madkaw

I read it-and very true. Especially true for you FI guys. 35 year old connections need some loving. Best part of this type tune-up is that it is free, just a little labor.

You need to get as exact as possible to the 11.25 oclock. You will know it's off-ONLY if your sure where TDC is. You seem to be doing a lot of guessing about where things should be, and as been stated, a small adjustment means 5 degrees. I wouldn't get to hung up on getting exactly 3k rpms, just make sure your timing is not advancing anymore on the pulley and that you are maxed out. This is where a advanced timing light is handy. Do you know when you are detonating? I mean you have heard your engine pinging? If so, let your ears help you here. Since your bumped up on the CR with a stock FI, I would stay conservative on the timing. Do you run premium fuel? I have had some old head tuners use the trick of running regular gas to pinpoint detonation and then run timing slightly backed off from there. Then use premium fuel for insurance.

You will really like the T-5 precision- especially with an aftermarket shifter. It makes the driving experience much better than slopping around for gears

Glad to hear!!!

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/23392-cam-oiling-investigation.html I can't believe I almost forgot about this. The first post I did eludes to your situation. So maybe it's possible you ran it like that.

Are you sure you weren't running the spray bar on that L26? It's a simple pipe thread plug that you can buy at any hardware store. My Schneider cam has a Allen head plug. I can tell you from watching this in action, there's no way that cam would have lasted without that plug. You have lost, misplaced the plug or ran a spray bar

Doesn't autozone lend out fuel pressure gauges ? You need to find out what your pressure is. High pressure would indicate a blockage which would cause leanness and a screaming fuel pump. In my case it was a blockage in the return line of the fuel sending unit. When I got inside the tank it was very clean and the sending unit looked new, but something got sucked up in there and stayed. I was running like 75-100 psi

I know the owners brother( The Tap) My daughter graduated IU last year. I can meet your daughter somewhere in town with the paint. PM me and I will get you my cell so she can text me Steve

Just checked my reservation! I will be staying in Ashland

Just slowly force the pucks back in - just like putting on fresh pads

Should I try pulling off the calipers and letting the "pucks" (as one previous poster referred to them as) run out, and then squeeze them? That was me. Pull the calipers leaving the hoses attached. Remove the pads and use a piece of wood or something to simulate the rotor. Your shooting for getting the caliper pucks beyond their normal travel. Depress the pedal to get the pucks out on the wood. Now- Making sure you have the lid off the MC, reset the pucks slowly back in place. If you have any air. you will see a milky bubbly mix come up. I went thru all this on a 69 Mustang with the same level of frustration and 2 MCs. A friend suggested this and it worked. The right front caliper was the culprit. I guess the air was trapped and being bypassed during typical bleeding

Basic tune up IMHO would include replacing 27 year old wires.

It's funny to hear everyone has 10 of these zx blocks. When I look for one there not around or people want stupid money for them

If the fuel pump is screaming- it yelling for help! My zx turbo screamed when the fuel pressure was too high from an obstruction which will make things run lean and pop and ect....

So let me get this straight, there is no issues using the complete zx motor in a s30 car, but an early s30 engine oil pan might not work in a s130 chassis ?

Well I just learned something- thanks for sharing your Duh moment

Okay, let's clarify things- are you running vacuum advance? There is a thread on here that Walter Moore put out on all the advance curves of the dizzy s based on model number. Your numbers don't jive with mine as far as a zx dizzy. My dizzy only gives 17 mechanical degrees. So your dizzy is different or you have other issues or your vacuum advance is involved . Yes it looks like you need to re spot the dizzy. As far as cam , I have degreed my cam and have an adjustable sprocket, so I'm not going to try and define your set up by a pic. Myself, I couldn't really feel much as far as going from one hole to number 2. I was dialing in by a cam card. You could always reset the valve timing to # 1 hole at TDC to verify timing- if you are POSITIVE you know where TDC is on your crank pulley. Then it's an easy adjustment to #2

Carl, He has a 1969 911e- very stock, and he thinks all classics should be left stock. He didn't say much as far as comparison. He isn't a Porsche snob either, just didn't speak of any comparisons. He did mention the whiff of exhaust and he thought I might need a wheel balance- I've driven his car and its nice and a bit more refined, but that might be because it is stock Porsche

I was out the Midwest Z show here in Indiana this past weekend. Great show for those who missed it. For some reason ,that I won't go into detail about, I had two cars at this show. My DD winded up there and I needed to get it home. A good friend that owns a 911 came out to see the cars and so I enlisted him to get my car home. The bait was a free dinner and he would get to drive my Z! I've been wanting someone to drive it while I followed along. I always wanted that perspective to see how my car looked and hear how it sounded going down the road. It was a 17 mile windy beautiful road and my buddy didn't mind using up all my gas slamming the throttle:) It was all good though, because I really wanted to see my car in action and really hear how loud it is-and it's pretty loud!! I also noticed that I had quite a bit of negative camber on the rear tires after slotting my towers. One of these days Ill do that again but I will have a camcorder in hand.

I would add that you could probably enlarge the slot to get more travel on the adjustment for now until you can do it proper

I guess i am understanding that you used the rotor to line up your timing? You want the dizzy removed and look at the drive tang and make sure it is at 11.25 oclock at TDC. No you don't need to drain the oil. You need to get things TDC again and drop the oil pump and reinstall until the tang is in correctly. There is a dot on the shaft that lines up with a mark on the oil pump to helpn you initially line things up. Then it's kind of trial and error until you reach the 11.25 position. 40 degrees advance is a lot and you might not hear the detonation over them triples;) So your initial timing is sitting at 23 degrees right now, which she might not want to start easy on them hot days. I would want to get back to knowing where your at and being adjustable. as far as specs-not sure there is specs for that combo, it's what makes it run good. FYI, my car didn't put out anymore HP at 38 compared to 34 on the dyno. Hope this helps

I just wanted to post up a thankyou to the IndyZ car club for putting on a great show this weekend. I know it takes a lot of time an effort to organize something this big, but you guys pulled it off great. I was impressed by the amount of sponsorship you guys attained, I mean giving away prizes for hours it seemed, everyone had to appreciate that.

Didn't mean to sound like an a$$, but I still stand by my point that to ask us to help diagnose an issue that could diectly related to a simple tune up(Wires), which are 30$, just doesn't make sense. You are NOT "past the point of a basic tune up". As pointed out-during heavy loading the spark has to be strong and good wires definetly could be the culprit, so I would replace your 27 year old stuff. The coil swap was a good idea, and you might be on to something. I have had coils going bad on newer cars and the car would buck during heavy loading like the trans was going bad, but it would fine everywhere else. Searching , you might find the ohm reading for a stock coil and check that against yours. Lean condition also fits the your description.

Throwing money at it? It's called a tune up. You cannot expect to troubleshoot a problem when the basics( plug wires ) are 27 years old. Most of the time troubleshooting is the process of elimination- so eliminate the basics, give it a tune up.

I just try to buy chemicals there - oil , degreasers , etc and get my 20% discount. Gaskets are cheap and they usually can get Felpro. Don't buy Dorman hardware, all their steel rusts quickly. If I can wait, I order from Rock Auto which gives you a choice of manufacturers . Nissan stuff is the best for parts that take lots of abuse.