madkaw

Is it me or is this section hard to read and use? There is no breaks between ads, or at least the breaks are not obvious. I don't know what to click on to see the ad, but sometimes I just get lucky. The OP is not easily defined because of the non-sectioned pages.

Wasn't one of the bigger issues with the dealer installed early units was the weak fan ? The fan was to weak to draw and circulate the cold air.

if your pressure reads high - pull your fuel sending unit from the tank, it might be clogged up

You guys are awesome! What the problem wind up being is that my antenna is a reproduction or a later year and the original bracket does not mount up with this antenna-(sorry Dave, but if I use the original broke one I will have the bracket thanks to you!) I managed to make a bracket to mount the antenna I have and got installed . Problem is the antenna worked twice and quit Also the replacement antenna I have seems to missing some kind of grommet. With the antenna installed i could see day light around the mast-water would pour in there. The OEM antenna is definetly built better. The pain with all this is that it is keeping me from finishing the interior install in the hatch area. I'm about ready to order a plain old antenna-non-retracting- and be done with it. Any suggestions??

Dave, thankyou for sending that bracket-but I still don't see how this antenna attaches. I can tune some triple Mikuni's , but this antenna is killing me! The thing that throws me off is the angle the antenna must have to sit at to utilize the stud. Also the offset that is needed to clear the interior plastic panel. Someone want to make it even more simple for me. I did google the pics on the antenna. The bracket for the 280z as shown above seems a better choose. The antenna that I have to put in the car looks identical to the original as far as mounting points, so I think I have the right antenna.

Guys, still following this thread-even if I'm a Mikuni guy- I have contacted mr. Franck and he responded. I have never been able to get into Sidedraft Central Yahoo group-which was mandatory if I was going to be part of this experiment. I have resorted to getting a Yahoo e-mail account to see if that helps. keith wrote me saying that I might benefit from the tubes if my car did not pass the F.I. test-you guys might have touched on this in this thread. I'd say I am border line in that aspect. I have been reading the last few posts and it sounds like I am where you are as far as a slight hesistation during hard tip-in at lower rpms. No coughing, sputtering, spitting-just a millisecond of hesistaion, so maybe i'm at a pretty good point. At higher RPMS, above 3500, there is no hesitation. I have tried quite a few things, but don't know if I have ever completely gotten rid of that slight studder. Other than that, these carbs have really been wonderful. I am going to put some fresh needle&seats in the floats so I know everything is good, and i am going to take to the dyno! This weekend I even played with valve timing to see if that would change anything concerning hard tip-in at lower rpms-it didn't. I did quite a swing on the cam timing and basically put it back where it was-slightly advanced. I have noticed watching my AFR's that WOT AFR is dictated by when hard tip-in occurs. If I stomp it at 2500rpm the AFR's look super rich for a while thru the rpms before getting to the 13 range. If I start out at a higher rpm the AFR's look much more optimum thru the remaing rpm range.

I see a ZX parked at the Napa truck repair place under the bridge-looks like someone is working towards a brake job.

I'd like to offer up help with providing hardware. I have parted out several Z's and have drawers of hardware. I have kept all the unique stuff and a lot I might never use. So drop me a line - I might have that specific bolt for your car.

Thanks guys-i just went out and found that stud. No wonder I didn't see it earlier, it is way foward of the antenna. I wll google to find the bracket.

I'm trying to install a power antenna on a 71. I can't figure out how the bottom of the antenna attaches to the car. I am missing the bracket, but I would make one if I had a clue how the antenna is positioned in the quarter panel. I have searched and found some pics of power antennas with the brackets attached, but still having a problem picturing how it is installed.

So I understand that the tranny shifted fine before putting the correct shifter in? After installing the correct shifter the problems occurred? I guess maybe I'm not understanding what was wrong with the original shifter that worked fine in reverse.

What kind of issues are you having with the drivetrain?

More stuff to look at when I get over there - besides the bumper!

Yep, I just posted this the other day. It only takes just less than a 1/2 turn on the diff mounting bolts to create a clunk. The ONLY way to tell is get a wrench out. I think folks like me that have had the diffs out on several occasions find that the STUDS are actually loosening causing the nut to be loose. Time to get the loctite red out and squirt those studs in place.

Okay, am I stupid or what, I can't figure out Sidedraft Central. I have tried creating an account and I keep getting caught up in a loop of trying to change or create my profile. I have never seen a forum like this and I feel a bit lost. It seems the page recognizes me on Sidedraft because I see the "hi Stephen", but I have no access. I don't have a Yahoo account per say, I registered with Google. What am I not seeing here?

