madkaw

So I am putting stuff back together and I am curious of my spindle bolts. My right /passenger rear control arm would not pivot at the spindle bolt with the inner bushings removed. I couldn't push down it and make it pivot. The driver's side was stiff but it would rotate at the spindle. I loosened the spindle nuts on the passenger side and everything pivoted fine. It doesn't seem right that I couldn't rotate the arm--????? Could this be part of my squeaking? So now I am trying to make sure I am torquing things the right way when I put it back together. I know it's best to torque things down while the car is sitting on it's tires. I am having a hard time finding torque specs on the spindle nuts.Any help please? The other issue that might have caused squeaking is that I had a way of adjusting rear toe, and what little adjustment I might have had, might have been too much for the urethane bushings.

Sure you got everything back together right when you reinstalled the carbs. Possible air leak would cause lean mixture and idle problems. They were running great and you pulled them off to clean them? Now see, this is more info relating to the issue that is slowly leaking out.

I'm not sure that you can characterize this as an inherit problem with the early Z's . Maybe both cars had the same issue causing this. If the ends are badly damaged or not staying connected securely I would definetly consider installing new ends . Any looseness would cause this hot spot. Could have been fusible links that didn't give out quickly enough and let the wires get hot? Either way, that's pretty hot to allow them 12 gauge wires to melt the plastic

Do you have color on the plugs? How are you sure this is a starvation issue-by sound?? As far as the dampers , you could experiment with different weight oils and amounts to get them the same. Do they both fall freely and clunk? Don't be afraid to richen up the floats a little. Take the lids off and measure and then tweek them enough to know you made a considerable change. This should make a change at top end if you are running out of fuel. Sorry if I came off gruff, you are doing better with your posts.

First of all, are you sure all other aspects of your tune are right. I'm talking ignition, points or whatever, timing, valve adjustment, fuel filters. You will be chasing your tail if you don't have those things right. You might need to start from ground zero on the carbs. What are your plugs telling you. You say its bad on gas, but you are wanting to richen it up? How is the power? "It seems to run out of gas"-statements like this will get you no help on this site. That means nothing with out other info. Try and do better on your posts when asking for help, be specific, logical and scientific

I'm with the crowd that says the linkage is NOT a bad design, but these are old cars and will have issues. I stuck with rods on my Mikunis and they work flawlessly, better then I ever expected. So I am saying there is a fix for the rods, just need to find it. I'm almost sure you can buy all new ball ends and that's where I would start. I would also look at the long main rod that has the fork end hooks to the balance tube.

Just got done reading thru the thread by OZConnection on Hybridz. If you haven't yet, search small port heads over there. Not much specific recommendations for your head, but no bad news either. IMHO, that head would be definetly worth investing time and money. Not sure what your budget is, but I would consider contacting Rebello to get their ideas on how they would approach your search for more HP up top. It sounds like the smaller ports and low end is a great for the daily driver scene that likes that initial pop when pushing the accelerator. As far as machine work, as said in that thread, it's easier and less expensive to go bigger-ie. valves, ports, combustion chambers. Maybe some bigger valves, port work, unshrouding and a beefy cam you could have something to brag about.

Not much info out there on guys that have built this head. It has pretty chambers and smaller ports. You might pose this question over at hybridz. People like TonyD that has experience with the L20 motors should chime in with some specific answers to get you higher rpm power. I guess my queston would be about how much you can work the ports? Hopefully they were just cast differently with lot's of meat to be carved out. You could have it ported by an experienced builder to flow more for maybe a bigger cam. Looking at the combustion chambers you probably would do nothing, they look great. I'd say that head heas some very nice potential, and maybe fine just to bigger cam as is. I'd like to find a M47(maxima) head myself, that looks very similiar to your y70.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48410-s-30-floor-replacement-zed-finding-pics-galore.html

Please do! This is a Mikunis thread- not just my thread . Love to see some dyno stuff with the Mikunis. I am waiting to have my day at the dyno, but ironing out other issues right now.

You guys burst my bubble. I thought I had something. I have been running a heim joint style bar to connect my rear control arms- in leu of the standard brace. I'm going to dump the adjustable brace because it might be inducing loads on the bushings that are causing the squeak. The heim joints gave me ability to adjust toe, but my toe maybe the issue

Okay guys, help me out here. I took off the rear control arms and suddenly noticed the length of my inner bushing sleeve( steel sleeve) was longer then the control arm pivot. So that tells me that my sleeve is not rotating on the control arm because it is locked in place by the cap bolt. I guess I have the wrong ones ? I'm going to trim the sleeve down and put it back together. Comments?? Also, talked to a buddy who said his urethane bushings on the rear control arm( inner) is one piece where mine is two pieces. What do you guys have.

Turbocharged Subby or non?

My only thought was a cavitated oil pump after oil changes.

Fresh from the school of hard knocks, I can tell some stories. I kind of left this thread hanging as I was writing on this forum and Hybridz. As far as the suden rich issue, I have had several occasions. It was operator error of course. When doing all the jet changes make sure you get things tight. I guess when I installed my main jets after another change I neglected to get the jet snug enough and it fell off. Yes, the jet worked itself loose enough to actually fall off and into the belly of the accelerator pump. What I learned from this-GET THINGS TIGHT! But I also learned how seperate these circuits are. My car ran great at idle and cruise, but punch it hard and it ran like poo. You would have attributed this to some other system malfunction because the carbs operated so well in every aspect other then WOT. And I did trouble shoot ignition and anything else, but it was one unmetered emulsion tube sucking unlimited amount of fuel down it's pipe. Another "running rich" issue. Cylinder 5&6 are running richer then the others-quite a bit actually. All the jets are secure and float adjsutment is dead on-WTF. In fact, the needle assemblies were brand new-I just installed them not too long ago. I finally got it figured out when the carb flooded out and I limped home. I didn't get the needle assembly tight so fuel was working it's way around the threads of the assembly and dumping fuel into the carb. As far as tuning, I am still looking for perfection, but not attaining this. I do believe that these carbs like to be tuned on the rich side to run properly-especially for the transition area of tuning-going from pilot to main circuits. The engine sounds better and smoother the richer I tune. The plugs get that nice tan color with a rich setting. more to come...

Is the fenders you ordered Nissans? You made a wise choice in avoiding the fender repair. Those patch panels would have eaten a ton of time and would have been extremely hard to make look good. I'd be suspicious of the fit of aftermarket fenders

Looking good. Painted metal bumpers or fiberglass

Sounds like you running the same exact set up as I .

... ?

If your running electronic ignition- just get the plugs and gap them for later model L motor- probably .042-.044 Carbs- well you just can't hardly go wrong with some good running SU's to get things rolling and later you can unleash the power of some triples. Depends on your budget, carb savy and patience level- I wish mine was a 54 block. You also have to remember that there are 3 different versions of the e88 head. There really isn't a way to differentiate from the outside. It could make a big difference on how the motor runs. Too bad you don't have more info. You are always welcome to drop me a line

Spark plug gap is more dependent on type ignition.

Replacing the housing is not te hard work as I said earlier - it's the removing the complete induction system to get to it. I did pressure test the coolant system and best I can tell the leak is at the housing mounting point. Just as long is its not the HG!

What's your oil pressure do in those first few minutes?

No, worse case is 6 hours of work to replace it.

Blue, awesome photo. Well replacing the gasket did not help. I will double check, but I think the hose is fine. The neck on the housing had some very minor corrosion, but I believe the hose seals up. It looks like the fluis is below that. So now I guess I get a pressure tester and see if I can get it to leak with the dizzy out so I can see where it originates????????