madkaw

How do you know you are close on timing? You can't check static at 1800rpm, so what advance to you show at your present idle? Sounds like your effort needs to be somewhere other then carbs at this point. There was just a 7 page thread with similar issues and it turned out to be timing. The fact that you know little about this engine, someone could have clocked the dizzy drive wrong.

Not a real definitive source of the issue, but it sure sounds like timing way advanced maybe? There's another thread going on that has haunting similarities. Glad you get to move on!!

Have you tried to alter timing-retard it? Does it fire up easy everytime? It seems that the timing might be way advanced. Linkage-what have you done to eliminate that possibility? What's the history on the engine? Have you ever heard it run right, or did you buy this and started out this way? What year car and engine? What distributor are you running? I have no answers, just questions:)

Sounds like Blue is a true "petrol head"! Also sounds like something I would do. I travel myself and sit in a hotel half the week and wish someone wanted some wrench help near by to get me out of the hotel. It doesn't suprise me that Phillip would do this as much as he takes time to offer his insightful posts on here. The pictures and detail of his write ups shows what a Motörhead and enthusiast he is. Good story and thanks for sharing

Any aftermarket shifter made for the T-5 trans should work. I guess I don't understand the "scarce" statement. The shifter is BW, not Nissan. So any shifter that will bolt up will work. As far as the boot, that's another story. I used the ZX boot because it's bigger, heavier, and seals nice. I believe I used the inner and outer both to keep things quiet. I'm using a Pro-Tower shifter with adjustable stops and it is sweet-90$ off of craigslist new in the box! I still have the original shifter in perfect condition if anyone needs one!

I read it-and very true. Especially true for you FI guys. 35 year old connections need some loving. Best part of this type tune-up is that it is free, just a little labor.

You need to get as exact as possible to the 11.25 oclock. You will know it's off-ONLY if your sure where TDC is. You seem to be doing a lot of guessing about where things should be, and as been stated, a small adjustment means 5 degrees. I wouldn't get to hung up on getting exactly 3k rpms, just make sure your timing is not advancing anymore on the pulley and that you are maxed out. This is where a advanced timing light is handy. Do you know when you are detonating? I mean you have heard your engine pinging? If so, let your ears help you here. Since your bumped up on the CR with a stock FI, I would stay conservative on the timing. Do you run premium fuel? I have had some old head tuners use the trick of running regular gas to pinpoint detonation and then run timing slightly backed off from there. Then use premium fuel for insurance.

You will really like the T-5 precision- especially with an aftermarket shifter. It makes the driving experience much better than slopping around for gears

Glad to hear!!!

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/23392-cam-oiling-investigation.html I can't believe I almost forgot about this. The first post I did eludes to your situation. So maybe it's possible you ran it like that.

Are you sure you weren't running the spray bar on that L26? It's a simple pipe thread plug that you can buy at any hardware store. My Schneider cam has a Allen head plug. I can tell you from watching this in action, there's no way that cam would have lasted without that plug. You have lost, misplaced the plug or ran a spray bar

Doesn't autozone lend out fuel pressure gauges ? You need to find out what your pressure is. High pressure would indicate a blockage which would cause leanness and a screaming fuel pump. In my case it was a blockage in the return line of the fuel sending unit. When I got inside the tank it was very clean and the sending unit looked new, but something got sucked up in there and stayed. I was running like 75-100 psi

I know the owners brother( The Tap) My daughter graduated IU last year. I can meet your daughter somewhere in town with the paint. PM me and I will get you my cell so she can text me Steve

Just checked my reservation! I will be staying in Ashland

Just slowly force the pucks back in - just like putting on fresh pads

Should I try pulling off the calipers and letting the "pucks" (as one previous poster referred to them as) run out, and then squeeze them? That was me. Pull the calipers leaving the hoses attached. Remove the pads and use a piece of wood or something to simulate the rotor. Your shooting for getting the caliper pucks beyond their normal travel. Depress the pedal to get the pucks out on the wood. Now- Making sure you have the lid off the MC, reset the pucks slowly back in place. If you have any air. you will see a milky bubbly mix come up. I went thru all this on a 69 Mustang with the same level of frustration and 2 MCs. A friend suggested this and it worked. The right front caliper was the culprit. I guess the air was trapped and being bypassed during typical bleeding

Basic tune up IMHO would include replacing 27 year old wires.

It's funny to hear everyone has 10 of these zx blocks. When I look for one there not around or people want stupid money for them

If the fuel pump is screaming- it yelling for help! My zx turbo screamed when the fuel pressure was too high from an obstruction which will make things run lean and pop and ect....

So let me get this straight, there is no issues using the complete zx motor in a s30 car, but an early s30 engine oil pan might not work in a s130 chassis ?

Well I just learned something- thanks for sharing your Duh moment

Okay, let's clarify things- are you running vacuum advance? There is a thread on here that Walter Moore put out on all the advance curves of the dizzy s based on model number. Your numbers don't jive with mine as far as a zx dizzy. My dizzy only gives 17 mechanical degrees. So your dizzy is different or you have other issues or your vacuum advance is involved . Yes it looks like you need to re spot the dizzy. As far as cam , I have degreed my cam and have an adjustable sprocket, so I'm not going to try and define your set up by a pic. Myself, I couldn't really feel much as far as going from one hole to number 2. I was dialing in by a cam card. You could always reset the valve timing to # 1 hole at TDC to verify timing- if you are POSITIVE you know where TDC is on your crank pulley. Then it's an easy adjustment to #2

Carl, He has a 1969 911e- very stock, and he thinks all classics should be left stock. He didn't say much as far as comparison. He isn't a Porsche snob either, just didn't speak of any comparisons. He did mention the whiff of exhaust and he thought I might need a wheel balance- I've driven his car and its nice and a bit more refined, but that might be because it is stock Porsche

I was out the Midwest Z show here in Indiana this past weekend. Great show for those who missed it. For some reason ,that I won't go into detail about, I had two cars at this show. My DD winded up there and I needed to get it home. A good friend that owns a 911 came out to see the cars and so I enlisted him to get my car home. The bait was a free dinner and he would get to drive my Z! I've been wanting someone to drive it while I followed along. I always wanted that perspective to see how my car looked and hear how it sounded going down the road. It was a 17 mile windy beautiful road and my buddy didn't mind using up all my gas slamming the throttle:) It was all good though, because I really wanted to see my car in action and really hear how loud it is-and it's pretty loud!! I also noticed that I had quite a bit of negative camber on the rear tires after slotting my towers. One of these days Ill do that again but I will have a camcorder in hand.

I would add that you could probably enlarge the slot to get more travel on the adjustment for now until you can do it proper