madkaw

Maybe shoot for just fixing the sway bar section and see how that works out. If you want to learn how to do this stuff, then get the tools and go to town. You can't make that small area much worse then it is. Get a good 115 mig welder and a good grinder and sawzall and do it. If you plan on paying someone to do all your work plan on $$$$ Then it might be time to consider a better chassis.

+10 will clear stock spring Perch on a 240 I'm running 17X8.5 245's tires They will touch the perch on the front.

With Mikuni triples you could BLIP the throttle like a motorcycle engine!

I'm going too

Welcome to classic z ! When trying to get help from the site you need to be more specific with your information. It's obvious your car is NOT stock, so we would only be guessing about your. Punctuation is always a plus if you really want people to read and understand what you are saying. Pictures sometimes are better

My apology-yes 903 blue

I guess I should have specified this is 1971 904 blue

I have a half pint of enamel touch paint with hardener and free if you pay shipping- I don't need it. PM me

I saw a yellow z that had custom bodywork done parked on the town square.

Okay guys - still not following the rules of the game. Please put the location of the Z Spyed in the TITLE, that way it is easy to scan through the pages to find one in your area.

What I like about your set up is down the road if I want displacement I can just call rebello and get a stroker crank and rods and drop it in.

Thought you might have measured just for assurance and to make sure you used the right HG

Guy, Do you recall the deck height on that motor?

If I went this route I would step up to forged -rev rev

I just re read the thread -9.2 to 1 Personally I would have done 10.2 to 1 with that cam, but again thanks for sharing. I just received a L28 bare block and it makes me think about it!

I was playing with the engine calculator and it looked like the chamber size had to be pretty small to get the CR up. What size chambers are you running. I looked at 40cc chambers and it put me over 10CR. Now a lightened flywheel, triples and a large cam might really make a rev machine. Congrats on making this work. There's a lot of emphasis on bigger is better, but sometimes it's not about that at all.

Dyno numbers?

Man this is just like the deal I had with my Mustang-yes it was frustrating!! I guess it's possible that your MC was going bad and you replaced it with another bad one or the WRONG one. The MC rod should be checked for sure. With the wrong mating of MC and rod you would be coming up short on travel on the valve. I would be a bit suspicious of an Autozone MC. If you take it off-take it apart and look at it. Someone could have put a rubber on backwards. Check the general condition of the bore for pitting. Don't underestimate the ability of air to be trapped. Like I stated before, I had to remove the caliper off spindle and let the pucks come out past their normal travel on some wood. When returning the pucks I watched the air come back into the MC-bingo!

Nate, funny you posted this at this exact moment since I am in Orlando on vacation! I have a buddy who lives down here and I can ask him about body shops. Enjoy the nice weather. You get that beast running?

Don't give up on the triples yet- I doubt that had much to do with your issue anyway. Then again, can't go wrong with SUs

So opening up the runners put you on the ragged edge of sealing with the O- rings? Nice job finding that

I agree, your 280zx electronic ignition should be plenty good for everything. I'd say you need to work your SU operation and all other aspects of tune before spending more money on a different electronic ignition

Jeessshhh Wade, Can't believe there's nothing to learn here for you. I'm quite sure if you were there you would straighten out Chris with your master mechanic knowledge. I kind of like threads like this that make you think 'outside the box'. I think we have all experienced some kind of anomaly when it comes to mechanical issues. Yes, there are the basics, but Murphy's law is always hard at work. I remember chasing a spongy brake in a Mustang for weeks. It was frustrating beyond belief-I mean it's just a hydraulic system. In the end I reversed bled a front caliper that pushed the air BACK to the MC. Never experienced this before, and never again. By all regular methods I couldn't get rid of the air. In the end, it might turn out to be a basic element that Chris missed, or he has 2 things going on at once. This happens when you change several things at once. I think maybe you(WADE) are thinking you might not get the CDS award. If it's that frustrating for you-how bad do you think it is for Chris. Tune out if it bothers you that bad.

...or dirt in the tank being sucked up and clogging your sending unit

What also bugs me is your comparison of engine power to an inline 4 Honda motor. Not sure what your past experience with Z cars are, but these cars are very torque and it sounds like you have none. That coupled to having to run with the choke says to me that your float levels are lean. You should probably try to eliminate head gasket issues by getting a coolant tester or some kind of tester. Have you also experimented with timing changes? Try advancing without your vacuum advance installed to see how it effects power