get crazy there. Doing your due diligence with searching will save you big$$ I AM speaking from experience. I have made dumb mistakes from not doing my homework.

Yep, but a better one. There is more rust then that-you haven't found it yet!

Non-magnetic

That's funny! Things are happening in Btown as usual

Drive it like you stole it and see what happens:)

David, Not trying to cut you down here, just putting your feet down on firma ground. They would cut you up and feed you to the lions over at Hybridz with your nubience. You will find a friendly group here that loves modified L motors. You will be suprised how much fun a well thought out performance L24 can be---- even at 160HP. Do some searching here and you won't see any square bore projects, but some good stuff. good luck

Sounds fun, but will only happen with GOBS of money and a professional builder like Rebello and you still won't see 240hp at the wheels. If you do- you will have very prestigious bragging rights. 240rwhp 240 would be a race motor. Now that I burst the bubble, shoot for 200rwhp and have some fun. I would think that 280 rods would be the trick with custom height pistons- and not dished pistons. How about introducing yourself and tell us about your engine building experience. It's obvious that you have some to learn about the L engine, and I'm not trying to be an a$$, just judging by your post. You might need to take your head to have it evaluated first before you make these plans. The early E-31 was prone to corrosion.

Have you checked for leaks ? Just one drop of raw fuel somewhere will stink up a whole garage - let alone a small cabin like the Z. After driving have you stuck your finder in the carb inlets to see if any fuel is pooling there? Then there is the tank vent box, but I would think you would smell that more with the windows are up