madkaw

If you buy a cheap one you will regret it. The rotary tools come in two versions-junk and quality with about a 100.00 difference at least. Don't buy a harbor freight one and think you will be happy. Cheap ones vibrate badly and put your hand to sleep or in pain. The heavier the better. Eye protection is manditory with those wire brushes!!!!!!!!!!!!! Looking good.

Hell, you stole the seats for 460$

Did you find this thread on Hybridz Japanese N/A L6 400hp, how they do it, pictures I've found, etc. Not 56k safe - Non Tech Board - HybridZ

Actually they are convex where the nut goes- concave towards the manifold

I just sold some with the covers. They are just flimsy pieces of cardboard-nothing fancy at all.

I just redid all my emblems using my plastic model enamel paints. The white was just a gloss white, but it looked great.

I'm tired just reading this thread-good work

Just test the door for up and down play by lifting it at the end- worn hinges will be evident

I think the game changer as far as paint schemes is the trim . Blacking out the trim opens colors and schemes to a more modern look IMHO

I have the Lincoln 135 and it's excellent . Haven't had any issues. Get a welder set up for gas. You can weld up to .250 with the 135 if you use heavier wire and take several passes. A 220 is more versatile , but the hobbyist will get it done with the 135. Lincoln welders are everywhere and so are parts

I also used Quiet Car on my ride. It's hard to give an accurate rating without driving before and after in a short period of time. Folks have said my car has a refined ride- that's partially because of the noise reduction I bet. I bought someones leftovers so I got off cheap- 40$

I think the 71 that I am getting ready to sell will compare with this one. Refreshed, but not restored, but ready to drive anywhere. My car will have refreshed suspension-which this seller didn't do, which would make the ride much different. On the other hand, I haven't rebuilt the motor, but at 85k miles , it doesn't need it. The bumpers not original, but very nice. Something going on with the rear bumper though-look at the right rear. I don't like those wheels at all-ugly. The exhaust does not look good either. Overall a nice car.

So you use stock springs and grind down the insulator. I guess you grind it down at an angle or cone shape so you retain the perch for the spring? This allows the top to swing in more?

The timeline gives some basic numbers, but not nearly as accurate as Carls description. I'm pretty sure my 9/71 has the early small chambers. It might be the last month for that design.

Gnose, Any pics on the modification of the insulator. Slotting alone only netted me about 1 degree- another degree and my 245's might clear!!!!!!

Sure it's not a grounding issue with the light assembly?

Using stock springs will only allow about 3/4. Negative camber - thats all the more room there is unless you can bring out the bottom . The stock control arms are actually very strong, so dont under estimate the strength needed of the control arms. Like said before - Hybridz is a good source for info.

Using plug welds was a matter of using what i had as far as equipment. The plug weld is effective for the fact it welds in the center of the metal overlap. The cleco's are fantastic because they CHEAP and a much easier way to hold panels without having to leave marks or gouges from welding clamps. I never looked back either-I am also from the aircraft industry.

Using plug welds was a matter of using what i had as far as equipment. The plug weld is effective for the fact it welds in the center of the metal overlap. The cleco's are fantastic because they CHEAP and a much easier way to hold panels without having to leave marks or gouges from welding clamps. I never looked back either-I am also from the aircraft industry.

Not only U-joints, you should check the condition of the spline and ball bearings. probably not using the proper terminology, but anyway, ... put the halfshaft body in a vise securely, then extend the inner shaft out and try and work it up and down. There should be no play, if there is, you need to find some better shafts. Someone might have a good method for checking U-jonts off the car.

That's funny- hopefully she will warm up to the Z. Most women still enjoy all the ATTENTION. It gets. Glad to hear you got a good deal

Maybe had a r200 in there?

Thanks JC . The noise is a cross between whine and rubbing- hard to describe- but increases with speed. I am changing the diff as we speak to eliminate that.

Maybe you should nick name your car Patches- Nice work

Geezer said it all. If you pay to have it fixed and it needs replaced- find a used one and bring it to the body guy.