madkaw

I guess i am understanding that you used the rotor to line up your timing? You want the dizzy removed and look at the drive tang and make sure it is at 11.25 oclock at TDC. No you don't need to drain the oil. You need to get things TDC again and drop the oil pump and reinstall until the tang is in correctly. There is a dot on the shaft that lines up with a mark on the oil pump to helpn you initially line things up. Then it's kind of trial and error until you reach the 11.25 position. 40 degrees advance is a lot and you might not hear the detonation over them triples;) So your initial timing is sitting at 23 degrees right now, which she might not want to start easy on them hot days. I would want to get back to knowing where your at and being adjustable. as far as specs-not sure there is specs for that combo, it's what makes it run good. FYI, my car didn't put out anymore HP at 38 compared to 34 on the dyno. Hope this helps

I just wanted to post up a thankyou to the IndyZ car club for putting on a great show this weekend. I know it takes a lot of time an effort to organize something this big, but you guys pulled it off great. I was impressed by the amount of sponsorship you guys attained, I mean giving away prizes for hours it seemed, everyone had to appreciate that.

Didn't mean to sound like an a$$, but I still stand by my point that to ask us to help diagnose an issue that could diectly related to a simple tune up(Wires), which are 30$, just doesn't make sense. You are NOT "past the point of a basic tune up". As pointed out-during heavy loading the spark has to be strong and good wires definetly could be the culprit, so I would replace your 27 year old stuff. The coil swap was a good idea, and you might be on to something. I have had coils going bad on newer cars and the car would buck during heavy loading like the trans was going bad, but it would fine everywhere else. Searching , you might find the ohm reading for a stock coil and check that against yours. Lean condition also fits the your description.

Throwing money at it? It's called a tune up. You cannot expect to troubleshoot a problem when the basics( plug wires ) are 27 years old. Most of the time troubleshooting is the process of elimination- so eliminate the basics, give it a tune up.

I just try to buy chemicals there - oil , degreasers , etc and get my 20% discount. Gaskets are cheap and they usually can get Felpro. Don't buy Dorman hardware, all their steel rusts quickly. If I can wait, I order from Rock Auto which gives you a choice of manufacturers . Nissan stuff is the best for parts that take lots of abuse.

Maybe shoot for just fixing the sway bar section and see how that works out. If you want to learn how to do this stuff, then get the tools and go to town. You can't make that small area much worse then it is. Get a good 115 mig welder and a good grinder and sawzall and do it. If you plan on paying someone to do all your work plan on $$$$ Then it might be time to consider a better chassis.

+10 will clear stock spring Perch on a 240 I'm running 17X8.5 245's tires They will touch the perch on the front.

With Mikuni triples you could BLIP the throttle like a motorcycle engine!

I'm going too

Welcome to classic z ! When trying to get help from the site you need to be more specific with your information. It's obvious your car is NOT stock, so we would only be guessing about your. Punctuation is always a plus if you really want people to read and understand what you are saying. Pictures sometimes are better

My apology-yes 903 blue

I guess I should have specified this is 1971 904 blue

I have a half pint of enamel touch paint with hardener and free if you pay shipping- I don't need it. PM me

I saw a yellow z that had custom bodywork done parked on the town square.

Okay guys - still not following the rules of the game. Please put the location of the Z Spyed in the TITLE, that way it is easy to scan through the pages to find one in your area.

What I like about your set up is down the road if I want displacement I can just call rebello and get a stroker crank and rods and drop it in.

Thought you might have measured just for assurance and to make sure you used the right HG

Guy, Do you recall the deck height on that motor?

If I went this route I would step up to forged -rev rev

I just re read the thread -9.2 to 1 Personally I would have done 10.2 to 1 with that cam, but again thanks for sharing. I just received a L28 bare block and it makes me think about it!

I was playing with the engine calculator and it looked like the chamber size had to be pretty small to get the CR up. What size chambers are you running. I looked at 40cc chambers and it put me over 10CR. Now a lightened flywheel, triples and a large cam might really make a rev machine. Congrats on making this work. There's a lot of emphasis on bigger is better, but sometimes it's not about that at all.

Dyno numbers?

Man this is just like the deal I had with my Mustang-yes it was frustrating!! I guess it's possible that your MC was going bad and you replaced it with another bad one or the WRONG one. The MC rod should be checked for sure. With the wrong mating of MC and rod you would be coming up short on travel on the valve. I would be a bit suspicious of an Autozone MC. If you take it off-take it apart and look at it. Someone could have put a rubber on backwards. Check the general condition of the bore for pitting. Don't underestimate the ability of air to be trapped. Like I stated before, I had to remove the caliper off spindle and let the pucks come out past their normal travel on some wood. When returning the pucks I watched the air come back into the MC-bingo!

Nate, funny you posted this at this exact moment since I am in Orlando on vacation! I have a buddy who lives down here and I can ask him about body shops. Enjoy the nice weather. You get that beast running?

Don't give up on the triples yet- I doubt that had much to do with your issue anyway. Then again, can't go wrong with SUs