madkaw

My money is on the starter shorting

My intention for starting this was to give someone on these forums a way to connect up or satisfy their curosity of 'who owns that Z'. You could point out every Z you see, but do you really have an interest in every Z(350,370,280zx,...). Let's face it, I barely notice a 350z, but if I see a first series close to my town, I NOTICE.

Well Arne is ahead on points.

I'm thinking this game is tougher than I thought

Well I am still playing with jetting, which is fun until you start messing with the accelerator pump settings on the rod-PITA I have had best results by jacking up the car and working from underneath-still a PITA I have found the ultimate tool when messing with these carbs, the FORCEPS. Go get some cheap ones from Harbor freight and never drop anything again. I did do something different today, i ran without my cold air box. I have started from day one with it, so I have never experienced the Mikuni's non-muffled! The cold air box does quiet down the induction noise considerably, and I found that out today. I can see the lure of these triples with just filters, very nice sound!!

Outstanding progress in a short period of time. Your friends advice is good, I would just sand or scotch brite the engine bay and get it really clean and on to primer. How do you like the mighty L24 ? The e-12 dizzy works well with that engine- give it plenty of advance and disconnect the vacuum advance!!! Nice work

Search custom battery cables on the forum- good alternative for battery cables that fit right and never have a problem with

Brakes and suspension #1 I can only speak for Arizona Z Wildwood brakes-excellent quality and no regrets. Remember, fancy suspension upgrades including coil overs will cause additional road noise-sometimes a lot. Nice pair of shocks and springs, urethane bushings everywhere will make for a great handling/safe car for part time track use. In my opinion doing the brakes and suspension right the first time and doing them first is a good way to go because it's a lot of work and you don't won't to do it twice. Engine mods are a bit quicker and easier and less down time, so do them later. Doing the suspension and brakes right will hold up to any power level you want to progress too. Many guys go right for the power and can't stop the car with what they have-not good. Good luck and welcome. Tell us more about your car

Hey Nate, that's the way to play the game! I'm planning on doing coffee and cars on the 25th at Meridian and 465-maybe we can make a good showing for the Z cars! Putting the location in the subject line makes this fast and easy, especially since it is in bold. Hopefully this will help us make connections and get the "lurkers" to come out

Cmon guys- follow the rules- the name of the town in the subject line

Now to make this game easier you should "go advanced" on your response and put the town in the subject line. This way folks can scan easily thru the thread to find someone in their town.

I spyed a white Z , maybe a 280z with a hood scoop coming out of walmart on August 10. Might have been a 2+2

Remember the game I spy? Well I thought I would start a Z version! This game might work or might not, but there should be some winners! Anyway, how many times have you seen a Z close to where you live or somewhere you frequent? I know I have and wondered what their story is or if they are members here. So if we had a thread going that stated when and where you saw the Z and some kind of description, maybe there can be some awareness of fellow Z'ers in your area. I'll go first

Well if anyone has seen or heard from Les, let me know. He recieved my ZG flares over a week ago( fed-ex signed delivery) so I could get a refund and move on with this issue -never have heard a word. I sent a e-mail to inquire-no response. Sent PM-no response

I'm Always learning something on these sites:) I will note that the early Z's with the balance tube put the PCV in an angle to put the weight of the "ball" towards the closed position-in essance a spring

I'm with Leon, there's no vacuum so the PCV is staying closed. Of all the PCV's I have seen, I have never seen one where it is partially open-but not saying there aren't ones that do operate that way. Most of the ones I have taken off of our cars there was no spring at all, just a free moving ball! To the OP, why are you ready for a new motor, your not sure what the issue is. Go down to Autozone and borrow there coolant pressure tester and see if you have pressure building in your engine, then go from there.

Carl, what you consider presentable? It looks like I will be helping Jim sell this car. I will be bringing it back to my house to detail out and finish out as much as possible. As far as the engine compartment, the paint on the block is pretty bad, but not sure if it is worth it $$ to pull the motor to paint everything up. Not sure what the perspective of a buyer would be when seeing a painted engine that has NOT been rebuilt. Not much money involved in painting the engine, just a lot of labor.I guess my point here is, I don't want to present the engine in a way that people think I am putting lipstick on a pig. I guess it will all depend on the buyers intention, like you said Carl-in the blank canvas the buyer might not care about the engine appearance. The owner said there might be a possible throw-out bearing noise, so I might want to pull the motor anyway to fix this issue-then painting the engine will be easy .

Well it didn't take too much to get the main fuel jet in check. I was suprised about how much change I saw dropping from 160 to 150 on the main. I went from running high 11's to 14's with the 150 jets. So I popped in some 155's I had and that seem to do the trick. Much closer to low 13's and high 12's. Now I anxiously await my new pilots. Maybe I'll make a video today, the car is running awesome!!

Jon, when I'm talking transition, I'm talking a slow transition, nothing to do with the accelerator pump. I can watch the AFR's jump around the 16 range when I get around the magic rpm of 3000 - while slowly increasing speed. It's not just the gauge, you can hear and feel the engine surging from lack of fuel. I will use the spark plugs with the O2 to let me know whats going on as far as mixture.

Yes , the fuel rail return side is a metered orifice, I would replace it. Time to take a look at the floats , I would think the needle and seat would hold 4psi. It might be a combination of the two items.

This is where I'm at on the Mikunis . Too small on the pilots make for a weak transition . If you richen up a small pilot to make transition better, you wind up with a rich idle. Pilots are on order

Well he obviously was clueless for even using a wrench putting it on- good luck getting it off!!

Leads all tight on the dizzy? Coil is matched impedance with the points? Positive it's not fuel related?

I put a hole behind the heater panel the size of the large plugs that are used for the AC holes. It is a pain that there is no small end or disconnects for the sensor. I would check before cutting any of the wires. It's always something isn't it? It's also a pain that the wires have to be twisted to put the sensor in. Don't forget to calibrate

Well I finally got a new O2 sensor installed!!!!!!!!! Now I know what happening with my AFR's at WOT-too rich! I'm dipping below 12 , maybe to 11.5 -so it's time to back off on the main jets. Transition is still lean and I will be ordering bigger pilots.The AFRS bounce around 16+ in the dead spot. So if you blow a headgasket, you will be replacing your sensor. I guess the coolant destroys the sensor.