madkaw

Thanks for sharing. It's true that 1/2" can make a difference. A half inch can be as much as 3 degrees nose up or down and throw everything off. That's why I was hoping to document some actual degree numbers for future reference. My vibration is much more subtle than yours and occurs at high speeds, so it makes it harder to diagnose.

Numbers should be all within 15% of each other. The smoke is another issue though

Just make sure to use brass feeler gauges . Maybe .010

I'm assuming your 5 speed is the Nissan? Then the only angles that changed for you was the Techno mount- which is what I am running. The GM mount changes the angle by at least 3 degrees. Keep us updated.

How fresh?

Try smaller shoes ?

LS 1 is better

I guess I will be on my own for this one. This would benefit those of you that did the RT mount and are using the GM mount ,or have done like me and switched to the T-5 trans.

There's many methods to setting up the driveline. I'm after someone to measure their driveline angles and report in. I might eventually find someone to come over to my place to measure , but meanwhile I am hoping to compare to one of you guys.

What I am hoping to find with this thread is basically stock operating driveline angles for the S -30. Some folks just refer to them as pinion angles, but I would like to know all the angles from trans to diff. Since my car is not stock having the newer Nissan T-5, I had to alter the trans bracket to mount the trans, so offering up my pinion angles would not be stock. I am trying to come up with is how Nissan set the angles up for such a short driveshaft. I have been having vibration issues at higher speeds and I am almost positive it is the DS. I have set the angles to what SHOULD work by reading about it, but the Nissan engineers might have had something different in mind with these chassis. I guess I am asking of those who have done this before and know how to take these readings. When I did mine I took my measurements off of the U- joint caps

Not really too bad. The hardest part is getting it broke loose to pull. One of my favorite tools is a 3lb dead blow hammer. Get her loose and use the cam as a handle to pull it off. Don't forget those 2 pesky bolts at the timing cover topside

David Irwin= member here, plug and play solution Daniel Stern = actor, Cibea lens sales, harness kits

. What I was looking for was stock pinion angles of operation for the s-30. I'm looking for exact numbers from your stock machine which includes down angle of trans, angle of DS, angle of pinion. My case of vibration is at 75mph approx. I WAS running the RT mount with GM insulator, but I have gone back to stock diff mount and using thr Rt to sandwich things-so-i should be in stock location at that end. The other end is my BWT-5 which has a mount bracket modified to fit my s-30. I think my trans is hanging to low, but would like to hear what operating angle is on a stock Nissan trans in the right chassis to compare with mine. I have been reading site after site on pinion angles and realized that my earlier calculations were not right. I am revisiting this issue, but knowing what Nissan did with the short DS operating angles would help clue me in. Obviously by all the threads I have been reviewing there has been numerous issues with getting this right---probably because of our very short shaft.

That's different. The rust free Z is in Chicago and you are in CA- You might try Hybridz also. I'm 4 hours away or I would help you out.

Most folks are scared of the wiring aspects and working with relays , but it is very straight forward and relays are very simple devices. The job can be made even easier by getting relays from a JY that already have wire leads coming from them instead of wiring your own ends into the relays. Most OEM relays are very robust and can be reused many times. I am using old ZX relays now for my ECU project .

The highest value would be original paint - which you won't have after painting. The next best thing would be to have the original paint code color applied. I can't see how anyone is going to ding the value of your car based on the paint being a single stage enamel or a 2 stage urethane . I would think most buyers would want to see a 2 stage for durability and ease of repair if needed. If we were talking about repainting an original Porsche 550 Spyder then maybe "type " paint might matter. IMHO

The only reason I considered flares was for future BIGGER wheels and tires-like 275+ sizes. Right now 245/45/17 on 8.5 inch rims +04 offset. I need a shorter and skinner tire to keep the stock quarters untouched. Or coilovers and different offset. I really like my suspension and didn't want to screw up a nice thing by changing things up. Just boils down to getting greedy with the tire size and now paying the price.TTires just rub on tread at the furthest diameter of the tire over hard bumps. Most normal driving everything clears.

I don't think Daniel stern will have a harness-he only sells components and like said above-Cibea lens.

Great!!

Are you refering to Daniel Sterns schematics or the other link "alteredZ"?

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/38383-daniel-stern-lighting-headlight-upgrade.html

Do the headlight relay upgrade-you will be glad:)

Have you checked the banjo bolt screens at the carbs? If you found dirt in the fuel-it made it to the carb? Filter screen at electric pump?

As far as performance, Yes it is worth running air horns.

Charles, there are many different types of Por-15 products. The rust inhibitor stuff doesn't like UV and the color will fade, but they sell top coats in many varieties that won't fade. I just have never been a rustoleum fan.