madkaw

I noticed the prices you put on there- 310$ for the pair of cushions!! Classic Datsuns web site shows 405$ for the set of covers and cushions- so I guess that's not up to date?

Welcome to the rx7 pump club. Have the same pump in my car- very quiet. So quiet I left the ignition on all night with the pump running- still going strong

I just realized that I never updated any pics of my Mikuni CAI

No doubt-just another way to wire it.

I don't know if I would need to smoke the pipe to pay close to the asking price. I have been watching the 'market' intently here lately to figure how to market the 71 I am redoing now. A really well preserved early model will fetch over 10k and will need something done to it. That something always involves money-and usually something is called minor, but means suspension work, or interior work,etc... Now to the perspective of the do-it yourselfer, this car might seem high priced, but for the guy who wants to turn key and go and only wants to perform regular maintenance, than the price isn't bad--IIIIFFFFFFF-the personalization of the car is something the buyer likes. Let's also eliminate the fact that it is a dealer. Yes he probably has room to wiggle, and hell yes I would wiggle all I could. So it's a Z person that poured his heart and soul into this car and no stone is left unturned, than I can see the value(not setting any general market values) being close to 15k--IMHO

No willingness to part with anyones money. IF I was in the market for one of these cars and IF I really likedt the way this car looked and really wanted it-would it be worth the asking price from what I can see via the internet. I'd say a 260z done that well-regardless of the personalization is worth that kind of money. I would think we all hope the cars are worth that money:)

E-30 is about right for an early e-88. As far as being a BIG cam-only some mics could show that. That cam could have been reground into a performer. As far feeling power, the butt dyno is decieving and if it's not dialed in right, it's might be worse. Oil, you don't need to run 20/50w. Will it hurt anything-probably not. 10/40 is plenty good, and synthetic is a plus.

Hell, I know you can't get out of a car what you have in, but I would think 15K would be very reasonable for that car. If there is nothing lurking underneath and it ran good, I would jump on it if I was in the market. There's 20k in that car-easily.

Sorry I didn't elaborate on my post, but you can modify what the shop did with your car, and still be somewhat stock. The switch I installed used the 2 wires that are behind your radio. With the switch you have the option to have key on wothout your pump running. You should have the green and black wires by the tank right nect to the fuel sending unit wires. That wire is 14 guage and can handle about any pump. Whatever wire the shop used to run to the backof the car- off of the relay- could be wired into the existing green wire under the glove box. This way you have a relay hooked to the stock wire running to the pump. Not sure if I would be using a 30 amp relay-how big is your pump? I think I am running a 15 amp fuse for my pump.

I've also had similiar issue. My issues amount to a worn out combo switch-which is probably half the problems out there. The contacts get dirty and the mechanisms get worn and viola, your turn signals don't work properly. I have cobbled three different combo switchs to get one good working assembly. I need to send mine to Dave(z-on the brain) for an overhaul-if he still does that.

It seems odd to me that it doesn't slip during the "burn out's" or whatever below 4000. You would think the ample torque at those rpms would also be enoug to slip it. But I agree with above statements, I would think the L24 stock clutch would be enough to hold your motor. Having the larger flywheel and clutch, I have noticed my clutch is much stiffer than a stock clutch.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread45836-2.html post 45

Go as low az you want, you'll have an OD for the highway and still get decent MPG. it might make 1st gear a little more useless, but these engines are capable of rpms, so why not use them. 3.54 's with my t-5 in OD was about ridiculous unless you wanted to cruise at 85 or more. Also, with anything other than stock exhaust that has any drone at 2200-2500rpm - you will be in the drone zone at cruise.

Problem solved as far as low AFR's ? Yes the tendency is to under rpm these engines- but I'm getting over that;) Mikunis like all carbs are a compromise , and I think the triples are the compromise towards a racing set up.

Well in Indiana we had a big weather change- cooled off dramatically and humidity dropped off. So I'm expecting a change in my AFR's to reflect this, but I didn't expect to go pig rich. So I'm figuring I have something wrong- maybe a stuck float ? This is based on the assumption that I am correct on air density in relation to fuel/air mixtures. I am also assuming any single issue with one carb will drive the AFR's askew.

I wanted to close out this thread on a good note. Les did come thru in the end and refunded me for the flares. I have no ill will towards Les and it's a shame this went on like it did. Maybe my case was just a bump in the road and I hope Datsun vendors like Les can stay in business to help support our hobby.

Sounds good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I posted on Hybridz about driving a Rousch Mustang and how I was unimpressed - it's all about the DRIVING experience. The mustang was fast, loud, comfy, and unconnected to the road. I have owned several subarus and they are more connected than most cars. My 1996 impreza handles amazing for a worn out beater. Still feel connected with this car

Good info! I thought about that after I posted - glad you clarified that. Vinyl it helps to get things warm for sure.

Great write up and I will add something if you don't mind. I didn't read it, and if I missed it I apologize . You want to get the material warm, like laying it out in the sun for an hour or so and then start your stretching the material over the seats. I remember doing mine inside in the winter and hanging the vinyl in front of the fireplace to warm the covers up. It will stretch easier with less chance of anytearing and be easier on the hands.

When I dynoed my L24 with the SU's with SM needles -at WOT I was in the 12's. The owner/racer/engine builder/dyno operator thought that my AFR's were too rich at WOT. For NA, his opinion was low 13's were best for HP. He thought I was loosing around 10 HP because of excessive fuel. It's obvious that your engine likes it on top, I would move the main airs in that direction. I think when you start getting as close as you are on the tuning, only a dyno will get you that 5% you are looking for. Then you factor in the weather that day-high humidity=less air= richer AFRs, carbs are a compromise.

Good point!

What have you tried? Looks like you could come down one size on the main and maybe up one size on the main air. What happens with AFR's if you don't let the the rpms get below 3500 in third before you go WOT. I have noticed that my AFR's go rich when at WOT starting at a lower rpm. Another words you are combining pilot and main for a while and it drives the AFR's rich. I would also offer up jets. We should get us Mikuni guys together to have an exchange program for all these jets. What's crazy is that my jetting is close to yours and some jets are bigger, and I am running the L24. Just goes to show that these engines all run under different parameters!

I got an old friend back to finish and market. Putting in an interior and finishing up loose ends. Haven't even had time to take for a spin-but I will soon:)