madkaw

The other thing that would have jumped out at me was the rain storm. I would have suspected moisture under the dizzy cap would have caused the misfires .

When I said dirty tank, I picture you stirring up crap during fill up and this crap initially getting sucked into the sending unit. After sitting for a period of time the crap falls out and things are good again. Have you peeked inside your tank.

Haven't watched the video but the first thing that pops in my mind is dirty fuel tank

Hmmm, that is weird

Not a lot of help to find here on the L28 turbos. Someone just put a lot of work into an engine timeline which was nice since it laid out the different year heads and blocks. The easiest way is to find a complete 28ET motor because you will have all the parts( exhaust , oil pan, plumbing ), or just find the best deals on stuff and throw any motor together and pressurize it, just keep the CR down a bit. As far as LSD, do the STI swap and don't look back. OEM Subaru quality with choice of ratios and made in this century and plenty good for most moderate HP goals .

Chris, You kind of threw us a curve ball. You never mentioned that you removed the oil pump during engine swaps- which I wouldn't have assumed since its not necessary. Since you said the motor ran great before hand we were all thinking of things you might have touched, but I didn't figure on the oil pump. Anyway, it made for interesting reading

How do you know you are close on timing? You can't check static at 1800rpm, so what advance to you show at your present idle? Sounds like your effort needs to be somewhere other then carbs at this point. There was just a 7 page thread with similar issues and it turned out to be timing. The fact that you know little about this engine, someone could have clocked the dizzy drive wrong.

Not a real definitive source of the issue, but it sure sounds like timing way advanced maybe? There's another thread going on that has haunting similarities. Glad you get to move on!!

Have you tried to alter timing-retard it? Does it fire up easy everytime? It seems that the timing might be way advanced. Linkage-what have you done to eliminate that possibility? What's the history on the engine? Have you ever heard it run right, or did you buy this and started out this way? What year car and engine? What distributor are you running? I have no answers, just questions:)

Sounds like Blue is a true "petrol head"! Also sounds like something I would do. I travel myself and sit in a hotel half the week and wish someone wanted some wrench help near by to get me out of the hotel. It doesn't suprise me that Phillip would do this as much as he takes time to offer his insightful posts on here. The pictures and detail of his write ups shows what a Motörhead and enthusiast he is. Good story and thanks for sharing

Any aftermarket shifter made for the T-5 trans should work. I guess I don't understand the "scarce" statement. The shifter is BW, not Nissan. So any shifter that will bolt up will work. As far as the boot, that's another story. I used the ZX boot because it's bigger, heavier, and seals nice. I believe I used the inner and outer both to keep things quiet. I'm using a Pro-Tower shifter with adjustable stops and it is sweet-90$ off of craigslist new in the box! I still have the original shifter in perfect condition if anyone needs one!

I read it-and very true. Especially true for you FI guys. 35 year old connections need some loving. Best part of this type tune-up is that it is free, just a little labor.

You need to get as exact as possible to the 11.25 oclock. You will know it's off-ONLY if your sure where TDC is. You seem to be doing a lot of guessing about where things should be, and as been stated, a small adjustment means 5 degrees. I wouldn't get to hung up on getting exactly 3k rpms, just make sure your timing is not advancing anymore on the pulley and that you are maxed out. This is where a advanced timing light is handy. Do you know when you are detonating? I mean you have heard your engine pinging? If so, let your ears help you here. Since your bumped up on the CR with a stock FI, I would stay conservative on the timing. Do you run premium fuel? I have had some old head tuners use the trick of running regular gas to pinpoint detonation and then run timing slightly backed off from there. Then use premium fuel for insurance.

You will really like the T-5 precision- especially with an aftermarket shifter. It makes the driving experience much better than slopping around for gears

Glad to hear!!!

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/23392-cam-oiling-investigation.html I can't believe I almost forgot about this. The first post I did eludes to your situation. So maybe it's possible you ran it like that.

Are you sure you weren't running the spray bar on that L26? It's a simple pipe thread plug that you can buy at any hardware store. My Schneider cam has a Allen head plug. I can tell you from watching this in action, there's no way that cam would have lasted without that plug. You have lost, misplaced the plug or ran a spray bar

Doesn't autozone lend out fuel pressure gauges ? You need to find out what your pressure is. High pressure would indicate a blockage which would cause leanness and a screaming fuel pump. In my case it was a blockage in the return line of the fuel sending unit. When I got inside the tank it was very clean and the sending unit looked new, but something got sucked up in there and stayed. I was running like 75-100 psi

I know the owners brother( The Tap) My daughter graduated IU last year. I can meet your daughter somewhere in town with the paint. PM me and I will get you my cell so she can text me Steve

Just checked my reservation! I will be staying in Ashland

Just slowly force the pucks back in - just like putting on fresh pads

Should I try pulling off the calipers and letting the "pucks" (as one previous poster referred to them as) run out, and then squeeze them? That was me. Pull the calipers leaving the hoses attached. Remove the pads and use a piece of wood or something to simulate the rotor. Your shooting for getting the caliper pucks beyond their normal travel. Depress the pedal to get the pucks out on the wood. Now- Making sure you have the lid off the MC, reset the pucks slowly back in place. If you have any air. you will see a milky bubbly mix come up. I went thru all this on a 69 Mustang with the same level of frustration and 2 MCs. A friend suggested this and it worked. The right front caliper was the culprit. I guess the air was trapped and being bypassed during typical bleeding

Basic tune up IMHO would include replacing 27 year old wires.

It's funny to hear everyone has 10 of these zx blocks. When I look for one there not around or people want stupid money for them

If the fuel pump is screaming- it yelling for help! My zx turbo screamed when the fuel pressure was too high from an obstruction which will make things run lean and pop and ect....