madkaw

I don't know how many Zs you have restored, but at 19 I'm betting not a whole lot. You have started to learn that good fitting parts are hard to find. It's not just Nissan. I was surprised to find that even a 69 911 was stuck using some Tawain panels for repair. Pay the extra money and try and find rust free OEM stuff. Even stuff like the rear valence should be cut off another car to assure a good fit. Sometimes I am actually surprised how much is still available for these 40 year old machines. Improvising is the key to messing with these dinasours !

I wish I knew, but if I remember correctly it was a fine pitch like 10/32 It seems I do remember that they were the only screws like that in the whole car- PITA.

The Mikunis have an enrichment circuit but it is ONLY used to start the engine. Your not even supposed to touch the pedal while enrichments are engaged. The Mikunis also increase air to raise the idle. Once she's running I feather the throttle till she warms up

So what happened to the first cam as far as damage. That rocker does look suspect.

I would second the advice above. Drive the oil pump with a drill and watch the oil coming out that way. As far as springs, I run the complete Schneider kit, springs and all and I have no bad wear. It only takes a second or two to do that kind of damage without good oil flow. Too many disasters here lately, that sucks. Good luck

This is what I think is my issue. In fact, one oil pan gasket change I found the foil seal from a oil bottle in the bottom of my oil pan. If somehow a piece of that lodged itself somewhere, there is my partial blockage.

I believe that happens when the oil pump is dropped out and the shaft is not oriented correctly.

Not sure if it's more trouble then it's worth. I've never had that gasket come apart and 2 bolts is pretty easy. The gasket would be easy to make if damaged of get a new one. Less chance of changing timing this way. But still, that is another option:)

Update for Chris who was looking for this thread. I am still very happy with the mirrors. You don't know how much you appreciate visibility until you were without it for a while. By the way- the flares are a no go. I couldn't cut my car up.

Head gasket tiny leak after replacing.. retorque? - Nissan L6 Forum - HybridZ

Did you plastigauge all bearings?

Fumes like in fuel? Check for fuel leaks. They can be hard to find and it just takes a few drops to smell up everything. No fittings on the intake to run a PVC ?

Fumes like in fuel? Check for fuel leaks. They can be hard to find and it just takes a few drops to smell up everything. No fittings on the intake to run a PVC ?

Wow- sorry to hear that. Bearing clearances weren't good? I have about 14k miles on my engine now and still running strong. My issue must be different. I guess I will have to my engine apart to figure out why.

You did a pressure check on the head? So did you do a pressure check on the engine- while running- of the coolant system? Not sure if I agree with FelPro being the best in the biz. I would shoot for a Nismo gasket. You did check to make sure the head gasket matched holes ? The earlier the head the more chance of corrosion around the passages. Head is flat, but is the surface really clean around these passages with no pitting.

Some questions: You run a PVC system? What head and cam ? Is cam spray oiled or internal? Did you enlarge the oil feed port on the block?

What are you using for reference for this statement - FSM? From all my reading the pressure of a hot engine usually runs approximately 10psi per 1000rpm. The relief valves are just for that- relief of excessive pressure above 70psi. Not to regulate pressure above 3000rpm.

Will be watching this closely. I have been fighting high oil pressure since day one. Nothing wrong with high oil pressure until it starts pushing oil past the rear main seals. I have a constant oil leak that I have pretty much given up on until I solve the high oil pressure issue. My best guess at this time is that I have some kind of obstruction in my oil system somewhere that is driving up my pressure. I run a stock pump and have checked for obstructions as far as I can without dismantling the whole motor. Isn't the filter bypass working if the pressure does not exceed 75?

2006 wow

I think you got lucky to get it done that cheap.

And you can drift while reading a book!

That's going to make it tough to drag next door to weld . My suggestion would be to have the welder ONLY TACK weld the pipes and retest fit. Just incase the alignment is not right. I don't know what you mean by " tensioners", but it's hard to keep things on place before welding. That's why most tact weld on car .

Oops!!

10k will get you a nice Z of any vintage. Go for the best chassis condition - no rust - that's the money sucker in the end. Good advice from everyone- even Wade-

Enjoy the zzzzzz!!!!!