madkaw
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Everything posted by madkaw
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2013 Midwest Z Heritage, June 14-15, Nashville, INDIANA
madkaw replied to z74z90's topic in United States
I'd like to add that this is some beautiful country and the roads are great. 17 miles away is Bloomington(my home town) that is home to Indiana University, and with a university town there is lot's of things to see and do. Great eateries and a great nite-life, hope we have a great showing. -
Norm, you shouldn't have gone and did that. Now your life will be turned upside down. The obsession will start and eat away at you every minute of the day. You will be getting up in the middle of the night and going to the garage just so you can get something done on that car. You will become the rust police searching in every crevace of that body to erraticate the villian. Z parts will fill your house and your friends will call you a hoarder. All your relationships will have to overcome the Z obstacle. Your credit rating will go in the crapper by maxing out your credit cards on go fast parts. Your life is doomed by the dizease. Welcome to the club!
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accurate to my limited knowledge:)
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I will say that the graph seems pretty accurate -well done. Looking at the heads again, you do show progressions in the e-88 head. Not sure how you can show the e-88 and e-31 sharing the same combustion chamber for a short period of time.
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It would be nice to see more precise info regarding the cylinder heads. The main issue would be the E-88 generation heads, since there was at least 3 versions. Example is my 9/71 E-88 had the smaller chamber size of of the E-31. Why? For folks looking for a certain CC chamber size for their build.
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The Lime Green Machine Restoration Thread - 1972 240Z
madkaw replied to Hardway's topic in Open Discussions
If you buy a cheap one you will regret it. The rotary tools come in two versions-junk and quality with about a 100.00 difference at least. Don't buy a harbor freight one and think you will be happy. Cheap ones vibrate badly and put your hand to sleep or in pain. The heavier the better. Eye protection is manditory with those wire brushes!!!!!!!!!!!!! Looking good. -
Hell, you stole the seats for 460$
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Did you find this thread on Hybridz Japanese N/A L6 400hp, how they do it, pictures I've found, etc. Not 56k safe - Non Tech Board - HybridZ
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Actually they are convex where the nut goes- concave towards the manifold
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I just sold some with the covers. They are just flimsy pieces of cardboard-nothing fancy at all.
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I just redid all my emblems using my plastic model enamel paints. The white was just a gloss white, but it looked great.
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240z rebuild / restoration right down to the shell
madkaw replied to grannyknot's topic in Build Threads
I'm tired just reading this thread-good work -
Just test the door for up and down play by lifting it at the end- worn hinges will be evident
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I think the game changer as far as paint schemes is the trim . Blacking out the trim opens colors and schemes to a more modern look IMHO
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I have the Lincoln 135 and it's excellent . Haven't had any issues. Get a welder set up for gas. You can weld up to .250 with the 135 if you use heavier wire and take several passes. A 220 is more versatile , but the hobbyist will get it done with the 135. Lincoln welders are everywhere and so are parts
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I also used Quiet Car on my ride. It's hard to give an accurate rating without driving before and after in a short period of time. Folks have said my car has a refined ride- that's partially because of the noise reduction I bet. I bought someones leftovers so I got off cheap- 40$
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I think the 71 that I am getting ready to sell will compare with this one. Refreshed, but not restored, but ready to drive anywhere. My car will have refreshed suspension-which this seller didn't do, which would make the ride much different. On the other hand, I haven't rebuilt the motor, but at 85k miles , it doesn't need it. The bumpers not original, but very nice. Something going on with the rear bumper though-look at the right rear. I don't like those wheels at all-ugly. The exhaust does not look good either. Overall a nice car.
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Finally installed rear camber adjustable bushings
madkaw replied to SledZ's topic in Suspension & Steering
So you use stock springs and grind down the insulator. I guess you grind it down at an angle or cone shape so you retain the perch for the spring? This allows the top to swing in more? -
The timeline gives some basic numbers, but not nearly as accurate as Carls description. I'm pretty sure my 9/71 has the early small chambers. It might be the last month for that design.
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Finally installed rear camber adjustable bushings
madkaw replied to SledZ's topic in Suspension & Steering
Gnose, Any pics on the modification of the insulator. Slotting alone only netted me about 1 degree- another degree and my 245's might clear!!!!!! -
Sure it's not a grounding issue with the light assembly?
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Using stock springs will only allow about 3/4. Negative camber - thats all the more room there is unless you can bring out the bottom . The stock control arms are actually very strong, so dont under estimate the strength needed of the control arms. Like said before - Hybridz is a good source for info.
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Using plug welds was a matter of using what i had as far as equipment. The plug weld is effective for the fact it welds in the center of the metal overlap. The cleco's are fantastic because they CHEAP and a much easier way to hold panels without having to leave marks or gouges from welding clamps. I never looked back either-I am also from the aircraft industry.
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Using plug welds was a matter of using what i had as far as equipment. The plug weld is effective for the fact it welds in the center of the metal overlap. The cleco's are fantastic because they CHEAP and a much easier way to hold panels without having to leave marks or gouges from welding clamps. I never looked back either-I am also from the aircraft industry.
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Not only U-joints, you should check the condition of the spline and ball bearings. probably not using the proper terminology, but anyway, ... put the halfshaft body in a vise securely, then extend the inner shaft out and try and work it up and down. There should be no play, if there is, you need to find some better shafts. Someone might have a good method for checking U-jonts off the car.