Everything posted by madkaw
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Which clutch should I buy? Brand? Stage?
Exedy clutches are good and you can buy them all day for 100.00
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Idle Speed and Engine Performance
Better start from ground zero. Set the engine to TDC compression and remove dizzy and check alignment of shaft and alignment of rotor. You might be off a tooth and the way advanced timing was to make up from there. You never know what the PO has done with this car and don't take anything for granted.
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That's my 1970 for sale...
Good luck on the sale. I have been studying the eBay sales since I will be marketing a 71 in the near future. What I have seen is that there is no ryme or reason to what these cars bring on a given day. The values seem to be based on purely personal taste of the buyers. Then there's te question of how much do you fix or not fix, to make it presentable.
- 240 runs out of power under load, i.e. going up hills
- 240 runs out of power under load, i.e. going up hills
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Idle Speed and Engine Performance
Okay, so you said you checked the carb tune and it was good-can you explain what or how you tuned or synched the carbs?It seems to me a carb tune issue. What experience do you have with SU's and what experience does the "shop "have? Did you check the synch at 3000 rpm?
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240 runs out of power under load, i.e. going up hills
Not sure why you started a poll for this issue. It helps us diagnose issues with a detailed history of any engine work or engine status; I.e. Any recent work done? Did this issue just start recently? Did you make sure that your coil and dizzy are impedance matched? Why an electric pump and a mechanical? What kind of carbs? Engine rebuilt? Compression check?
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My Engine Build
Black looks good on an engine and I did the por-15 paint-no regrets-EXCEPT, when you have any oil leaks, it's much harder to see them or where they originate with a black engine. But you won't have any leaks;) Looking good!
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Idle Speed and Engine Performance
Sure sounds like you are fighting a vacuum leak- maybe your brake booster which would tie the brakes into all of this. Check your banjo bolts as suggested above Don't drive the car until you have the brakes figured out- that's a bad scenario ! Disconnect your vacuum line from the balance tube that goes to your brake and note any changes. What's your timing doing at idle and full advance.? Condition of battery? Is your battery receiving full charging voltage ?
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E 30 cam? E88 head? anybody have any info on these?
You need to define ' not running good'. Any other history on the motor will help
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replaced head gasket now it does not start!
Not sounding good. A compression test will tell you if you have damage. Just because there is no noise now doesn't mean you escaped damage- you might have just clearanced your valves with your pistons
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Tuning 40 DCOE Weber 151 on an L24
Good luck getting racing carbs to act like FI! In no way am I being sarcastic , it's just the way I am looking at my triples. Not sure you can get racing carbs tuned well enough to stomp on them at. 2krpm and think they will react the same as stomping on them at 4krpm. At 2krpm there is probably too much fuel for your engine to swallow- thus hesitation. Then your AFRs look way off while the motor is trying to burn off all that fuel. Thankfully you enjoy tinkering, because it will take a ton of it!!!
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Triple Weber fuel pump switch-a roo
My RX-7 pump puts out over 3psi easy. I am also running fuel via dead head method . I am suprised you aren't getting more---especially with the engine not running
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Original Engines vs Aftermarket - Thoughts & Opinions
Gotta have a L6 in it. For me--I would build a turbo Z to fullfill my HP needs. Though I have nothing against someone doing the LS1 version, I would rather pop my hood open to a beautifully polished out L6.
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Rough starting - spits, sputters, backfires, but then runs great
Not a FI guy, but sure sounds like the cold start valve, especially if the engine does better when warm. Of course that is probably all tied into the other switches you mentioned. Google EFI BIBLE, might be helpful. Should be some simple OHM tests for testing those switches also- check your FSM
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replaced head gasket now it does not start!
Did you try moving the dizzy while starting ? Try a big change by turning the dizzy to see if you are possibly off one link. If it tries to start or runs, but poorly, then you probably are not lined up right.
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My first Z!
Let me guess one of the reasons you are glad you kept this car- all the attention the car gets !
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my first 1971 project 240Z
Those engines are tough and can sit for a long time and come back to life-too bad the bodies don't fare as well. Welcome here and good luck.
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Help! 240z suddenly lost power
Good time to uPgrade to electronic ignition. Do yourself a favor an get a pertronix setup or a zx dizzy Good luck on the fix side of your troubleshooting
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Help! 240z suddenly lost power
5th opinion- ignition Check everything for tightness- plug wires, wire leads Check the cap for cracks Look at your points- you might have lost a contact pad Check for a big vacuum leak also Check fuel filter for clogging
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Carpet kits
Might be the same -I don't know. But they offered the loop cut and the kit looks pretty good. I bought one of the ACC kits for a 81 and it worked out well.
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Oddessey
Jerry , Whenever you get the car back to Indiana I would like to drive up to Richmond to see it. It looks amazing, looks like Les made you a pretty car
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DIY: How to Recover Your Z Seats - LOTS OF PICTURES
I noticed the prices you put on there- 310$ for the pair of cushions!! Classic Datsuns web site shows 405$ for the set of covers and cushions- so I guess that's not up to date?
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Triple Weber fuel pump switch-a roo
Welcome to the rx7 pump club. Have the same pump in my car- very quiet. So quiet I left the ignition on all night with the pump running- still going strong
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CAI for triple Mikunis