madkaw

OOPS double post I know I'm not a Weber guy, but I will agree with the great gain in lower end. Of course this is probably subject to the cam each of us are running. With my Mikuni's I kept pushing the envelope of the pilot side by seeing how rich I could get it. When I thought I was putting too much emphasis on the pilots and tried making corrections elsewhere, I would still be fighting the 'dead spot'. I started with 200 main airs and ended up with 180's. Started with 57.5 pilots and ended up with 67.5's. Had 40's acc.pumps and went back to 47's. In MY CASE, my motor wanted it down low. My engine pulls hard right from 1500rpm straight thru to 6000rpm. Only on a dyno will I know for sure what the number look like. I am idling anywhere from 12 to 13, and cruise is around 14 AFR. As I have read before, they like to run rich. Thus the advantage of EFI, nice lean idle and cruise, then dial in the power zone. Makes me want ITB's even more.

I spyed a zx on Walnut ST , and it was purple!

I should have closed up the windows more, too much wind noise. Thanks Leon, one of these days I will do an outside version.

http://youtu.be/NGh6urUlzcQ For true listening pleasure--turn it UP!

Not sure how I wanted to comment on this issue, so I have procrastinated . After putting 300 miles on my car this last weekend I have decided that the L6 has to been in the car to remain a Z. I have had a lot of nice cars, but the Z motor is the best sounding engine by far of all of them and makes the Z car what it is. As far as body mods, as long as the original lines are not altered -maybe just extenuated ( i.e. Spoiler, airdam) . The classic lines are to nice to alter.

Make sure your needles are not bent by rolling them on a glass table. I always ran the needles flush with the bottom of the groove, but either way you can adjust out with mixture screws. Just set them flush and do the drop test to test for binding!

Now according to the ' I Spy' rule book, page 3, that would be considered cheating since a spy can not be preplanned. Sorry Jeff.

Have you checked the flux capacitor yet?

Overheating + not charging= loose belt I am also very confused here, you have 2 260's and one that doesn't have a clutch on the fan? You might want to be clearer to get good help

Jeff, I know you are very excited , but you will not be given any points since you forgot to put the location in the subject line. Not to worry, maybe you will see another one in a couple if months , or years or...

I wouldn't be suprised if even your cheapo Chilton manual wouldn't have a test for the TPS. It should just be an OHM test. Blue is giving you a good start.

Could you PLEASE use some puncuation so we can breathe between sentences. Not trying to be the english teacher you hated, but using text style posting doesn't go well here. Most folks won't have the patience to try and help you because they gave up reading your posts. Doubt it's vacuum or mechanical in nature. I'd say electrical gremlins or you still have fuel issues.

You could run +35 offset then run 35mm wheel spacers.

Yea, what he said

It might mean that the amp is internally grounding and causing a drain. In my case the amp was junk and I took it out. I was running a sub/amp and for some reason it was grounding. You could have a bare wire somewhere, but I think that would blow the fuse. If the power is turned off on the amp and you hook it up and it cause a spark, then somethings wrong.

DING DING DING we have a winner. After market stereo wouldnt have a sub or separate power amp? If so - disconnect and try the battery test for spark. I have personally had an amp shorting to ground and still worked, but played havoc with all my electrical stuff

Does the battery leads spark when connecting them? If so, methodically pull fuses one at a time until connecting the battery does not create a spark. Then you have narrowed the system down of the drain.

Simple test is rotate front to rear and eliminate tires and wheels

Noises carry on these cars badly. Did you make sure the gland nut screwed down hard against the strut? Sometimes the supplied nuts are quite right and the threads bottom out before securing the strut . I had to use a washer on top of the strut to shim the gland nut. Get your wrenches out and check torque on everything under your car Good luck

Looks like I might have to revise the rules of the game and BAN all posters from CA. I see an unfair advantage for you west coasters. Spotting Z's for you guys is like the Midwesters playing I spy a cornstalk

My money is on the starter shorting

My intention for starting this was to give someone on these forums a way to connect up or satisfy their curosity of 'who owns that Z'. You could point out every Z you see, but do you really have an interest in every Z(350,370,280zx,...). Let's face it, I barely notice a 350z, but if I see a first series close to my town, I NOTICE.

Well Arne is ahead on points.

I'm thinking this game is tougher than I thought

Well I am still playing with jetting, which is fun until you start messing with the accelerator pump settings on the rod-PITA I have had best results by jacking up the car and working from underneath-still a PITA I have found the ultimate tool when messing with these carbs, the FORCEPS. Go get some cheap ones from Harbor freight and never drop anything again. I did do something different today, i ran without my cold air box. I have started from day one with it, so I have never experienced the Mikuni's non-muffled! The cold air box does quiet down the induction noise considerably, and I found that out today. I can see the lure of these triples with just filters, very nice sound!!