madkaw

At the pointer

I would not recommend trying to pull or especially reinstall the cover with the oil pump shaft in place. Put the engine TDC and remove pump and shaft. Don't rotate engine. Don't forget the ALL the bolts that attach the cover. Try and work your gaskets free with a putty knife so they don't tear. Reinstall oil pump AFTER assembly to make sure the shaft mates properly with crank gear. Recheck timing according to manual

Your timing issue is what bugs me. You seem to be all over the place. How did you find TDC? Have you checked your mechanical advance to see if it's in good shape? I would run without vacuum advance for now. If run about 12 degrees advance at idle-750rpm

Mikuni 40phh intake runners - Fuel Delivery - HybridZ

Everybody wants the CDS award!

Chris, Have you put a straight edge across the EXHAUST manifold flange?

Chris probably walked away for a while. It sucks when you get this frustrated-especially from a freak issue like this. You get to wonder about your luck. It's not like fighting a rusty bolt, which is understandably frustrating. Hopefully he walked away long enough to get some fresh eyes on the situation .

So you know-good advice above. The diff will pretty much hang off the moustache bar after disconnecting the front of the diff- even without the nuts on there. The r180 is closer to 65lbs - so you can man handle it if your careful. Or balance it on a jack to lower it down.

Sounds like you need to recheck your floats

How do you know if and where the intake is leaking?

I have quite the collection of jets anymore, so if you want to try something different, I can lend you some before you buy

Bad float adjustment? Why did you adjust them?

Top off the float chamber?

Rubber o rings still there between the carbs and manifold

Highest vacuum demands are when- Idling, decelerating , cruise

Gasket match what? Manifold to head?

Took them apart ? Or just separated them from the intake?

Check out the 71 in Bloomington Indiana That's the one I worked on

Give me a breakLOL Datsun : Z-Series White in Datsun | eBay Motors

On hard RIGHT turns the left tire rubs? On my car, the passenger rear tire rubs the wheel well worse then the driver's side. We talked the other day, I see you learned to post pics-your car looks great.

You might need to step over to Hybridz and do some searching over there. Any motor can be turbocharged. The effectiveness of the the turbo application will be with your engine management. I'm considering turbo charging my L24. Cooling issues have been the heads and lead to detonation. I would recommend spending money and effort in an aftermarket ECU, air to air cooler, modern turbo charger and accessories; and less effort and money on oversizing or stroking a L block.

I wouldn't get hung up on L28 block numbers and which is better. The n42 is supposed to have the highest nickel content - thus stronger. Just make sure a machinist checks it out

He's already eliminated that.

I remeber Chris's post about his header-looked almost homemade. I imagine flange thickness might not be the same as the stock manifold. I have seen stepped washers to correct this, but that might be the problem here. I can only see a larger vacuum leak causing such a surge.

Okay-here's a thought. You say you changed exhaust.Now you know it's imperative that the the flange thickness on the intake and exhaust are equal. If your 'new' exhaust for some reason has a thicker flange--- then your intake is not getting torqued down properly and causing major vacuum leaks along the bottom.