I do have a wideband guage(innovate) installed already. Great investment for any carb guy. I find myself watching that guage more than any other in the car, so much that my oil pressure would drop to 0 and I wouldn't notice I have not attempted datalogging yet, so I need to get into the software aspect of this. I believe I already have logworks downloaded, I just never have used it. I will join sidedraft central and be glad to post my findings. I appreciate the oppurtunity to do this. I haven't had much time for tuning on my car lately since I have been trying to finish out a 71 for someone else. I was hoping in the near future to take my car to the dyno with the Mikuni's and compare to my SU's. It sounds like I need to do this before the get the hypojets installed for a direct comparison. My plate just got really full!!

I'll be a guinea pig!

Could be several things like head gasket or valve guides. Is the car running good or the same as before you noticed the smoke? How do the plugs look? Is the car overheating? You can always borrow a coolant pressure tester from autozone and do a pressure check on the system. The pressure should rise with a blown gasket.

I've heard of this done, but never have seen any finished products. Grinding down the float bowls would slick it up for sure. Love the innovation of the Z community!

Not to sound arrogant, but for me it is everyday I drive my car is a car show. Getting all the "thumbs up" and "nice car", and 'man that's SICK' is what it's about for me. I didn't build my car for show, but for me it was wanting to beable to say "I did that". And the most important part of saying- I did that- was the personal touch I put on my car to make it different than anyone elses car. I have only been to 2 Z car shows since my car was completed(never really done, but...) and it was all about the adventure of traveling there and hopefully meeting guys like you all there at the show. It's also about seeing things others have accomplished on their cars. I did win people's choice at the midwest Z show in Ohio, which was greatest trophy I could have won. It showed me that my personalized car did strike a chord with others in what we thought looked good on a Z as far as tastefull mods. It's a shame it was so freaking hot that it took away from the fun of hanging about the cars and telling war stories. As far as the judging-well at the midwest Z show it wasn't done all that great. I don't want to be critical becasue the judges were all voulenteers that had to work in the crazy heat. It was a lot of work to put on an event like that in that heat and the staff did a good job making sure everyone was as comfortable as possible. The biggest complaint I has was during their inspection the judging team left gas doors open on several early Z's and walked away. It was an easy way for damage to occur on these fragile cars. Next year the midwest show is in my back yard and I hope to help and maybe use some stuff I learned to make the show a success. More than anything I hope to make more friends in the Z community

I think it would be a lot of work and money and weight for little gain vs. just getting a EFI intake and committing to EFI. In the end I think the ECU would dictate the performance and I think it( aftermarket ECU) would make significant gains in tune and power. The idea is doable for sure, and I have thought of it myself, but in my case my triples are so nice I would assume selling them to pay for a true EFI set-up, maybe even true ITBs. Now if you had some junk triples laying around you want to junk, than sure. But I would think the reason they were junk is because the throttle shafts were worn more than anything and that's what you need. In my case, I just purchased a project off of ebay that someone started using a Cannon triple manifold mated to a homemade plenum . I will be weding EFI bungs to the manifold and go with a single throttle body. It seems the cheapest route and probably the easiest tunable set-up over ITBs

Not sure you want to go ahead with a turbo with this set-up. You started down the path of a NA set-up with your head and now your compression ratio will be high for a turbo engine. Shaving 74 thous. off the head and now turbocharging might not be a good idea. Not sure what octane of fuel you have over there which will have some bearing on this issue. A higher compression turbo build would be great, but it would be tricky to tune and get right without blowing up!!You would need to run a better ECU than stock. We all made comments regarding NA motors, but not turbocharging, so you might need to think again.

I thought stock compressed is .047, which is 125mm I believe. As far as an Ishino gasket, I'm not sure. When i removed my old HG, which I can't be certain, but I think it came from an old MSA kit, it measured right at .047 compressed. I wouldn't want to argue with Rebello either-I'm just a hack mechanic:0 I have searched the Hybridz pages for hours, especially on the squish issue. The numbers that I quoted came from a post deep inside a thread that 1fastz commented on about squish. HE acted asif he had devulged his best secret about these motors! But then you get into the argument about what standard deck height is on the flat-tops, and then numbers start flying around again. Braap chimed in saying that he measured countless blocks and the flat-tops averaged .019 above deck-so is this true? I guess every engine needs to be checked by someone with some good skills and mics.

A lot of numbers being thrown around here. As far as 1fastz , he actually says optimum clearance of piston head is more like .021-.025. This requires shaving the block and or mating the right HG size. 1fastz doesn't put all of his info because he's afraid of steering someone into precision they can't pull off. I'm running around .025-.027 I would just order a Nismo gasket and know what your getting- pricey-yes! I believe .040 is too much for an NA engine. Sounds like a good engine combo- good luck

A lot of numbers being thrown around here. As far as 1fastz , he actually says optimum clearance of piston head is more like .021-.025. This requires shaving the block and or mating the right HG size. 1fastz doesn't put all of his info because he's afraid of steering someone into precision they can't pull off. I'm running around .025-.027 I would just order a Nismo gasket and know what your getting- pricey-yes! I believe .040 is too much for an NA engine. Sounds like a good engine combo- good luck